Builds Project HAZARD DUTY LX450

[SFROMAN]

Love this thread- would love to know the points hit in NC..trying to plan an inaugural trip with my daughters when it's not so damn hot out..

Are you in NC?
If yes
Go over to the old north state cruisers (ONSC) clubhouse
And become a member. The club has at least one event a month and monthly meetings/ get togethers.

as far as info on where to go. Pm me what your looking for and I can give you some ideas of where to explore. Typically not a good idea to post those kind of things on public forums. Not that the locations are secret or anything. Just want to keep traffic to a minimum

 

[SFROMAN]

Well, here I am again. Updating my build thread which I keep forgetting about.

I finally finished up covering up all the holes remaining from pulling all the plastic cladding.

I documented how I did it here:

80 prep and paint

Planning on prepping and painting my 80 for the next 5 days. My goal is to get it all finished up in time to head out to the Kentucky trail ride on Wednesday evening. I have a plan in place with plenty of leeway. So I should be able to finish if I stick to my timeline. If anybody wants to...

forum.ih8mud.com

So this is what the 80 looks like now.

I still need to color sand, cut and buff the paint but I will do that at a later time.

 

[SFROMAN]

I just ordered all 4 window runs, and exterior window trim since all of mine have seen better days.
My driver window fell off the track. Wanting to repair it is what prompted me to just go ahead and replace the window track for all four windows since the other 3 are also super slow.

I also ordered all new motor mounts and transmission mounts.

Most of this stuff should be done this week before driving the 80 to Florida for the weekend.

 

[White Sheep]

Looks really good. Great job

 

[JohnnyFish]

I remember Jonathan Ward talking about TLC or Icon deciding to re-wire the windows because Toyota's OEM harness wasn't getting enough voltage to the motors.

 

[SFROMAN]

Yeah. They probably wired them directly to the battery or something like that. Has anybody else done it?

I honestly don’t have any issue with the factory speed. I just want the windows to go up and down smoothly.
I was told that replacing the window runs will make the windows go up and down smoothly and a lot faster than with the 30 year old runs.

That should be plenty good for me.

 

[JohnnyFish]

This superlube is supposed to help a lot.
Amazon product ASIN B06WLQ251B

 

[SFROMAN]

This superlube is supposed to help a lot.
Amazon product ASIN B06WLQ251B

Have you or anybody else used this stuff on the window runs?
I am going to be installing all new window runs today but typically don’t like to add any lubrication because it collects dirt which slows the windows down.

I’m pretty sure my problems started when I sprayed wd40 on the runs to try to help the windows go up and down easier, especially in the winter.

 

[baldilocks]

Have you or anybody else used this stuff on the window runs?
I am going to be installing all new window runs today but typically don’t like to add any lubrication because it collects dirt which slows the windows down.

I’m pretty sure my problems started when I sprayed wd40 on the runs to try to help the windows go up and down easier, especially in the winter.

Toyota presents us with a thorough maintenance program that does not suggest we use lubricants on the window channel runs. Worn runs and worn regulators allow the glass to become crooked in the runs which is the primary cause of slow windows. RockAuto sells motor/regulator units for a fair price.

 

[SFROMAN]

Toyota presents us with a thorough maintenance program that does not suggest we use lubricants on the window channel runs. Worn runs and worn regulators allow the glass to become crooked in the runs which is the primary cause of slow windows. RockAuto sells motor/regulator units for a fair price.

Well I’m replacing all the old stuff. That’s why I was asking. Don’t want to ruin the new stuff by spraying them with any kind of lubricant

 

[SFROMAN]

Still waiting on a few more items. The parts guy at the dealership I should have the rest by today. Hopefully

 

[Malleus]

Well, here I am again. Updating my build thread which I keep forgetting about.

I finally finished up covering up all the holes remaining from pulling all the plastic cladding.

I documented how I did it here:

80 prep and paint

Planning on prepping and painting my 80 for the next 5 days. My goal is to get it all finished up in time to head out to the Kentucky trail ride on Wednesday evening. I have a plan in place with plenty of leeway. So I should be able to finish if I stick to my timeline. If anybody wants to...

forum.ih8mud.com

So this is what the 80 looks like now.

I still need to color sand, cut and buff the paint but I will do that at a later time.

View attachment 3266063
View attachment 3266065View attachment 3266067View attachment 3266066

Del, when you are finished with school, I'm hiring you tp paint my son's LX470! You can use the same paint. Really outstanding job! I paid almost $10k to have my white 80 restored and it's no better (and probably not as good) as yours.

 

[SFROMAN]

Del, when you are finished with school, I'm hiring you tp paint my son's LX470! You can use the same paint. Really outstanding job! I paid almost $10k to have my white 80 restored and it's no better (and probably not as good) as yours.

You bet.
We can talk. Send me a pm.

 

[Malleus]

Yeah. They probably wired them directly to the battery or something like that. Has anybody else done it?

I honestly don’t have any issue with the factory speed. I just want the windows to go up and down smoothly.
I was told that replacing the window runs will make the windows go up and down smoothly and a lot faster than with the 30 year old runs.

That should be plenty good for me.

I did that on number 1 son's 80 and it did the trick. The glass is slow(er) in the cold, but overall it's nearly OEM speed. No electrical wizardry needed!

 

[SFROMAN]

Replaced all plastic And trim pieces from the windows and doors.

Then I gave the doors an additional layer of sound deadening ( had to pull some of it when I was filling the holes from the plastic body trim) then I added a layer of sound deading foam that absorbs ambient noise.

I really need to find a write up to power the window motors directly to a 12v source becasue after changing the runs and cleaning everything. The tires are still slow as hell.

Anybody have a Link on how to repower the motors to make them faster?

 

[SFROMAN]

All the old crap going to the trash.

All 4 windows are running smoothly just like new. No more issues.

I did not add any type of dressing on the new runs. It is just the new oem runs.

So far so good.

I went ahead and cleaned and scraped all the old crappy tint as well.

Hopefully the engine mount replacement goes as smoothly.

 

[OffRoadScott]

How hard was it to do the rear 1/4 glass?

 

[SFROMAN]

the long side windows in the cargo area?

The only thing I did to those for now was replace the small trim under them.

I didn’t have to do anything to the small windows in the rear doors except pull the old tint off.

I also didn’t replace the old wetherguard that seals the doors and rear cargo area windows.

I will replace those once I repaint the jams. Since I don’t want to get paint or tape residue on the new ones.

 

[OffRoadScott]

the long side windows in the cargo area?

The only thing I did to those for now was replace the small trim under them.

I didn’t have to do anything to the small windows in the rear doors except pull the old tint off.

I also didn’t replace the old wetherguard that seals the doors and rear cargo area windows.

I will replace those once I repaint the jams. Since I don’t want to get paint or tape residue on the new ones.

The small trim underneath the windows. Sorry for not being so specific.

 

[SFROMAN]

No problem.

The small trim is super easy. The new one comes with its own clips.

Pull the old one off. The plastic clips are likely going to stay on the body. Just use a small pick to pry them off and toss them.
Line up the new piece of trim under the window and adjust the small
Plastic clips to match the holes on the body. Once aligned snap them into place. Those were the easiest out of all of them.