Problems Timing Injection Pump (1HZ) (1 Viewer)

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I just got my injection pump rebuilt and am having some trouble. I believe it is the timing of the injection pump I am having problems with but I could be wrong.
Here is where I am at... (White smoke and no power, runs slightly rough), before the rebuild it was very smooth and would start with the slightest bump of the key.

  • Everything is bolted back on, I double checked the timing of the engine and all the timing marks align except the cam gear appears to be a tiny bit off. It may have been like that before I put the new belt on but I did not notice. If it would be on any other tooth it would be way off I think (view attached picture). In any case I think the timing is right but wanted to include that bit of info.

  • I had originally set the timing of the pump to 1.06 on the dial indicator but it seemed to jump around a bit as I would spin the motor counter clockwise to zero out the gauge and then back. Say from 1.06 to 1.11.

  • So I set it for 1.06 and primed the system with the pump on top of the filter. Took a few tries to get it to start, it ran rough and poured white smoke out of the tail pipe. Drove it around the block a few times, white smoke and when you floor it almost nothing would happen.

  • Came back and checked the pump timing, it was now at 1.13. Reset it back to 1.06 and tightened everything back up. Tried to start it and it would not stay running.

  • Rebuilder removed the ACSD but don't think that would have effect on anything.
So this is where I am at now. I know the that white smoke is unburnt diesel but I am not sure where to go from here. What am I missing? Air in the lines still?
Any advice would great, this is my first diesel and feel a bit in over my head.

Thanks again,
~Al :beer:
 
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Onur

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Yeah, this sounds like an “air in the system” issue.

It take quite awhile to remove air from the fuel system once it’s been opened up at the IP.

Crack each fuel line at the fitting as you crank it over and make sure you are getting fuel spitting out as you crank it over.

Once you have fuel spewing out, then retighten fitting. Do for all 6 injectors.

Fuel cutoff solenoid is connected I assume (electrical connection at IP).

Make sure to pump the heck out of the pump on top of the fuel filter— basically till you cannot pump it anymore.
 
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Removed all glow plugs at the moment. Got aspirated diesel shooting out of all of them. Working on putting it back together now. Report back shortly. Thanks for help.

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GLTHFJ60

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The injectors "pop" at a specified pressure, and if there's air in the lines, it won't be able to reach that pressure easily. Good that you have diesel coming out of the glow plugs, but I'm not sure that's a replacement for cracking the injector lines.

Not familiar with how to time the 1HZ, but every time I've run my diesel out of fuel, I have similar symptoms until I crack the injector lines, and crank a bunch before tightening them, to get the air out.
 
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Alrighty, I did a little research and read that was an acceptable practice (before Glthfj60 and Onur posted up). But I will go through 1 injector line at a time at the nozzle and loosen while cranking the motor over.

I double checked the timing of the timing belt again. Even redid it just to be sure. Checked per manual spec (rotating the motor and making sure they all align). Pretty confident everything is good there.

Also checking the timing of the injection pump. I am not getting anywhere close to where its suppose to be. I am not sure what I am doing wrong....


  1. Screw in gauge (SST and Dial Caliper)
  2. Rotate motor to TDC off of the mark on the Crank
  3. Rotate the motor counter clockwise till the gauge stops moving (having trouble here)... As I start to rotate the motor counterclockwise the dial gauge rotates about .07 counter clockwise then starts to rotate clockwise. It will rotate clockwise for two dial rotations (2.0 -2.17) before the needle will stop moving and will start to rotate back clockwise.
  4. Zero Gauge and start rotating clockwise back to TDC off of the crank. Once I am at TDC the gauge will read 2.13mm.
At this point I am full 1.05 mm out of adjustment. As I loosen and rotate the pump I get about .14mm of adjustment nowhere near enough to get me into spec.

I am honestly confused of what I am doing wrong here?



While I wait for some advice from you guys I will work on cracking each injector connection at a time to purge any remaining air.
Thanks again,
~Al
 

db3

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Are you sure your timing marks are lined up perfectly? When I've done the injection pump, I've found the pump would not line up with the key when the timing marks are lined up. I had to rotate the pump gear slightly to actually mount the pump. Once mounted, I rotated the gear back to the timing mark. When I first pulled the pump, the last person to install the pump did not do this, and obviously used an impact gun to tighten the nut, damaging the key. Photo attached of the damaged key.

DSC01731.jpg
 
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If you have good strong plumes of diesel coming out the glow plug holes, you can consider it bled. However if the there is a place where air is still leaking in, you will need to track it down.

but I'm not sure that's a replacement for cracking the injector lines.
It is from FSM, although it says you only need to remove 3 glow plugs to bleed the fuel system, but I always take 6 out. When you remove the glow plugs , the engine cranks over at a much faster spin and removes the air as if the engine was running. You also get to visually affirm diesel is coming out of the injectors.
 
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Alright well I found my problem. I somehow installed the pump with the key not perfectly in the keyway I am guessing. The key is destroyed and welded to the shaft of the pump. I’m not sure how this happened but I did not use an impact to run it down just a torque wrench. Trying to get the woodruff key out now with not much luck.
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Worse comes to worse how hard will it be to swap this shaft out? I would assume I have to get it pressure tested afterwards? Looks like the shaft is available. 22170-54180

I am pounding on it but its not budging, removed some material from the center of it in hopes of releasing stress but still did not work. Hard to tell what is shaft and what is key. Feeling pretty defeated at the moment :meh:
 
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Take it to a machinist. But if the pump rebuilder is near by, ask him, they probably see this all the time. The pump needs a full strip down if you replace the shaft.
Is the woodruffe key the correct key? I cant see how the original would sit flush with the shaft.

I would tape the bearing up to stop small pieces of metal getting in there
 
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Take it to a machinist. But if the pump rebuilder is near by, ask him, they probably see this all the time. The pump needs a full strip down if you replace the shaft.
Is the woodruffe key the correct key? I cant see how the original would sit flush with the shaft.

I would tape the bearing up to stop small pieces of metal getting in there


I bought a new one from Toyota, but the pump came with one already in it so I assumed it was the right one. If the planets align and I am able to get it out I do have an original key to put in. If not, it looks like I need to source another pump and get this one rebuilt at a later date.
 

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