Problems with 75 FJ40 (1 Viewer)

[TXCruiser]

Hello, been reading threads for a while, but this is my first post. I bought a 75 FJ40 on eBay in Nov. Had it shipped from SC to TX and received it a few days before Christmas. PO said it was "newly restored" and from the pics it certainly looked that way. Upon arrival, while it DOES look good in person, I could tell the work was/is amateurish. The truck is a combination of original and modifications: has the original engine with a Webber 38 carb (he off-roaded alot), new wiring harness, front disc brakes Piaa lights, modern stereo with iPod attachment (improperly wired), and some other neato stuff.

Let me get to the point: I immediately changed the oil and spark plugs before really driving it anywhere. It drove great for a few days, then one day I was driving down the road and it completely died on me. It wouldn't restart so I called the local LC specialist shop while I waited. About 20 minutes later, it started up and I was able to drive it home. It did it again a few days later, so I took it to the LC shop. The next day the owner/mechanic called me and said I was headed toward a engine replacement with head compressions that ranged from 105 to 140 nd major engine blow by. The PO (or someone) had put stop leak in the radiator and sealed the air filter housing to the top of the carb to prevent air (it doesn't seat properly otherwise). And it runs really rich. I was able to drive it home and about a week later it died again and refused to start soback to the LC shop we go. Initially, he thought the fuel pump went out, but upon further inspection saw that it wasn't grounded or wired properly. He fixed that and also replaced the distributor cap, rotor, and points. I drove 11 miles from the shop to my work and 23 miles from work to home with no problem, then an hour after I got home, I jump in the truck, get mile down the road and BAM BAM BAM it died on me again. Started right up, but wanted to die. I was able to get him (I'm female) turned around and slowly chugged him back home -- little power and died a few more times. LC mechanic came to my house and reset the points and distributor and it ran fine for a few days and died again. Another shop that was working on my 72 Scout suggested I get an electronic distributor so I bought a DUI distributor and Live Wires. LC mechanic installed it and it ran fine for a few days and died again (see the pattern yet?). I should point out that when he removed the other distributor the points were burnt out. I haven't taken it back to the LC shop yet, but he thinks it could be the gas tank because it has a bunch of crud in it. Another shop I took it too said it might be the crappy wiring job but they haven't been abl to recreate the problem to know for sure.

What do y'all think it could be? I am sure I am leaving alot of info out. I am not mechanically inclined...I just like driving old trucks. I use my 72 Scout primarily as a work truck and in the 3+ years I've owned it (daily driver), I've had very few problems. So I wanted a "restored" vehicle and that's why I bought this. Not that I expect it to be problem free, but I did expect it to be in better shape for what the PO said it was and for what I paid for it.

Appreciate any feedback...

 

[Poser]

Welcome.

I would verify proper fuel delivery. I take it you have an electric fuel pump? Are there any fuel filters between the tank and pump and pump and carburetor? You could have garbage in the float bowl of the Weber carburetor as well.

Any chance you could post up some pictures of your engine area and areas you have been talking about?

 

[RWBeringer4x4]

Between the weird air cleaner seal, the running rich, intermittent stalling, sounds almost like its flooding.

 

[3jvj]

Sounds fuel related to me as well.

Nice rig.
Welcome to mud

 

[SouthMS40]

Maybe it's just me, but with the short list that you did provide the radiator, air cleaner, and shotty wiring it sounds like it needs a good going through and cleaning up. There's no telling what else has been done, or not done to this thing. When I bought my first 40 someone did a hack job on the wiring and a weenie roast inside my front cowl later I had to rewire it all.

From the information that you've given, I'd recommend getting the air/fuel ratio where it needs to be. Sounds like instead of getting air to the carb and adjusting it correctly they just turned up the fuel until they got it to run. Also have the fuel system cleaned and replace all of your rubber hoses. If it's had E-10 gas in it and the rubbers are older you might have a line that is collapsing somewhere starving the carb.

Welcome to Cruiser mania.

 

[Weber Sarge]

Post up some pics of the carb setup , we'll go from there .
Sarge

 

[Larr75fj40]

Well, you might tell us a little more about the ignition you are running. If you have the ignition from the '70s you need a ballast resistor or you will continue to burn up points or coils.

 

[Poser]

Another shop that was working on my 72 Scout suggested I get an electronic distributor so I bought a DUI distributor and Live Wires.

Well, you might tell us a little more about the ignition you are running. If you have the ignition from the '70s you need a ballast resistor or you will continue to burn up points or coils.

 

[Larr75fj40]

distributor is one thing but are you running a coil? Or something like fireball points conversion? If your running a coil there should be some white heat resisters present . They'll keep your points from getting fried!

 

[Poser]

distributor is one thing but are you running a coil? Or something like fireball points conversion? If your running a coil there should be some white heat resisters present . They'll keep your points from getting fried!

You are not familiar with GM HEI are you?

That is what the DUI distributor unit is.

It has a coil, and is electronic ignition.

There are not any points used in this distributor.

 

[91 4runner]

so if you have a good ignition system i would turn to fueling, i had rust in my fuel lines and it would cause my float valve needle to stick open and flood my 2F, a few inline filters and some new line fixed it, there is a drain plug under the passenger side for the fuel tank, pull it and catch the gas in a pan to see if you have major rust scale problem.

 

[edwjmcgrath]

You are surely getting some bad advice-I'm suspecting that you have a relative straightforward problem-once you get it figured out. It looks like an otherwise nice truck!
1. Just as surely as we are all headed toward death, we are headed toward an engine rebuild eventually, but your compression numbers do not speak of a sudden death, nor are they likely the cause of your stalling.
2. When you say "Bam, Bam, Bam" were you getting loud backfiring from either the carburetor or exhaust or just some other noise indication poor running?
3. The fact that this happened with the original distributor and the new electronic distributor certainly points toward a fuel problem rather than ignition.
4. It's possible that you have either a fuel deficiency or too much fuel. Schmutz in the tank can clog the fuel filter or a pre-filter on the carb. This would starve the engine of fuel. The symptom of this problem would usually be that you can idle or run at low RPM's but not high RPMs. Simple way to start with this problem is to replace the fuel filter with a new CLEAR inline filter. CLEAR so that you can see when it gets clogged down the road. These are very cheap and can be installed with almost no tools.
Too much fuel is also a potential problem. This can happen if the fuel pressure is too high (WeberSarge is very knowledgeable on these carbs and may be able to help if you post pics of your carb and fuel pump). It can also happen if this schmutz makes its way into the carb and causes the float valve to stick open and overfill the carb bowl. What are the conditions (idle or high speed?) under which this problem occurs?

 

[fishpro]

TX, check out this link. Mike was having a similar issue. Welcome to MUD...Steve
https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/608432-lovin-66-a.html

 

[Sepuku]

?????????

 

[Larr75fj40]

You are not familiar with GM HEI are you?

That is what the DUI distributor unit is.

It has a coil, and is electronic ignition.

There are not any points used in this distributor.


[/QUOTE

Who was talking about the DUI distributor? I was talking about the original distributor.

 

[Poser]

OK Larr


Original distributor was removed and is no longer in use, according to the OP.

 

[TXCruiser]

Update on 75 FJ40

Thank you gentlemen. Sorry for my delayed response, but in between my original post and now I accepted a job in California and relocated. Shipped the FJ and just received it yesterday. Started right up and drove fine. Then this morning, I turned the key, could hear the fuel pump humming, but nothing else. Opened the hood, checked battery connections, DUI connections, and possible loose wires (from what I could see), and about 5 minutes later she started up again.

I appreciate all the responses and will look into getting the fuel tank checked out, put in a clear fuel pump, and get the lines cleaned and see if that corrects the problem. Since my initial post, the truck hasn't done the stalling thing. I took it to a shop that had it for 3 weeks trying to recreate the problem and it never happened for them and hasn;t stalled on me since I've had it back. We'll see if the non-starting incident this morning repeats itself when I leave work.

I will post some pics of the engine, carb, fuel pump, etc. when I get a chance to take some.

If there is anyone from the Bay Area who knows of a good shop in the South Bay/Santa Clara area, I'd appreciate it. There is a shop in the northeast Bay in Concord, but that's a bit of a hike to take this.

 

[ARCTICMUTT]

I'd loose the Weber and go with either a Trollhole or a factory Aisin rebuilt.

 

[TXCruiser]

What's a "Trollhole"?

Never heard of a trollhole. The PO put the Weber 38 on it because he off-roaded it alot.

Also, separate question...I know I don't need to smog my vehicle in Cali because it's a '75, but the PO removed the smog equipment and I would like to add it back on because the exhaust smells horrible. Any thoughts?

 

[Chamba]

Never heard of a trollhole. The PO put the Weber 38 on it because he off-roaded it alot.

Also, separate question...I know I don't need to smog my vehicle in Cali because it's a '75, but the PO removed the smog equipment and I would like to add it back on because the exhaust smells horrible. Any thoughts?

That smell is likely a rich mixture (Webers are famous for running rich or lean, though not very well known for running well in my opinion). A 'Trollhole carb' (put that in your search criteria and you will go right to it) will probably solve a whole bunch of your problems. You will probably have to get the factory linkages (although Trollhole makes a version which will work with a cable) and factory air cleaner, but you are in the right place to do so. Give Specter a ring at 818-882-1238 and get the extra bits you need, order a Trollhole carb and then see if that solves the smell. My bet is it will.