Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (2 Viewers)

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Started restoring some interior bits over the past couple of days. Didn't find a perfect match for the grey of the interior pieces, but Rust-Oleum Hammered Antique Pewter is pretty close, and everything will be getting this paint treatment so it will all match eventually .

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Also contemplating a move to an autometer mechanical short throw temperature gauge. My current gauge is still not an accurate reading after replacing the sender unit and rewiring it. It still goes all the way to high when it's up to operating temp. It's not over heating as I've confirmed several times with my laser thermometer .

I have some extra dash clusters to play with so I'm going to see what I can put together and still look stock, but have an accurate temperature.

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You might have mentioned and I missed it...

Did the autometer gauge come with a sender or did you just reuse the oem one? For some reason I thought the gauge matched the sender or at least for the Toyota part.

Also, what’s the part number of this gauge and the volt meter one I’m likely going to copy you and do the same on my 67!

Looks really good btw!
 
You might have mentioned and I missed it...

Did the autometer gauge come with a sender or did you just reuse the oem one? For some reason I thought the gauge matched the sender or at least for the Toyota part.

Also, what’s the part number of this gauge and the volt meter one I’m likely going to copy you and do the same on my 67!

Looks really good btw!

It's this gauge package: AutoMeter 2348 Autogage Black Console Oil/Volt/Water Gauge https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00062YVSE/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apa_i_joIoCbGF4JNBT

They come with all the senders. The oil and temp are mechanical (OEM is electrical). You can't actually disconnect the sender from the temp gauge so you have to get creative with mounting (see my previous post on it). The threads are NPT instead of BSPT (which is what the OEM are), but it is the "right size" and will thread in and seal if you use some pipe dope .
 
Ordered that gauge pod plus a copper line for the oil pressure sender, thanks again!

Can you confirm the circled junctions (your pic below) are for the instrument cluster and are 4 plug square style? These would be the ones that ‘snap’ into the prong holders on the firewall I think.

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Ordered that gauge pod plus a copper line for the oil pressure sender, thanks again!

Can you confirm the circled junctions (your pic below) are for the instrument cluster and are 4 plug square style? These would be the ones that ‘snap’ into the prong holders on the firewall I think.

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Yup
 
Hey @FJC Mtneer how did you remove the housing from your temp gauge? Trying to install aftermarket gauges in my 45 cluster at present.
 
Sorry for the lack of updates lately. Been really busy with my gym, and not much time to work on the truck (or post about it).

It's been working wonderfully as a daily driver though. Just ticked over 2K miles on the rebuilt odometer (which is still working). Starts up reliably every time without too much protest (even in the cold), and with the rebuilt SD40 it just PURRS... gets about 11.5-12mpg no matter how I drive it. It just works...

I do have a small coolant leak from my thermostat housing. Need to take care of that somehow, but I'm worried the housing may be warped. I also think my water pump is on its way out (good bit of play in the pulley). Will probably be refreshing the cooling system in the near future, as it's likely about time for it (new rad, water pump, hoses).

Also on the docket, welding up my headache rack kit from @Awl_TEQ

And bushings, shocks, engine/trans mounts....

Lots to do when I get a decent stretch of good weather.

I promise I will eventually get around to editing the Sd40 carb video.

In the meantime here's some pics from last week's Cars and Coffee

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Nothing to update on the 45, but I did make it back out to the east coast to try and get my project 40 sorted. I abandoned it about 5 years ago when we moved to Oregon. I had started tearing it apart and had to leave it in my in-laws warehouse.

Today we did a little cataloguing of what was there and moved it to another garage so they can sell the warehouse.

I remembered it being in much worse shape than it actually ended up being. It was my first project vehicle at the time, and I felt pretty overwhelmed by it. Looking at it now with some more experience (and available $$$ haha), I have a better idea of how to attack it. It's actually not bad at all. Needs some body patches, sill, floor etc, but it's actually pretty good.

Having been through the 45 now I think I can make pretty quick work of this, when before I felt paralyzed by what seemed like a huge mountain of stuff to do.

Building Colonel Rustard, My 1975 FJ40

The 2F is toast, or at least not worth the trouble, so I'm going to do a 3FE swap and go from there.

Have renewed interest in getting this one finished, so will likely be making some trips back east as often as I can to keep the momentum up.
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A bit Ferrari, Sir enjoy
visited this exibition in 1994
bought this poster at the exibition & framed it behind glass.
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:):)
Thank you Mrs.& Mr. FJC Mtneer for choosing Ferrari....
...got today about 20%* in € more dividends than last year.
Cheers
* correction + 45,07 % more.......:):)
 
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Water pump replacement today. It was very much due. The old pump was pouring coolant from the bearing. (I thought it was the thermostat housing leaking at first because when it was running it would toss coolant onto the bottom of the t-stat housing where it would drip, and make it look like that housing was leaking instead of the pump.

Had to delete the heater for the new pump unfortunately as the rebuilt pumps don't have the threaded portion for the heater shutoff valve. I do have a solution that I'll post next.

Installation required modification to the hard pipe going to the lower radiator port as the new step down diameter hose was a very different shape from the previous setup. Was able to get it to fit though, and as the old style pump is NLA this won't be an issue.

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So for the heater reinstall I'll have to get a little creative. I had to go to a local hydraulic fitting supplier to get something to cap off where the shut-off valve was coming out of the block anyway.

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They were able to come up with a pretty slick setup with a new valve for when I want to reinstall the heater (the core is leaking anyway so I need to restore it). This should fit both in the location on the block as well as in place of a plug that exists on the pipe going to the lower radiator port. This will give me the ability to shut off the heater circuit in the summers without having to figure out a solution for hooking up a newer style valve.

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