Builds Project Snowball ❄️ 85 FJ60 Cummins 4BT/ HX-30 SUPER/ NV4500/ SOA (1 Viewer)

[Hojack]

If you haven't done a front main seal on a cummins before here are some tips:

Use the metal driver ring included to pound on and set the seal depth in the gear cover. Leave the plastic inner collar in the seal and use it as a guide to slide the cover with seal onto the crankshaft, then pull out the plastic collar once the seal is on the crankshaft surface. Make sure the crankshaft surface is clean of all oil and dry when installing. The main seal should not be lubricated for install, it goes on dry.

Seeing the folded lip on the seal you pulled out I bet that plastic collar probably wasn't used to keep the seal expanded to go over the crankshaft surface which is probably why it folded.

So Jeremy had issues starting in back in June. He pulled the front timing cover off to check the gears for timing and reinstalled installed the cover with the same gasket and seal without the plastic sleeve. Turned out it was the VE pump that he pulled without locking the pump and the pump was off.
I’ve watched a YouTube video on the gasket and seal install. The diesel mechanic says to use Loctite 545 on the outside metal lip of the seal. I can’t find this local. Any other options?

 

[Hojack]

Thanks Mike
I watched this last night.

 

[boots4]

Sampled a couple spots on the video and it looked thorough. I'm trying to remember if the seals I've used had any coating on the outside of the metal cage that basically acts as a sealant like the locktite 545 he was talking about in the video. Regardless I have not used any additional thread sealant on my seal installs and have never had any oil leaking around the metal cage of the seal, mine's been fine without it. That messed up lip on the seal it obviously where it was leaking.

 

[Hojack]

Yeah right when I pulled the cover I spotted that...

 

[boots4]

@GLTHFJ60

When driving Snowball during the last session we are noticing that shifting feels labored and that the clutch doesn't fully disengage from time to time. Any issues you worked out on your set up before (NV4500)? Any advice? Things to look at?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Haven't ever had any issues. What master/slave setup is being run?

Off the top of my head, clutch disk installed backwards (not likely, would cause other problems), throwout bearing installed improperly, improper master/slave cylinder config causing insufficient throw, pedal adjusted improperly etc.

 

[Hojack]

Haven't ever had any issues. What master/slave setup is being run?

Off the top of my head, clutch disk installed backwards (not likely, would cause other problems), throwout bearing installed improperly, improper master/slave cylinder config causing insufficient throw, pedal adjusted improperly etc.

Hard to get in reverse is number one.
Hard to describe the second, but when driving I was downshifting and the motor lugged like it was stuck in gear. Best I can describe.
There is a great transmission shop locally. I was going to take it there but need to take care of this front timing cover first.

 

[Hojack]

Haven't ever had any issues. What master/slave setup is being run?

Off the top of my head, clutch disk installed backwards (not likely, would cause other problems), throwout bearing installed improperly, improper master/slave cylinder config causing insufficient throw, pedal adjusted improperly etc.

The master and slave he purchased through Napa. I’ll have to look through my receipts.

 

[cruisermatt]

What are your master and slave off of?
The transmission not coming out gear sounds more like a transmission issue then a clutch issue to me.
Does it happen in all gears or just specific ones?

 

[GLTHFJ60]

If clutch doesn't fully disengage, and you're under a load (accel or decel), it will not shift out of gear. I know this for sure. If your clutch hydraulics go out, you can't shift unless you rev-match your speed.

 

[Hojack]

What are your master and slave off of?

They are new and purchased from Napa.
My buddy Brian thinks there could be air trapped in the line which happened to him. I was just talking to him on the phone. He’s a diesel mechanic for Tri-met. He said he’d come help me out. Talked to Transmedic transmission shop and if it doesn’t go into reverse with the engine off it’s a transmission issue. One thing at a time and we’ll work on the clutch stuff first. Press clutch with engine off and still won’t go it. It seems to go in best when engine is running and sitting in neutral, press clutch and go into second and then neutral again bump the throttle twice and drops into reverse.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Slow down and understand what Matt and I are asking. What vehicle did your master and slave cylinders originally come from? Ford pickup? Chevy pickup? Nissan Versa? Part numbers?

Air in the lines could cause insufficient throw, which is why it's important to know what master and slave you have. There are a few combinations that work that don't have a bleed screw at either cylinder (I have such a pair), making bleeding very difficult.

 

[Hojack]

Slow down and understand what Matt and I are asking. What vehicle did your master and slave cylinders originally come from? Ford pickup? Chevy pickup? Nissan Versa? Part numbers?

Air in the lines could cause insufficient throw, which is why it's important to know what master and slave you have. There are a few combinations that work that don't have a bleed screw at either cylinder (I have such a pair), making bleeding very difficult.

They were purchased new. Same setup Jeremy got for his 6BT.
To check for sure I’d need to get receipt and then call Napa to make sure they are for the 4/6BT.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

@boots4 can you help translate? The question isn't getting through.

 

[Hojack]

@boots4 can you help translate? The question isn't getting through.

This what Jeremy sent me
Its a factory bled and filled unit. It was for that yr of nv4500 94-96 if i remember correctly

 

[boots4]

Johnny, Jason did not do the work on those parts so he is having to track down information to try and answer your question. His buddy Jeremy did.

Jason, so what vehicle did Jeremy use as an application for the parts counter jockey when he picked these up from Napa? Were the parts for a 94-96 Dodge XXXX with a 6bt/5.9? Can you fill in the X's? Or did this NV4500 come from a Chevy truck? If you find your receipt can you list the part numbers is has on it?

That would be great if all it needed was to be bled (I'm assuming it can be bled). Guess we'll know more when we get some part numbers.

 

[Hojack]

Johnny, Jason did not do the work on those parts so he is having to track down information to try and answer your question. His buddy Jeremy did.

Jason, so what vehicle did Jeremy use as an application for the parts counter jockey when he picked these up from Napa? Were the parts for a 94-96 Dodge XXXX with a 6bt/5.9? Can you fill in the X's? Or did this NV4500 come from a Chevy truck? If you find your receipt can you list the part numbers is has on it?

That would be great if all it needed was to be bled (I'm assuming it can be bled). Guess we'll know more when we get some part numbers.

It’s a dodge NV4500

 

[cruisermatt]

Slow down and understand what Matt and I are asking. What vehicle did your master and slave cylinders originally come from? Ford pickup? Chevy pickup? Nissan Versa? Part numbers?

Air in the lines could cause insufficient throw, which is why it's important to know what master and slave you have. There are a few combinations that work that don't have a bleed screw at either cylinder (I have such a pair), making bleeding very difficult.

The reason I think it could be transmission is that with most manual transmissions it is usually not too hard to put the transmission in neutral from a forwards gear with moderate pressure on the shifter without touching the touch. Not so much on deceleration in gear as you said though.
It could certainly be clutch hydraulics as well though. That’s definitely the easiest thing to check first.

 

[Hojack]

The reason I think it could be transmission is that most manual transmissions it is usually not too hard to put the transmission in neutral with moderate pressure on the shifter.
It could certainly be clutch hydraulics as well though. That’s definitely the easiest thing to check first.

That’s where I’m going to start. All gears shift good but when down shifting that’s when the lug temporarily happens.
It’s not hard to get into neutral.
I checked the shifting out earlier with my buddy Brian in the phone. Went out and went through gears 1-4 with engine off and no clutch. Went in fine. Would not go into 5th or reverse. Tried next with clutch and 1-5 went in fine. Can’t get in reverse. Tried again without clutch and could go into 1-5 now but still not reverse.

 

[cruisermatt]

You know reverse isn’t synchronized on all NV4500’s right?
I wouldn’t be concerned with how how it shifts with the motor off. Mine doesn’t really like to go into reverse with the motor off either.