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- Harbour City, the New Southern Wales
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- www.freewayoneentertainment.com
I have run all my carbed engines at 800-900 rpm.
Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DailyDrive_FJ45
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #262
I've had it running at 200 rpm. Sounds like an old steam engine and you can still see the individual fan blades. Haha!
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
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- Canton, Mississippi
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- www.seeandeatms.com
I have to rev mine pretty good at any incline to get it started. A lot of that is the crappy first gear ratio on the 3 speed
- Thread starter
- #264
Yeah I'm finding that an idle around 800 gives me just enough to at least start with no throttle on a flat to slight incline. It doesn't like it that much, but it doesn't feel like it's lugging as much as it does with a 650 idle .
Still need to do a little tuning I think. Driving it around for a few days now and I've noticed a little ping in 3rd. May have a little too much advance at 12° PTDC. Might try bumping it back to 9 or 10 degrees and see how it acts then.
It's still leagues better than that Rochester carb.
Starting procedure ..sometimes owner manuals are fine.
Read page 22
Toyota Land Cruiser 1970s Owners Manual.pdf
Read page 22
Toyota Land Cruiser 1970s Owners Manual.pdf
- Thread starter
- #266
I meant getting the vehicle into gear and rolling. At 650rpm it won't just roll on its own torque in 1st.
It's good to know I'm actually following the correct start-up procedure though!
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- Thread starter
- #267
Reinstalled my restored hand throttle today. Had to move the volume knob for my stereo to an unused hole on the heater controls. I actually think it's a better fit there. Maybe I'll even get another V knob and drill it out to match.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
You don’t have a heater but have the H knob? The volume knob is where the heater on/lo/hi fan pull knob goes.
- Thread starter
- #269
I have a heater. Its just moved out of the way so i could access behind the dash easier
The fan switch is right beside the volume knob. The spot where the volume knob is was just blocked off with a round metal plug.
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middlecalf
SILVER Star
Oops, yeah, I’m brain dead. I added a heat shutoff valve to my ‘65 FJ40 for a FJ60 so that’s what I have in the H position, and the fan switch where your volume switch is. Funny how as time passes I forget more and more of my “OP” hacks.
- Thread starter
- #271
Man, having a working hand throttle is REALLY nice for warming up on cold days! Makes my start-up a lot easier .
Choke out about 1/3rd. Pump gas 3 or 4 times, hold accelerator down about halfway and crank over until it starts. Pull the hand throttle out just a little to bump the idle up until she's warmed up a bit and then take off! Works great!
Choke out about 1/3rd. Pump gas 3 or 4 times, hold accelerator down about halfway and crank over until it starts. Pull the hand throttle out just a little to bump the idle up until she's warmed up a bit and then take off! Works great!
- Thread starter
- #272
Started restoring some interior bits over the past couple of days. Didn't find a perfect match for the grey of the interior pieces, but Rust-Oleum Hammered Antique Pewter is pretty close, and everything will be getting this paint treatment so it will all match eventually .
Also contemplating a move to an autometer mechanical short throw temperature gauge. My current gauge is still not an accurate reading after replacing the sender unit and rewiring it. It still goes all the way to high when it's up to operating temp. It's not over heating as I've confirmed several times with my laser thermometer .
I have some extra dash clusters to play with so I'm going to see what I can put together and still look stock, but have an accurate temperature.
Also contemplating a move to an autometer mechanical short throw temperature gauge. My current gauge is still not an accurate reading after replacing the sender unit and rewiring it. It still goes all the way to high when it's up to operating temp. It's not over heating as I've confirmed several times with my laser thermometer .
I have some extra dash clusters to play with so I'm going to see what I can put together and still look stock, but have an accurate temperature.
- Thread starter
- #273
Messing around with that extra gauge cluster a little today. I think it looks good. Will probably go ahead and build this one up and set the original aside (will need to transfer speedo/odo cluster though)
- Thread starter
- #274
Face painted and housing back together with the glass .
- Thread starter
- #275
Well whadyaknow?!? I have a temperature reading that accurately reflects the measurements I'm taking at the block now!
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- Joined
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Nice job.
middlecalf
SILVER Star
^x2. A pic of the backside mounting of the autometer in the cluster?
- Thread starter
- #278
was posted above, but here's what i did... cut a slot in the plate the gauges mount to.
That's the only thing that kinda sucks about the mechanical gauge. You can't unhook the tubing to install it. Otherwise you'd just be able to drill a hole.
- Thread starter
- #279
Also, I painted that needle with some Rosso Corsa touch-up paint i had sitting around. Now my truck's got a little Ferrari in it! Ha!
middlecalf
SILVER Star
Dang, another brain dump on my part. Didn’t realize that pic was the backside mount, duh! Nice creativity!
