Builds 1964 FJ45 Short Bed Fixed Top Pickup Restoration (3 Viewers)

[FJ60Cam]

The aluminum outlet looked like that inch could be cut out of it and glued back together:

 

[FJ60Cam]

My five minutes had rapidly turning into ten which turned into thirty without even realizing it, when I thought I could cut it out real quick just see what it would look like

 

[FJ60Cam]

Oblivious to the time, I figured that looks like it will work, might as well tack it together. So I dust out the welder.

Tacks turn to full-on hot glue gun:

 

[FJ60Cam]

Went from this:

To this:

It’s going to work perfect. Now it’s a straight drop. We’ll even be able to use the factory hose, we just need to cut it and add a 3” vertical radiator hose coupler to make up the extra height in the 40.

 

[FJ60Cam]

There was a similar problem on the other side, but when you held up all the parts, it looked like there was hope.

The water outlet was pointed in the wrong direction, but looked like that could be fixed with a cut and turn. We could even bolt in the steel 90 section if we cut off the factory bracket and re-welded it.

 

[FJ60Cam]

 

[FJ60Cam]

Five minutes had turned into most of the day, but this was going to work nicely.

The bracket looked like it would work too with a little trimming and bending.

All together, using all factory 80 hoses and parts:

 

[wngrog]

This is why there is no Advance Adapter kit for a 1FZ into a FJ45

 

[PAToyota]

Five minutes had turned into most of the day, but this was going to work nicely.

Yep. Those days you wander out to the shop with your mug of coffee and a piece of toast and twelve hours later you're done but realize that you haven't eaten anything all day and it is now dark...

 

[franklin40]

One thing we noticed is that the 1FZ is pretty tight in the 45’s engine bay, front to back. We are running the slick SPAL brushless setup on this, which requires a minimum depth of shroud to work properly. While the motor fit in there physically, we wanted a little more room visually.

First step was to remove this tubular cross brace and and angle channel from the front of the radiator and replace it with a flat bar (not pictred:

View attachment 2702232

After slotting the radiator support mount holes in the frame, we were able to push the radiator forward 1/2-3/4”. Now there’s a little more breathing room visually:

View attachment 2702233

View attachment 2702234

can you give me specifics on that spal fan? i’m needing a low depth fan for my current build. ill have to move my radiator forward a little as well to gain that 3/4 inch if real estate

 

[wngrog]

High level business meeting today with the Rotunda team. John, the principle was absent due to having to declare and emergency on takeoff in the Cirrus when the oil temps pegged and the warning lights blared.

That meant I had to buy everyone lunch. I think it was a trick.

(Live Photo of me falling asleep while Beno talked part numbers)

 

[FJ60Cam]

The meeting minutes would not be complete without a picture of lunch

 

[FJ60Cam]

can you give me specifics on that spal fan? i’m needing a low depth fan for my current build. ill have to move my radiator forward a little as well to gain that 3/4 inch if real estate

We use the 500W 16” fans on our radiators:

It looks low-depth, but does need a minimum of 2-1/2” or so of shroud for the motor & fan. Total depth is 3”…

 

[jomelo]

Took a pilgrimage to Memphis yesterday to see what’s up. Fixed the issue with the Cirrus and we cruised right up. This is another trip where the Cirrus shines. It would take me at least an entire day to drive to Memphis the way I drive. I made it in a little over 2 hours.

I remembered to bring along the new plate I acquired. Much better.

Not a lot to report on Rotunda. I was primarily there to see the Cop Motor @FJ60Cam had finished for the Mustard 78. Cam said something about waiting on hydraulics. I hope that has nothing to do with the bed of the truck. Memphis is full of S10’s with hydraulic beds.

 

[FJ60Cam]

Well crap, we’ll have to think of another surprise

 

[wngrog]

Well.......this build thread is about to change a bit. Let’s just say the 63 has the Corona......it’s not a lost cause but I’m not sure we want to touch it right now. - it’s going to self-quarantine. Let’s just leave it at that. We are going back to the original plan on the beige 1964. I’m going to walk off the stage now as the riot ensues.

Rona has been around as long as this build

 

[jomelo]

Rona has been around as long as this build

This is basically a post-apocalyptic thread.

 

[wngrog]

This is basically a post-apocalyptic thread.

We are waiting for the aliens to release Cam so we can bask in the fruit of his abduction

 

[FJ60Cam]

After John’s visit (and getting a hard thumbs down on the bed shaking hydraulics), we spent a lot of time scrapping & removing all traces of the hydraulic system for the bed.

We started in on the first stretch of exhaust so that we would know what real estate options we had for routing the hydroboost lines.

Our plan was to take a similar path as the 80 series - Y pipe from the manifold over the passenger frame rail, run down the outside of the frame, and then cross back over somewhere to take it rearward for cat, muffler, and tailpipe.

The 80 Y pipe had no chance of working. It’s too big to even bolt to the motor without hitting the inner fender.

We thought we could just chop it up and rework the bends like we did with the water outlets:

 

[Ol Yeller]

And??

Just leave us all hanging...