FAM-V - FJ68/LS3 Build (1 Viewer)

[bmzero]

This '84 FJ60 is going to be our "family adventure machine". It will be built out in somewhat of an overlanding setup with good street manners and driveability in mind. It will probably be my daily driver if I'm able to get all of the kinks ironed out.

It will also be towed behind our motorhome (on a trailer) along with a 4 seat Polaris General.

After searching online for a few months, I finally found one within a couple hours of home and picked it up about a month ago.

It will get the chassis and drivetrain (axles, suspension, transfer case, etc.) from a 1996 FJ80.

It will also get a L92 (Gen IV truck version of the 6.2L LS3) and a 6L80 transmission.

I would like to keep the paint the way it is, with few little rust-fix repairs.

I'll do my best to update this thread along the way.

Day 1 (worst wheel/tire combo possible)

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Day 1 plus about 30 minutes

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20" wheels just to take some photos and annoy @woody (they were quickly taken off and back to the black steelies).

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Ammo can console with 3D printed hinge.

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Roof Rack Drawing

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3D Printed Switch Panel (unpainted in this photo)

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New Battery and BTF battery box

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Huge Mess

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More to come.

 

[cruisermatt]

What ECU are you planning on running? Disabling AFM (Active Fuel Management)?

Sounds like it will be a very exciting build, especially if there are links involved.

 

[mongoose2231]

 

[bmzero]

What ECU are you planning on running? Disabling AFM (Active Fuel Management)?

At this point, it looks like I can keep the OEM ECU and TCU. www.RPMExtreme.com is going to do the initial programming for me and the final dyno tune.

The L92 doesn't have AFM. That was added for the L9H in 2009. The L92 has VVT. I'm not overly concerned with it either way, though. Jon (at RPM Extreme) says he can make any of them work. I'll scoop up the first deal I can find on a good low mileage 6.2L/6L80 (truck intake) motor combo and work with him on the final parameters.

As for links, I am still doing the research on that for this application. I'm not a huge fan of leaf springs, but I want to make sure links are the right call for this vehicle before fully committing. Here was my last linked build - GM 6.0L L96/6L90 Jeep TJ.

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[tmxmotorsports]

I have been trying to figure out if we can take an np205 and a np200 to make a np205 have an offset rear drive shaft output. The np200 where used in 1 1/4 ton military trucks its a divorced case with ofset axles and a band e brake on the rear center out put.

 

[bmzero]

I have been trying to figure out if we can take an np205 and a np200 to make a np205 have an offset rear drive shaft output. The np200 where used in 1 1/4 ton military trucks its a divorced case with ofset axles and a band e brake on the rear center out put.

My initial concern with that for my particular setup would be the extra length of the jack shaft causing driveline angle issues. The 6L80 and 6L90 are already pretty long. I am still working on the transfer case part of my swap. Worst case, I'll throw a D60 in the rear and take the easy way out.

 

[cruisermatt]

My initial concern with that for my particular setup would be the extra length of the jack shaft causing driveline angle issues. The 6L80 and 6L90 are already pretty long. I am still working on the transfer case part of my swap. Worst case, I'll throw a D60 in the rear and take the easy way out.

I would just do the splitcase (stock). Or run an Atlas/D300/(center rear output of your choice) and run the 80 rear axle which is almost centered, its diff is halfway between center and 60 offset. The transfer case in about the stock location with the 6L80e should put your motor in a good spot in the engine bay too.

On the AFM, I forgot the L92 motors don't have it, be glad, I did an L99 swap and we didn't run it and bent a couple pushrods. Had to swap in all normal lifters and such.

 

[bmzero]

On the AFM, I forgot the L92 motors don't have it, be glad, I did an L99 swap and we didn't run it and bent a couple pushrods. Had to swap in all normal lifters and such.

Good to know. Thanks. I would like to avoid tearing into the engine right off the bat.

 

[tmxmotorsports]

What I am saying is us the maited 205 case and put the guts of the 200 inside it an atlas case would be awesome if you have that kind of money.

 

[bmzero]

Made a little progress on the audio and wiring.

Blue Sea fuse panel mounted in the glove box. At some point, I'll build a pocket to the right of the panel. That's why I left the big hole.

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The OEM deck mount brackets are not sufficient to hold the Android Auto head unit in place. I wanted it to be super firm so pressing on the touchscreen wouldn't cause it to move. The Android Auto system will provide navigation, systems monitoring, etc., as well as engine and transmission data for the L92 through a Bluetooth OBDII dongle.

New mount brackets.

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[bmzero]

I also spent a little more time refining my rear panel drawings. Hopefully, I can have those ready to send out for cutting soon.

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[Elbert]

many use the FJ60 transfer case behind V8 swaps with no issues, I know there are various choices,some of which may depend on your rear axle setup, offset rear or centered.

 

[bmzero]

I also went to the local Pull-A-Part and picked up a rear view mirror ($30 w/ temp sender). The OEM mirror in mine had already given up the fight.

I picked up a Gentex 177 (GNTX-177) from a 2000'ish Chevrolet Tahoe. I chose this one because it has auto darkening, compass, and temperature. Plus, on Tahoe's, it's easy to locate the temperature sensor (center of radiator, below hood latch). The sensor is easy to remove and wire back (two wires).

I have not run power to it yet, but should be pretty straightforward. The compass is internal to the mirror assembly.

As a bonus, this mirror came with the cool pine tree scentless emblem as a combo deal! They didn't even charge me for it.

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[bmzero]

I have spent quite a bit of time trying to put a loose plan in place for the remaining parts of this project. I'm pretty solid on the L92 and 6L80, but the remaining parts of the drivetrain have changed. Originally, I was planning on linking and axle swapping (to get a little extra width w/o running a deep offset wheel). After more research and weighing all of the options, I'm leaning toward doing the FJ80 chassis swap. In the grand scheme of things, this should be a little less work than the front and rear links and the final product will be much more in line with my goals for the build. It appears that the most difficult part of the chassis swap is shortening it and building proper body mounts, unless I have overlooked something.

If you guys have any feedback (good or bad) on this change in build plans or suggestions on the frame swap, please let me know.

I made a few superficial updates to the interior this evening.

Finished up the front component speaker installation. I used components so I could separate the highs and put them on the dash to bring the sound up a little.

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Installed a new antenna.

Hard-wired the wireless charging dock to a Samsung adaptive fast charger - will charge to 100% from about 20% on my drive in to work.

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Swapped out the main dome light with a Cyclone light from KC HiLites. I use things all over my builds. They're very versatile and durable.

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The dome light swap is pretty much just a concept at this point. However, if it works well, I will probably design and 3D print a proper housing for it and maybe a second Cyclone to add more light. Doing two lights would also allow me to run a red light on one side and a white on the other, with a switch to change from white to red for nighttime use.

 

[mongoose2231]

Excellent work so far

 

[gregnash]

Damn dude some impressive work. There are a couple swap threads on doing the 80 chassis so look those up.

Made a little progress on the audio and wiring.
The OEM deck mount brackets are not sufficient to hold the Android Auto head unit in place. I wanted it to be super firm so pressing on the touchscreen wouldn't cause it to move. The Android Auto system will provide navigation, systems monitoring, etc., as well as engine and transmission data for the L92 through a Bluetooth OBDII dongle.

New mount brackets.

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So this mount bracket? Is it taking place of the stock ones that were originally connected to the underside of the dash? If so, are they compatible with a standard single din deck? May be interested in having you make me a set if so (and you are up to it).

I also went to the local Pull-A-Part and picked up a rear view mirror ($30 w/ temp sender). The OEM mirror in mine had already given up the fight.

I picked up a Gentex 177 (GNTX-177) from a 2000'ish Chevrolet Tahoe. I chose this one because it has auto darkening, compass, and temperature. Plus, on Tahoe's, it's easy to locate the temperature sensor (center of radiator, below hood latch). The sensor is easy to remove and wire back (two wires).

I have not run power to it yet, but should be pretty straightforward. The compass is internal to the mirror assembly.

As a bonus, this mirror came with the cool pine tree scentless emblem as a combo deal! They didn't even charge me for it.

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Definitely need more details on this one you wire everything up. I know that there are some guys that have purchased the aftermarket Gentex mirrors for the compass or temp usage but I always thought that the autodarkening required a certain type of windshield (has the dot matrix over where the mirror mounts to the glass. Anyways, definitely do a write-up on this when you get some time as my mirror is about ready to give up the ghost as well.

 

[bmzero]

Damn dude some impressive work. There are a couple swap threads on doing the 80 chassis so look those up.

I have tried to read through all of the ones I could find, but my ADD kicks. I just want to see the posts from the builder most of the time. That's why I like www.FollowMyBuild.com. Full disclosure; I own that site.

So this mount bracket? Is it taking place of the stock ones that were originally connected to the underside of the dash? If so, are they compatible with a standard single din deck? May be interested in having you make me a set if so (and you are up to it).

Yes, that's it. The deck I used is actually a single DIN deck. It just has a large display that snaps to the single DIN housing. As for making more, I would need to put them in CAD and have them produced. There's a jog bend in there that is tough to do by hand, especially repeatably. I am actually returning the deck that I'm using now. The capacitive touch buttons don't work. So, when I pull that deck out, I'll pull the brackets and draw them in Solidworks. Do you think anyone else would want some? They should be pretty inexpensive.

Definitely need more details on this one you wire everything up. I know that there are some guys that have purchased the aftermarket Gentex mirrors for the compass or temp usage but I always thought that the autodarkening required a certain type of windshield (has the dot matrix over where the mirror mounts to the glass. Anyways, definitely do a write-up on this when you get some time as my mirror is about ready to give up the ghost as well.

The autodarkening is built directly into the mirror. All you need is power and ground for that part. The same goes for the compass; it is internal as well. The temp sender is the only external component. I am also going to put some LED lights on the bottom of the mirror housing that will open with the door circuit. The center mount dome light doesn't cover very well. There are some mirrors out there (Subaru) that have autodarkening, compass, temp, and lights, but they're huge. I like the simplicity of the 177. I'll try to snap some photos during the wiring.

 

[gregnash]

Thanks dude... For the deck mounting brackets I am sure that there are others that would be interested. Once you get it drawn up in solidworks put up a feeler thread and see what people think. Mine have been missing since day one for me, my deck is not really held in there or mounted securely to it would be nice to have some brackets.

 

[bmzero]

Thanks dude... For the deck mounting brackets I am sure that there are others that would be interested. Once you get it drawn up in solidworks put up a feeler thread and see what people think. Mine have been missing since day one for me, my deck is not really held in there or mounted securely to it would be nice to have some brackets.

If my laser shop can do the jog bend, I'll do that. Either way, I'll share out a flat file for the part. That will allow anyone to print it out (to scale) and transpose it onto some aluminum. These bends are small enough that you can do them in a bench vise.

 

[bmzero]

My first time seeing the KC HiLiTES Cyclone light (dome light) in the dark. One light is definitely enough. Very happy with the light output.