Problems post tune-up (1 Viewer)

[ssbob]

(Warning: wall of text)


Got some issues post tune-up.

I ordered parts from the parts Shaman and installed the cap, rotor, and plugs as one would normally install them.

However while moving the hoses above plug #6 (heater control valve) the valve housing itself snapped. Fortunatly I was able to find a replacement and install it. However now when I go to start the truck I find coolant under the truck, and the coolant gauge needle climbs right to the top of the normal range immediatly. Also the engine runs very ruff. I have double checked the plugs, they are in, hand tight, and in the right order wire wise. (6 - 1 from rear to front)

Any thoughts? The wires are '05 so they are new and pre tune-up I did not notice any rough idle or issues like what I am seeing now. The previous owner had platinum plugs in it but I don't see how putting coppers would make a significant difference other than perhaps less detonation (on a '93 LC). I am going to tear into the hose connections near the water valve (heater control valve) but other than the leak, can anyone think of anything else I missed? The rotor only goes on one way, the cap is snug and the connections are as well, I did the remove one wire, and put it on the new cap, rinse repeat procedure. I have also double checked so I am pretty confident that I have the wires on right. I am at a loss as to what next so I am hoping the level of genius present here on the boards can guide me towards an easy and happy ending.

Thanks

Sean

 

[sundaypunch]

Your overheating might be due to having an air bubble in the cooling system? If you top it off you can run it with the cap off for a while to try and help burp it.

Rough idle after the tune up sounds like a bad plug or wires mixed up / not seated properly. I had a rough idle problem once after replacing plugs in a Saturn. I ended up pulling the plugs and finding a hairline crack in the ceramic on one. It looked like it had been dropped at some point.

 

[ssbob]

Good ideas

Thanks,

That does make sense, an air bubble could definitly be the culprit especially since I had the coolant system open at some point with the water valve being replaced and it was near the top of the system. I will try leaving the cap off and making sure the system is charged.

I will also check the plugs, it is just such a pain in the you know what on those back plugs.

I will try that tomorrow and see if that helps.

Sean

 

[CJF]

I am going to tear into the hose connections near the water valve (heater control valve) but other than the leak

The leak is the issue.

Don't over think it. Find/fix the leak.

Curtis

 

[ssbob]

I think I found the leak

While running the engine with the rad cap off I noticed what I think is the leak. It appears to be the water valve I just replaced, in any event its under warranty so I am taking it back this afternoon to be replaced. Hopefully this resolves the leak. While it is off I will tackle pulling the plugs one at a time and looking them over. I plan on picking up a couple extra plugs (NGK's cause most places don't carry Denso) to get me through a week or so until I can order some extras from Dan.

Anyone have any other ideas? I think this is a good plan.

Sean

 

[ssbob]

Update

Ok so I have double and tripple checked each plug, wire, and the cap/rotor. Everything checks out.

So when driving normally its fine but when your at idle there seems to be some sort of "lope" almost like an aftermarket cam on a v8. Took it into the mechanic this morning (since this is beyond my banana level) and he concured, says the tune-up looks kosher. Suggested fill up tank with premium fuel, and run it hard on the freeway incase there was a piece of something in a fuel line or something that was lodged loose or whatever.

Says if there is still the same issue bring it back on Monday.

Any thoughts?

Sean

 

[stlcruiser]

Greetings:

For rough running, check big black tube from air cleaner to throttle body. May have cracked or split when taking it off to get to the plugs. Inspect in thouroughly as a crack can be conceled in its pleats.

Steve
94'
190,000

 

[ssbob]

Will do

Ok, that makes sense, it was off and on quite a bit during testing. I will double check it.

Sean

 

[IdahoDoug]

Yep, cracked the pleated section of the big intake tube on the bottom, I expect.

DougM

 

[ssbob]

Is this crack in the pleat (assuming I have it) duct-tape'able for a quick fix, or is it simply a replace type job?

Sean

 

[stlcruiser]

Greetings:

Duct tape will get you going. Make sure its airtight. Ultimately you should replace it.

Steve
94'
185,000

 

[ssbob]

Ok so I found a couple of very small tears in the pleats ... put some duct tape but I don't think it stuck very good as it still has the lopy idle. I will get a quote from Dan while working on this further.

Sean

 

[CJF]

"More duct tape!!"



Seriously: Wrap that sucker.

 

[ssbob]

Alright "more duct tape used" it is mildly better. I called over to Dan's place and he is on vacation (unfortunatly) to get a quote for a new one.

In the mean time I will not be doing my engine any harm by running it as is will I?

Sean