Project Hatchet.
- Thread starter AJR
- Start date
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- Thread starter
- #62
Awesome, I appreciate any hours of help
As you can see, there is plenty of photo evidence. It definitely happened. I’ll try and get some more of the time lapse video up soon. Hopefully I can figure out how to edit it.
Can’t wait to see it in action!
Trying to pick the angles that haven't been posted:
Wish I could come help, but I've got to get my own truck back together and ready for gsmtr
Wish I could come help, but I've got to get my own truck back together and ready for gsmtr
- Thread starter
- #67
Yeah you do, quit messing around with my stuff. I need someone to do all the crazy trails with, you know, someone who doesn’t mind a little body damage.Trying to pick the angles that haven't been posted:
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View attachment 2449828
Wish I could come help, but I've got to get my own truck back together and ready for gsmtr
Fort Knox
SILVER Star
- Thread starter
- #70
Got the bracing done for the rear bumper and the rear of the tray last night. .25 wall 2x2 and 3/8 plate, maybe an overkill but it’s what I had. This might turn into the frame work for the rear mounted winch, so I guess it’s better to be too strong and a little heavy, rather than weak.
Love it. Have plans for more bracing towards the center rear beam, where the recovery point will be?
- Thread starter
- #72
Probably, I need to think a little more about how that's going to work. In the mean time, I am going to brace the upright supports for the tray with some gussets.
- Thread starter
- #73
One thought is maybe add a big fat lower cross member between what's left of the rear frame rails. This would act as a bottom support for the rear skid plate, and maybe the bottom of the rear winch plate. A lower recovery point is better I think, and it would be direct to the frame, although I think the rear bumper of the tray might be strong enough. Another option might be on top of the frame right over the rear axle, and independent of the tray completely. Only problem with that, is that it doesn't offer much for off center recovery, and would probably require the winch, because it would be so far back from the rear most point.
I like that much better. You're going to be really ripping on that recovery point, so getting it closer to the center of gravity is a good thing (frame height, not bed height). It'll also make it much easier to reinforce.
I'm thinking you tube/plate between the mitered frame ends, and put your recovery point there, in the middle. Couple of cross-braces between to triangulate and you're golden.
Know how my rear crossmember is bent outwards slightly? 1/4" wall 2x4 tubing with diagonal supports between and a hitch/tow point in the middle. Still not strong enough.
- Thread starter
- #75
I'm thinking something like this, but recovery points in line with the diagonal bracing, and nothing in the middle ( rear winch will be middle tow point). My only concern with doing this is that I don't have enough rear frame left. I'll need to check later and see, it may need to overlap on to the rear tray supports that I just built last night.
Progress report? I’m back from my motorcycle trip and about to start tackling some things on the 40. Hopefully I can have my toy ready in time for GSMTR too.
SFROMAN
SILVER Star
I went over to Adams yesterday morning for a few hours.
we got the bottom half of the cab tacked up. He ran out of gas so couldn’t fully weld it in.
we measured and cut the top half and measured and marked for the rear window.
I am going to try to go over and help him weld the rest of it up next weekend.
sorry no pics.
we got the bottom half of the cab tacked up. He ran out of gas so couldn’t fully weld it in.
we measured and cut the top half and measured and marked for the rear window.
I am going to try to go over and help him weld the rest of it up next weekend.
sorry no pics.
- Thread starter
- #78
It took a good bit of time to get those rear door pieces welded in, and back lower panel bent to meet them. I’m glad @SFROMAN was there, definitely a 2 person job.
I also put a motor in it, kind of an important item. I still need to finish exhaust, get the gas tank mounted, and put the power steering system together before I can start it, but it’s close. In the process of getting everything together for the engine, I realized that some of the pins in one of the transmission wiring harness connectors had corroded away. Fortunately I know a guy who has lots of 80 parts and changed out the transmission wiring harness, it wasn’t as bad as I expected it to be. I’m really just trying to get an engine in and running ASAP, so I’m skipping over some of the stuff that I would normally do, like cleaning, painting, etc when doing an engine swap. If this thing turns out to be as fun as I think, I’ll probably build one of the 1fzs I have and put that in later.
NCFJ
Supporting Vendor
Looking good Adam. Looking at the back panel. Have you considered using a bead roller and adding some stiffness to that panel?
Bead rolling would be pimp-tastic. Maybe the club should buy one for us to use 