Builds Helga: 1966 FJ40 FST (3 Viewers)

[tucker74]

I’ve read CLR, citric acid, and vinegar are all options. Do some searching ... you’re also going to need to pull the block plug and dig crud out there to clear ...

tucker

 

[KennyBob]

Thanks Tucker. I’ve read pretty much the same. Apparently leaving some of that stuff in there too long can eat away aluminum among other things. Are you referring to the freeze plugs or something else on the block? I’m not familiar.

 

[tucker74]

There is a threaded drain plug on the lower DS side of the block, towards the rear. Pull the plug and you will see the same crud, ream it out with a drill bit and hopefully it’s clear behind. This is your lower block flush point -

 

[KennyBob]

Both versions should work, the only big difference will be height of upper housing and the top hose to radiator.

Get a new water pump or yours rebuilt once you get the cooling system cleaned. Not worth hoping old water pump will work correctly.

So to clarify, the top and bottom thermostat housing will bolt up to the early (135) F motor? The only difference is the radiator hose between it and the radiator?

 

[whitey45]

Look what I found today!

 

[KennyBob]

Look what I found today!

View attachment 2652219

Woot!!! There is a cruiser god!

 

[whitey45]

Sending it your way!

 

[tahoe40/45]

Here is what im talking about. Newer style top housing is shorter. Ignore the hose above the bypass hose. You will want a 58 to 67 top and bottom ( tall) or a 68 to 74 top and bottom.

 

[KennyBob]

Here is what im talking about. Newer style top housing is shorter. Ignore the hose above the bypass hose. You will want a 58 to 67 top and bottom ( tall) or a 68 to 74 top and bottom.
View attachment 2652300View attachment 2652301

Thanks Tahoe. That makes sense. I believe I have the later radiator hoses actually. Thanks again to @Goforth.

So now I need to find the housings. I’m assuming the thermostat and associated gaskets will work with either housing, correct?

Unless of course it’s easier or cheaper to try to find an early, tall housing top.

 

[KennyBob]

While I wait for more funding to appear, I should return my attention to installing the parts I’ve already purchased.

So, while I was rebuilding the clutch and brake master cylinders I decided to rebuild the clutch slave cylinder. Unfortunately, it was a no-go due to the piston being seized in the cylinder. Any suggestions on freeing that SOB?

I don’t have immediate access to shop air and I’ve already tried pushing it out with hydraulic pressure, no dice.

 

[hdjtachtig]

I had luck in the past with the grease pump connected to the hydraulic connection. I was lucky it had the same thread.
And you can try heat and pressure.

 

[KennyBob]

Not sure why I didn’t think of heat.

 

[whitey45]

Not sure its worth the headache!

 

[KennyBob]

You aren’t wrong. If I can’t get it after another college try, I’ll buy a new one.

 

[Chuckha62]

Have you bled your clutch after the Master Cyl. rebuild yet? If not, don't throw away any of the parts until you're sure it's working properly. When I did my '66, I had a helluva time getting the pedal to come back up. Turns out that the spring behind the piston, while appearing correct, didn't have the correct spring rate. I reinstalled the original spring and everything was copacetic.

 

[KennyBob]

I suppose I haven’t bled the master yet. It should just be a matter of running a hose into the reservoir and pumping right? My master definitely returns but I also have the pedal spring hooked back up already.

 

[KennyBob]

While I’m thinking about it, I figured I should put a list here of things I know I’m missing and will be needing at some point to get this thing complete, or at least driving. In case someone has them or knows someone or somewhere that has them. Some of these items would be obviously just nice to have and not necessary. Here goes:

Rear seats
Seat belts
Roll bar
Top (soft or hard)
Doors
Wiper motors, arms, blades
Rear view mirror (windshield)
Bumpers and brackets
Visors
Door straps
OEM wheels
Thermostat housing

 

[HelloKitty65]

Not sure if you are looking for period correctness, but here are some observations which might be accurate. I am a proven source of misinfornation.


Rear seats
Seat belts If rear, don't think they had them yet.
Roll bar. Didn't have the them yet.
Top (soft or hard) Real Steel bows copy the OEM design, and will work for you. I am going to see if a corrugated hard top fits my FST. Don't know yet.
Rear view mirror (windshield) Spendy little part. See my "No Name" '65 thread.
Bumpers and brackets Toyota still has these.
Visors City Racer has Toyota ones at a fair price
Door straps The safety ones? Reproductions are well done.
OEM wheels. Toyota has them. They should be black.

 

[KennyBob]

Not sure if you are looking for period correctness, but here are some observations which might be accurate. I am a proven source of misinfornation.


Rear seats
Seat belts If rear, don't think they had them yet.
Roll bar. Didn't have the them yet.
Top (soft or hard) Real Steel bows copy the OEM design, and will work for you. I am going to see if a corrugated hard top fits my FST. Don't know yet.
Rear view mirror (windshield) Spendy little part. See my "No Name" '65 thread.
Bumpers and brackets Toyota still has these.
Visors City Racer has Toyota ones at a fair price
Door straps The safety ones? Reproductions are well done.
OEM wheels. Toyota has them. They should be black.

Thanks for the reply! I’m certainly not trying to let period correctness stop me from enjoying it. I will definitely try to do what I can where I can though.

Didn't know rear seatbelts weren’t a thing. Would want them anyway if the kids ever want to ride in it.

Knew the roll bars weren’t in them back then. Would want one for safety if nothing else. Was thinking the metal tech one would do the trick.

I’ve seen those bows. Spendy things as well, but I’m sure they’re worth the coin. Same with the reproduction soft tops.

Yeah those damn mirrors are ridiculous. I’ve been formulating a plan to use the later cheaper one but I need to see if it’ll work. Have the mirror but need the base plate.

Good to know. I do need the front oem brackets (need to figure out the part numbers) but I was thinking HFS or similar would be just fine if not ideal for the front. Rear bumperettes are lower on the list but there.

Who makes the safety straps? I’ve seen them around but forgotten who makes them. They are low down on the list too. Would be cool just because.

I think I’ve seen them around. Would like to keep cost down by trying to find some used ones if possible.

 

[nuclearlemon]

OEM design, and will work for you. I am going to see if a corrugated hard top fits my FST. Don't know yet.

the only spot you may have an issue putting a hardtop on an fst will be the windshield frame. the channel for the soft top will be in the way.