I bet you could beat that front fender back into shape - and not feel any guilt when you chop a hole in it for a snorkel.
FJ60 #2....Rust Bucket Restoration (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter FJ Noob
- Start date
-
- Tags
- 1985 build thread fj60 restore
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
- Thread starter
- #42
- Thread starter
- #43
WON'T START....WHERE DO I BEGIN???
Took an minute to mess with #2 this morning. The PO stated it wouldn't start and didn't have the know-how/time/$$$ to figure it out, hence the killer price. I bought a new battery to replace the 6 yr old one in the truck and put on new terminal clamps in the hopes I could get a cough out of it to begin troubleshooting. No luck. All I get is the buzzer to remind you not to leave the key and absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I poked around under the hood looking for the obvious and didn't see any loose or disconnected wires between battery, ignitor, starter, or distributor. Checked all fuses in the dash and none are blown. On a positive note, the starter looked to be fairly new with no corrosion you'd expect on the outside of 35 yr old metal.
I'll start digging deeper, but wanted to throw this out to the more experienced in the MUD community. Any recommendations where I should focus my trouble-shooting efforts? Any "more than likely" areas I should start with to reduce my trial and error?
I'm 99.9% sure this truck is getting an diesel swap eventually, but I'd like to get the 2F running enough to get back and forth to a body restoration class I'm signed up for at night.
Took an minute to mess with #2 this morning. The PO stated it wouldn't start and didn't have the know-how/time/$$$ to figure it out, hence the killer price. I bought a new battery to replace the 6 yr old one in the truck and put on new terminal clamps in the hopes I could get a cough out of it to begin troubleshooting. No luck. All I get is the buzzer to remind you not to leave the key and absolutely nothing when I turn the key. I poked around under the hood looking for the obvious and didn't see any loose or disconnected wires between battery, ignitor, starter, or distributor. Checked all fuses in the dash and none are blown. On a positive note, the starter looked to be fairly new with no corrosion you'd expect on the outside of 35 yr old metal.
I'll start digging deeper, but wanted to throw this out to the more experienced in the MUD community. Any recommendations where I should focus my trouble-shooting efforts? Any "more than likely" areas I should start with to reduce my trial and error?
I'm 99.9% sure this truck is getting an diesel swap eventually, but I'd like to get the 2F running enough to get back and forth to a body restoration class I'm signed up for at night.
Could be a bad key cylinder. Try hot wiring the starter and see if it will at least turn over.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
- Thread starter
- #46
...
...
...
...
Yeah...I was showing my wife your video of Snowball running right before I wrote this post. She said it sounds beautiful!
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
She’s better be prepared for you to be preoccupied... my wife called Snowball “The other women”. It took a lot of time both waiting for parts and in the thick of the build. Now it’s fun buttoning up loose ends and having a little time here and there. If going with the 4BT and NV4500 call Advanced Adapters and see if they have the NV4500 to FJ60 transfer case adapter ahead of time. They make them when they get a batch together. The guy told me sometimes you may have to wait a few months. Luckily mine was about a month.
- Thread starter
- #48
When I turn the key, I get no movement in the gauge cluster either. At a minimum, I should see the battery needle jump up. Would this be another symptom of a bad key cylinder? I figure the gauges should be "ignition on" not "always on" to prevent killing the battery.
- Thread starter
- #49
I'm quickly approaching my retirement from the Army. I think she'll be glad I have something to do that keeps me out of the house and out of her way!
The contacts in the key cylinder can wear over time and not allow the flow of electricity. How does it feel? Can you feel each setting, start and run? Just a thought, could be a number of things.
- Thread starter
- #51
Good point...it feels pretty smooth from ACC to Start. I figured I'd just start tracing it down the line from the beginning, but like the previous suggestion to isolate it by trying to bypass and jump the starter. Wish I didn't have work tomorrow and could just screw around with this instead.
Hojack
♠️Project Snowball❄️
Is anything electrical working?
- Thread starter
- #54
The buzzer sounds when I have the key in and open the door and the lights work.
I thought about that, so I pulled the link and it all looks intact.
Check continuity on the fusible link.
gregnash
Anal Retentive Analyst
Maybe send the key cylinder to @ToyotaMatt for a rebuild with your keycode from the passenger door cylinder and have a few new keys cut. I would assume that the needle for the volt meter would only move if there is a connection being made that would draw power. So the fact that the starter is not moving and the key is going to the START/RUN position without anything happening leads me to believe that there is a disconnect somewhere.
I agree with @Hojack that you should jumper the starter and ensure that it is getting power enough to kick over. If not then you know that you have a break in the connection elsewhere.
I agree with @Hojack that you should jumper the starter and ensure that it is getting power enough to kick over. If not then you know that you have a break in the connection elsewhere.
- Thread starter
- #57
REACHED A DECISION POINT & LOOKING FOR FEEDBACK....
I was able to track down the previous PO that owned my truck and gave him a call....super nice guy. Still has a bunch of parts he collected and will let me have first dibs on anything I'm interested in. Anyway, he gave me some background on the 2F that's in the truck. Looks like the radiator, starter, carb, and alternator are all fairly new. Says if I get it running, there will be an oil leak at the top of the engine. DECISION POINT REACHED...since I don't need this truck running any time soon and the goal is a diesel swap, I think I'm just going to stop messing with it and pull it. From the experienced 60 owners:
1) What should I keep on-hand for my '87? Part of me says keep the whole thing, but not really feasible.
2) What would be worth trying to part out from the engine? It's a stock 2F with ~250K mi on it.
Next decision to be made...which diesel? I was originally leaning towards a 1HZ to stay with a proven Toyota family engine that fits with little to no modification, but have been reading a lot about Cummins 4BT's. From what I've read, the 4BT's pro's are price, reliability, ease of maintenance, and parts availability. The only cons I've consistently seen are noise, requires adapters etc, and a 4" lift. These "cons" are really minor, but the 4" lift is the only one that concerns me. Again...anybody with experience:
1) Any major "cons" I missed with the 4BT?
2) How much extra work goes into correcting drive-line angles etc when you go to a 4" lift?
3) Did some searching on here and didn't come up with a definitive source for an FJ60 4" lift kit....anybody know of one? MAF has one from OME, but it's listed as "out of stock". I plan on sending a message asking if this is a permanent out of stock.
I'm also working out how to do this as close to a full "frame off" restoration as I can and think going ahead and pulling the engine, trans, etc will make it easier. Looking forward to hearing your input and getting started!!
I was able to track down the previous PO that owned my truck and gave him a call....super nice guy. Still has a bunch of parts he collected and will let me have first dibs on anything I'm interested in. Anyway, he gave me some background on the 2F that's in the truck. Looks like the radiator, starter, carb, and alternator are all fairly new. Says if I get it running, there will be an oil leak at the top of the engine. DECISION POINT REACHED...since I don't need this truck running any time soon and the goal is a diesel swap, I think I'm just going to stop messing with it and pull it. From the experienced 60 owners:
1) What should I keep on-hand for my '87? Part of me says keep the whole thing, but not really feasible.
2) What would be worth trying to part out from the engine? It's a stock 2F with ~250K mi on it.
Next decision to be made...which diesel? I was originally leaning towards a 1HZ to stay with a proven Toyota family engine that fits with little to no modification, but have been reading a lot about Cummins 4BT's. From what I've read, the 4BT's pro's are price, reliability, ease of maintenance, and parts availability. The only cons I've consistently seen are noise, requires adapters etc, and a 4" lift. These "cons" are really minor, but the 4" lift is the only one that concerns me. Again...anybody with experience:
1) Any major "cons" I missed with the 4BT?
2) How much extra work goes into correcting drive-line angles etc when you go to a 4" lift?
3) Did some searching on here and didn't come up with a definitive source for an FJ60 4" lift kit....anybody know of one? MAF has one from OME, but it's listed as "out of stock". I plan on sending a message asking if this is a permanent out of stock.
I'm also working out how to do this as close to a full "frame off" restoration as I can and think going ahead and pulling the engine, trans, etc will make it easier. Looking forward to hearing your input and getting started!!
- Thread starter
- #60
You’re both right. I read so many other posts, I totally forgot about Snowball.
