Project - Not so Nice (3 Viewers)

[S4Cruiser]

Sexy trailer Jon! Bounce could just mean that your hitch is too high.

Thanks! I thought the same but it's almost perfectly level. I don't think I could get it anymore level. We'll see how it pulls loaded and then go from there.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

FWIW, I thought that your old trailer bounced more than Ramon's 12k trailer (given the same length), but his still bounces when it's empty. Not much, but when going over a bump at speed, there's a definite bounce there. I'm sure loaded it'll be fine!

Can you post up a few close-up shots of the flip-down ramps? Looking specifically for the hold-down bars and springs.

 

[S4Cruiser]

FWIW, I thought that your old trailer bounced more than Ramon's 12k trailer (given the same length), but his still bounces when it's empty. Not much, but when going over a bump at speed, there's a definite bounce there. I'm sure loaded it'll be fine!

Can you post up a few close-up shots of the flip-down ramps? Looking specifically for the hold-down bars and springs.

Yep...give me 10 minutes.

Also...
Next up is to lose the chincy factory hitch for one that should've come on it stock from the factory.

Anyone have a specific preference? Leaning toward this one - https://www.amazon.com/CURT-15302-Class-Trailer-Hitch/dp/B00INYAMVW

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I've read lots of good things about Curt hitches, but no direct experience. Was planning on purchasing a Curt hitch for my F550 before I got the flatbed with integrated hitches.

 

[S4Cruiser]

I've read lots of good things about Curt hitches, but no direct experience. Was planning on purchasing a Curt hitch for my F550 before I got the flatbed with integrated hitches.

Pics...

 

[GLTHFJ60]

Drop dead sexy. Love the grey.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Pumped!! Got my electrical essentially done. Tested it out...hit brakes, front turn signals come on...ugh

 

[GLTHFJ60]

You'll figure it out!

 

[Rice]

Pumped!! Got my electrical essentially done. Tested it out...hit brakes, front turn signals come on...ugh

Wrong Battery .... you got SAE electrons and need the metric ones.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Wrong Battery .... you got SAE electrons and need the metric ones.

If only it was that simple!! Battery is dead though...I purchased it like 6 years ago and it's never been charged (charging now hopefully not done as its one of the diehard platinum rebranded odysseys). Just used for a couple winch pulls to load unload on the trailer. It registered ~11.3 volts. Hoping it being so low is why some switches wouldn't work. The brake / turn signals is hopefully just 4 wires crossed...if not then I may have really fxxxed something up.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Here I am beating my head against the wall trying to figure out why this backup light won't turn on...dumbass me had previously removed the fuse.

 

[Rice]

Here I am beating my head against the wall trying to figure out why this backup light won't turn on...dumbass me had previously removed the fuse.

I was hoping you were going to say "Didn't have it in reverse" but the fuse is almost as good.

 

[S4Cruiser]

Wohoo. Everything works! I was struggling with the hazard circuit but my switch is almost dead. I have to hold the rod just a certain way for it to work...yes I said hold the rod.

Does anyone have a 9 wire hazard switch?? I need one!

 

[S4Cruiser]

I feel like a total dumbass but who cares I need help!

Trying to bleed my brakes and last night was a failure. I've since learned that I need to bench bleed the master cylinder which I'm going to do today - sounds straightforward.

Once that is done I'll bleed the rest but need some things cleared up.

1) do I remove the vacuum port cap from the booster or leave it on? I know I attach a hose from the intake manifold to this but if the engine isn't running and bleeding brakes should this port be capped or open? If uncapped it makes a whooshing sound every time the pedal is pressed.

2) I will bleed the rears first. Do I close the bleeder valves, have someone pump the brakes, then with the pedal still depressed, crack the bleeders? How long to wait until closing them and repeating?

3) how can I gravity bleed the brakes if I have no one to pump the pedal?

4) For the clutch master, can I use the same dot brake fluid? I'm using valvoline syn dot 3/4 fluid.

5) do I need to bench bleed the clutch master? Do I bleed it the same way as the brakes? Can I gravity bleed it?

 

[NCFJ]

After trying several different methods of brake bleeding alone I have settled on "tube bleeding". I hook up a clear tube to each bleeder and run them back to the master. I then cycle the pedal until only fluid is in the hoses and being pumped through.

Bench bleed and then tube bleed the whole system. Once no air is in the lines, close the bleeders and clean up the hoses. Part of what this does is that it does not allow any air or fluid to be sucked back into the master when letting up on the pedal during bleeding. All fluid and air continues away from the master.

Do not push the pedal all the way until it bottoms out as this can damage seals allowing for blow by.

 

[GLTHFJ60]

I feel like a total dumbass but who cares I need help!

Trying to bleed my brakes and last night was a failure. I've since learned that I need to bench bleed the master cylinder which I'm going to do today - sounds straightforward.

Once that is done I'll bleed the rest but need some things cleared up.

1) do I remove the vacuum port cap from the booster or leave it on? I know I attach a hose from the intake manifold to this but if the engine isn't running and bleeding brakes should this port be capped or open? If uncapped it makes a whooshing sound every time the pedal is pressed.

Doesn't matter.

2) I will bleed the rears first. Do I close the bleeder valves, have someone pump the brakes, then with the pedal still depressed, crack the bleeders? How long to wait until closing them and repeating?

1. Yes. 2. Until flow slows. Repeat until the stream of brake fluid has no bubbles in it.

3) how can I gravity bleed the brakes if I have no one to pump the pedal?

Yes, if you don't mind waiting for a century.

4) For the clutch master, can I use the same dot brake fluid? I'm using valvoline syn dot 3/4 fluid.

Yes.

5) do I need to bench bleed the clutch master? Do I bleed it the same way as the brakes? Can I gravity bleed it?

1. Yes, but not as critical. 2. Yes. 3. Yes, if you don't mind waiting for a century.


I can come over and give you a hand if you'd like. Pretty simple once someone shows you the ropes. I have a mityvac that makes it easier.

 

[Rice]

I feel like a total dumbass but who cares I need help!

Trying to bleed my brakes and last night was a failure. I've since learned that I need to bench bleed the master cylinder which I'm going to do today - sounds straightforward.

Once that is done I'll bleed the rest but need some things cleared up.

1) do I remove the vacuum port cap from the booster or leave it on? I know I attach a hose from the intake manifold to this but if the engine isn't running and bleeding brakes should this port be capped or open? If uncapped it makes a whooshing sound every time the pedal is pressed.

2) I will bleed the rears first. Do I close the bleeder valves, have someone pump the brakes, then with the pedal still depressed, crack the bleeders? How long to wait until closing them and repeating?

3) how can I gravity bleed the brakes if I have no one to pump the pedal?

4) For the clutch master, can I use the same dot brake fluid? I'm using valvoline syn dot 3/4 fluid.

5) do I need to bench bleed the clutch master? Do I bleed it the same way as the brakes? Can I gravity bleed it?

I'm not adding anything new except for one item .....
1. Johnny got it
2. See #3.
3. I do one man bleed b/c it's all I have. A small piece of tubing goes on the bleeder nipple, then into a Gatorade bottle that I hang under the fender. Next ..... submerge the tube into fluid in the bottle so air cannot be sucked BACK into the system. One wheel at a time you're now ready to simply pump the brakes while leaving the bleeder open. Caution .... this uses a lot of fluid .... be sure not to pump the master dry (i.e. refill often.). Added tip .... after doing Right Rear, then Left rear, do the right rear again in case air split off at the T-junction.
4. Yup
5. Yup


PIC stolen from web:

 

[S4Cruiser]

I'm not adding anything new except for one item .....
1. Johnny got it
2. See #3.
3. I do one man bleed b/c it's all I have. A small piece of tubing goes on the bleeder nipple, then into a Gatorade bottle that I hang under the fender. Next ..... submerge the tube into fluid in the bottle so air cannot be sucked BACK into the system. One wheel at a time you're now ready to simply pump the brakes while leaving the bleeder open. Caution .... this uses a lot of fluid .... be sure not to pump the master dry (i.e. refill often.). Added tip .... after doing Right Rear, then Left rear, do the right rear again in case air split off at the T-junction.
4. Yup
5. Yup


PIC stolen from web:

View attachment 1584111

Nice. I already picked up some of the motiv bottles so I might try this later. I'm sure last night with the wife helping all we were doing was pushing air out then pumping it back in.

 

[little_joe]

Or get a Motive Power Bleeder, one-person job doing the wheel cylinders, no muss no fuss...

 

[Rice]

Lemme reiterate what @NCFJ said .... careful not to go to the floor with the pedal. Can either ruin seals in the MC or tear the aged diaphragm in the booster.