KT40
SILVER Star
It states it at the bottom of the sheet.
Builds Maytag. 1967 LPB, a daily driven survivor (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter DailyDrive_FJ45
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It states it at the bottom of the sheet.
- Thread starter
- #222
Www.Classiccarwiring.com
I was a little skeptical about its accuracy going in, but it actually matched my '66 harness perfectly
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #223
Today I set to work diagnosing my low beams, and figuring out my turn/tail connections. I was successful!
For the low beams I started at the front and worked my way back. First I ran a jumper wire from the battery (+) to the red/green wire terminal on the headlight assembly to verify that the lights themselves weren't burnt out. They were not. So out came the multi-meter.
I knew my light switch was good because all other lights come on and operate as they should. Just no low beams. Turning on the switch and testing the red/green at the bib junction gave me no voltage.
On to the dimmer switch on the floor. No voltage at that connection either. Flipping the switch brought the high beams on. Perfect 12V at all of those connections on the Red/Yellow wire at the switch and bib junction, and at the red/white coming into the dimmer switch.
That narrowed it down to a faulty switch or a break in the Red/Green wire somewhere in the harness. To narrow it down further I ran a jumper from the Red/White Power wire directly to the red/green low beam wire and voila! Low beams worked! Looks like I need a new dimmer switch...
On to the turn signals. Through trial and error I was able to figure out which connections belonged to the front and rear markers respectively. Then adding one connection at a time to verify the operation of that light. Once I had everything wired up my turn signals worked, however hitting the brake pedal lit both the brake lights and the turn signals. Not great.
On a whim I disconnected the Green/White that I knew was supposed to feed the Brake Lamp Switch, and it worked! Correctly functioning brakes and turns! Completely puzzled why that worked. Logic would dictate that if you have a matching wire with corresponding connectors they should be connected right? Don't understand why this worked, but it did. My only guess is that maybe the brake lamp switch isn't original and has a slightly different operation?
Overall glad to have all of that sorted. Now to get the truck running again. Decided to check spark and wasn't getting any. Looks like my points went bad. Went ahead and opted to go with a Pertronix setup, I'll carry around a spare set of points if I need to, but not having to fool around with adjusting the points is worth it to me.
For the low beams I started at the front and worked my way back. First I ran a jumper wire from the battery (+) to the red/green wire terminal on the headlight assembly to verify that the lights themselves weren't burnt out. They were not. So out came the multi-meter.
I knew my light switch was good because all other lights come on and operate as they should. Just no low beams. Turning on the switch and testing the red/green at the bib junction gave me no voltage.
On to the dimmer switch on the floor. No voltage at that connection either. Flipping the switch brought the high beams on. Perfect 12V at all of those connections on the Red/Yellow wire at the switch and bib junction, and at the red/white coming into the dimmer switch.
That narrowed it down to a faulty switch or a break in the Red/Green wire somewhere in the harness. To narrow it down further I ran a jumper from the Red/White Power wire directly to the red/green low beam wire and voila! Low beams worked! Looks like I need a new dimmer switch...
On to the turn signals. Through trial and error I was able to figure out which connections belonged to the front and rear markers respectively. Then adding one connection at a time to verify the operation of that light. Once I had everything wired up my turn signals worked, however hitting the brake pedal lit both the brake lights and the turn signals. Not great.
On a whim I disconnected the Green/White that I knew was supposed to feed the Brake Lamp Switch, and it worked! Correctly functioning brakes and turns! Completely puzzled why that worked. Logic would dictate that if you have a matching wire with corresponding connectors they should be connected right? Don't understand why this worked, but it did. My only guess is that maybe the brake lamp switch isn't original and has a slightly different operation?
Overall glad to have all of that sorted. Now to get the truck running again. Decided to check spark and wasn't getting any. Looks like my points went bad. Went ahead and opted to go with a Pertronix setup, I'll carry around a spare set of points if I need to, but not having to fool around with adjusting the points is worth it to me.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
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- 550
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- 44,823
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
Nice work.
- Thread starter
- #225
Finished buttoning everything up today (except the dimmer switch, still running lights on the jumper until the replacement is in). Pertronix Ignition installed and it fired RIGHT up in less than a second and idled the smoothest i'd ever heard it!
Installed another circuit breaker. This time a 30A on the BR wire between the ignition switch and its splice into the main WL wire. I now have three separate breakers hopefully protecting me from any more electrical mishaps. Also functions as a pretty handy kill switch.
Was even able to source some unobtanium from a local guy I found with an early 40 that he's customizing, and an ebay seller with some early parts.
Snagged this early style inspection lamp socket to replace my cracked one.
Before
After
And a replacement H knob for the heater. (also have a replacement switch now, but really just wanted the knob because my switch is still good)
Before
After
This was also the first time i'd driven it since replacing all of the weatherstripping and putting the top and doors back on.
WE'RE RATTLE FREE!!!!!! It's not exactly quiet, but it's certainly closer to a library than it was before! A little louder than my old Jeep TJ was, but not by much.
Success!
Now maybe I can drive it for a little while before I have to take everything apart again (fingers crossed)
Installed another circuit breaker. This time a 30A on the BR wire between the ignition switch and its splice into the main WL wire. I now have three separate breakers hopefully protecting me from any more electrical mishaps. Also functions as a pretty handy kill switch.
Was even able to source some unobtanium from a local guy I found with an early 40 that he's customizing, and an ebay seller with some early parts.
Snagged this early style inspection lamp socket to replace my cracked one.
Before
After
And a replacement H knob for the heater. (also have a replacement switch now, but really just wanted the knob because my switch is still good)
Before
After
This was also the first time i'd driven it since replacing all of the weatherstripping and putting the top and doors back on.
WE'RE RATTLE FREE!!!!!! It's not exactly quiet, but it's certainly closer to a library than it was before! A little louder than my old Jeep TJ was, but not by much.
Success!
Now maybe I can drive it for a little while before I have to take everything apart again (fingers crossed)
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
- Messages
- 44,823
- Location
- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
- www.seeandeatms.com
Noisiest vehicle ever. Man. If you got it rattle free I’m bringing you mine.
- Thread starter
- #227
It's really the OEM door rubber. It's so thick I have to slam my doors to get them to.close now. Definitely keeps them in place now.
- Joined
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Yep. Mine is the same. The driver door is getting better but the passenger takes a full slam.
I’ve got a gas smell that’s getting annoying. I can’t find any leaks.
And it’s loud. I have long gravel driveway and hearing the tires release the gravel into the fenders is deafening
- Thread starter
- #229
Have you tried replacing the sender unit gasket? I was getting a little bit of a smell and my gasket was getting a little ratty.
- Thread starter
- #230
Exciting delivery today. Big window SD-40 carb! Thanks @Indygbd!
Production date codes out to 11/06/1963. So a little earlier than my truck, but who knows maybe it sat on a shelf for a bit after it was built.
Will be getting a dip and rebuild. Possibly plating depending on how fancy I want to be.
Kit is on the way.
Production date codes out to 11/06/1963. So a little earlier than my truck, but who knows maybe it sat on a shelf for a bit after it was built.
Will be getting a dip and rebuild. Possibly plating depending on how fancy I want to be.
Kit is on the way.
- Joined
- Feb 10, 2002
- Threads
- 550
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- 44,823
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- Canton, Mississippi
- Website
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Your truck deserves that carburetor.
I absolutely love the way mine runs with it.
I absolutely love the way mine runs with it.
- Thread starter
- #232
Im just glad to be getting rid of the Rochester that's currently on it. Even freshly rebuilt it's just not good.
63cruiser
SILVER Star
I learned the bottom piece(not sure what it’s called) is original in its blue color. Might not want to dip that and lose the color.
- Thread starter
- #234
I was wondering about that. Thanks for the heads up. I'll try to get that bit clean with less caustic measures
- Thread starter
- #235
Because I'm the type of person who immediately tears into mechanical parts. Wanted to get a look inside this carb.
- Joined
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- 44,823
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I’d never get that back together
- Thread starter
- #237
It was pretty dirty and the moving parts were pretty well gummed up.
Spent a little time getting the worst of the dirt off with dish soap and warm water. The top parts then went into the dip.
Throttle body actually cleaned up nicely with just the soap and water treatment which means I don't hurt that blue paint .
Small parts are soaking in distilled vinegar.
Spent a little time getting the worst of the dirt off with dish soap and warm water. The top parts then went into the dip.
Throttle body actually cleaned up nicely with just the soap and water treatment which means I don't hurt that blue paint .
Small parts are soaking in distilled vinegar.
- Thread starter
- #238
63cruiser
SILVER Star
Any chance you can do a step by step or video of the rebuild?. Couple of videos available on the newer carbs but not on the sd40.
- Thread starter
- #240
Not a bad idea. I'll do that when I'm putting it back together .
