- Thread starter
- #241
Vinegar bath did my small parts good!
Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DailyDrive_FJ45
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- Thread starter
- #242
Noticed a neat little detail on the mixture screw that was obscured by grime before the cleaning
- Thread starter
- #243
Very very happy with how nice the carb body cleaned up.
Was thinking about having it plated, but the original patina will fit in the engine bay much better, and still be beautiful .
Was thinking about having it plated, but the original patina will fit in the engine bay much better, and still be beautiful .
- Thread starter
- #244
Another little project today. Restoring the stuck hand throttle knob.
The original cablecwas VERY stuck inside the housing and needed a lot of oil and heat to even get it to budge. I eventually came to the realization that I wasn't getting the housing off the cable if I didn't get the knob and solid shaft free of its housing. There is a cap at the end that can be removed and the housing can be pried apart at its seam with a small screwdriver.
From there I was able to get to the solid shaft attached to the knob and clip the cable off the end of it allowing me to remove the knob.
I was eventually able to pull the cable from the housing by wrapping one of the ends around some needle nose pliers and going to town. (I decided to replace the cable, but wanted to retain the housing). Once the cable was free I cleaned the housing the best I could and let it soak in some Marvel Mystery Oil .
Onto replacing the cable. This poses some challenges because the solid shaft that allows partial pulling is actually fused with the flexible cable. You can't just easily remove and replace the cable. I decided the best course of action would be to try and solder the new wire on.
For the replacement cable I chose 18ga solid wire. The original cable is 16ga solid wire, but 18ga should move more freely in the housing and is plenty strong. (The steel galvanized wire they sell for picture frame hanging is perfect). I've heard of people using bike cables, but I tried to stay original.
To attach the cable to the shaft of the knob I first drilled a 1/16" hole in the shaft near the end. I then made a small hook at the end of the wire and threaded that through the hole, crimping the hook.
I then soldered the wire in place
After soldering I ground down the loop on the cable to be flush with the shaft (to make sure it can thread into the housing unimpeded)
From there, thread the knob through it's housing, bend it all back together, add the end cap again then take the cable housing and thread the cable through that. Now you're done! You have a new cable!
The original cablecwas VERY stuck inside the housing and needed a lot of oil and heat to even get it to budge. I eventually came to the realization that I wasn't getting the housing off the cable if I didn't get the knob and solid shaft free of its housing. There is a cap at the end that can be removed and the housing can be pried apart at its seam with a small screwdriver.
From there I was able to get to the solid shaft attached to the knob and clip the cable off the end of it allowing me to remove the knob.
I was eventually able to pull the cable from the housing by wrapping one of the ends around some needle nose pliers and going to town. (I decided to replace the cable, but wanted to retain the housing). Once the cable was free I cleaned the housing the best I could and let it soak in some Marvel Mystery Oil .
Onto replacing the cable. This poses some challenges because the solid shaft that allows partial pulling is actually fused with the flexible cable. You can't just easily remove and replace the cable. I decided the best course of action would be to try and solder the new wire on.
For the replacement cable I chose 18ga solid wire. The original cable is 16ga solid wire, but 18ga should move more freely in the housing and is plenty strong. (The steel galvanized wire they sell for picture frame hanging is perfect). I've heard of people using bike cables, but I tried to stay original.
To attach the cable to the shaft of the knob I first drilled a 1/16" hole in the shaft near the end. I then made a small hook at the end of the wire and threaded that through the hole, crimping the hook.
I then soldered the wire in place
After soldering I ground down the loop on the cable to be flush with the shaft (to make sure it can thread into the housing unimpeded)
From there, thread the knob through it's housing, bend it all back together, add the end cap again then take the cable housing and thread the cable through that. Now you're done! You have a new cable!
- Thread starter
- #245
The job wouldn't be complete witbwit rejuvenating the knob itself. Cleaned and painted.
Fussy in details..... 
....Cheers
....Cheers
- Thread starter
- #247
Fussy in details.....
....Cheers
Haha! I used to work in Quality/Regulatory for a pharma company (preparing for fda audit, overseeing testing protocol). Fussy details are what I do best .
Michael B
SILVER Star
Interesting, I used to work as a metrologist at a pharma company. Now I’m a service rep to pharma companies throughout the southeast for a small private firm.
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- Thread starter
- #249
Wife and I took our eldest dog out to Christmas tree farm today to pick out a tree. Maytag was a pretty big hit there. Always get a lot of questions.
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- #250
Other update is that my rebuild kit for my SD40 is in now. I'll be working on a good video for my rebuild process. Trying to research as much as I can so it's a good informative video.
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- Thread starter
- #251
Was messing around with a timing light this weekend and did have some questions. Hoping someone can shed some light on timing an early Vac Advance distributor with a pertronix setup .
The threads I've found on timing are recommending 10° advance for pertronix setups, but I'm not sure if that's for the post '70 vac retard dizzys.
When I first started messing with timing I found it was set to about 5° advance at 650rpm, and I would have intermittent starting issues.
So I set it so the BB is on the pin when my light is set to 3° advance, which brings the TDC mark to the pin at 10° advance.
It starts up nice and seems to run fine at higher rpms I just wanted to make sure I'm not doing any damage by having so much advance when the advance continues to grow as the RPMs go up .
Can anyone she'd some light on this for me?
The threads I've found on timing are recommending 10° advance for pertronix setups, but I'm not sure if that's for the post '70 vac retard dizzys.
When I first started messing with timing I found it was set to about 5° advance at 650rpm, and I would have intermittent starting issues.
So I set it so the BB is on the pin when my light is set to 3° advance, which brings the TDC mark to the pin at 10° advance.
It starts up nice and seems to run fine at higher rpms I just wanted to make sure I'm not doing any damage by having so much advance when the advance continues to grow as the RPMs go up .
Can anyone she'd some light on this for me?
- Thread starter
- #252
SD40 is freshly rebuilt and on the truck!
Still needs some adjustments so I'll likely be pulling it back off and going through it again as I'm getting hesitation/ stalling on throttle. Wondering if I put the wrong step-up rod in or if I don't have it adjusted correctly.
It idles beautifully though, and looks nice too!
Still needs some adjustments so I'll likely be pulling it back off and going through it again as I'm getting hesitation/ stalling on throttle. Wondering if I put the wrong step-up rod in or if I don't have it adjusted correctly.
It idles beautifully though, and looks nice too!
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21 years with a Pharma company......
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How's your soul?
I'm not a carb/timing man by any means. I'd say two things. 1. Did you set timing with the vac line pulled? 2. If it doesn't ping, let'er ring!
- Thread starter
- #255
Yes. Pulled it to set timing hooked it back up to verify advance.
I guess I'm just so used to being paranoid AF about interference engines that when I get a non-interference boat anchor like this I don't really know what to do.
- Thread starter
- #256
Okay pulled the carb off again, and stripped it down again.
Two things.
1. I had a check valve in a place it didn't belong (but where it fit perfectly oddly enough) and it was partially blocking a passage on my accelerator circuit. (See picture)
2. I needed EVEN MORE advance than I was running with the rochester on the pertronix setup to get this to accelerate smoothly.
The rochester was running 10 degrees PTDC, I'm now running 13 degrees PTDC and it's smooth as silk....
Crazy....
Two things.
1. I had a check valve in a place it didn't belong (but where it fit perfectly oddly enough) and it was partially blocking a passage on my accelerator circuit. (See picture)
2. I needed EVEN MORE advance than I was running with the rochester on the pertronix setup to get this to accelerate smoothly.
The rochester was running 10 degrees PTDC, I'm now running 13 degrees PTDC and it's smooth as silk....
Crazy....
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Nice work.
- Thread starter
- #258
Tuning tools. Vac gauge, timing light. Here's where it currently sits.
Idle at 650ish RPM pulling about 20inHg vac with 12° advance.
Seems to run pretty smooth like this, my only complaint is off idle it's pretty gutless. Doesn't really have the torque to idle up a slight incline in gear. Would it be the worst thing in the world to bump the idle up to 750-800 rpm or so?
Idle at 650ish RPM pulling about 20inHg vac with 12° advance.
Seems to run pretty smooth like this, my only complaint is off idle it's pretty gutless. Doesn't really have the torque to idle up a slight incline in gear. Would it be the worst thing in the world to bump the idle up to 750-800 rpm or so?
no.
but do you need to idle up an incline?
the charm, and indeed one of the best parts of a well tuned good running f is the silky smooth low rpm idle. Always cool for me to see how low a vacuum leak free properly tuned f can idle. lean dropped 20 at 650 is great. i love turning them down at proper advance with no vacuum leaks just to see how slow they will go.
- Thread starter
- #260
I live in Portland. I wind up in a lot of stop & go. A slow idle crawl would be nice .
