but time for a new driveshaft? Its making some wonky noises and my rig has suddenly started vibrating when accelerating. No rumble in neutral or idle. I'm hoping its just this.
Probably a stupid question (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter senatedestroyer
- Start date
This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.
jfz80
Cruisin’
Can’t say from those pics alone
Sounds like possible u-joints. Could be several things. Did you grab it and try to diagnose any movement in the spiders/yokes? You could try to grease the zirks to see if it subsides. Or pull one at a time to see which is the offender if no movement is detected. Will need to lock the ctr diff to drive with only one shaft installed.
Sounds like possible u-joints. Could be several things. Did you grab it and try to diagnose any movement in the spiders/yokes? You could try to grease the zirks to see if it subsides. Or pull one at a time to see which is the offender if no movement is detected. Will need to lock the ctr diff to drive with only one shaft installed.
Can you feel any play in the ujoint? If you can drop it, and rotate it every which way, you may feel a catch. If it’s really ready to be replaced, you can usually feel it without dropping it. Just put pressure in all directions, and if you feel it give in one area it likely needs replaced. There’s a good thread on here, maybe in FAQ, about replacing them if you’re mechanical.
DivByZero
SILVER Star
I'll add though, if your driveshaft is in need of attention, you're probably better off just buying a new genuine driveshaft from Toyota, and keeping this one as a spare for a rebuild on your own time. These shafts are still available for now (but probably not much longer!), and for a very good price through partsouq. $608AUD for a brand new Toyota genuine driveshaft ready to drop into my 80. If you have to pay for the work, rebuilding won't be cheaper. You can do it cheaper yourself, but if you're the kind of guy who does that, you'll probably appreciate dropping the cash on a new one and having the spare.
LandLocked93
SILVER Star
I can tell from the pic the front shaft yoke zerk hasn't been touched in quite a while.
OE quality u/js can be had for under a hundred a pair. Install (of the u/js) in my area was $50.
Prob just greasing the yoke about 5 or 6 pumps could help you tell if that's the prob or the u/js. Not too much tho. If the yoke starts to slide before the 5th pump, stop! If it doesn't move at all, test drive and re-eval.
If it's the yoke, need a new shaft. If its the u/js, just replace and carry on.
04371-60210 - Spider kit, U-Joint, Rear
04371-60070 - Spider kit, U-Joint, Front
I think mine were Matsuba, but there are one or two other OE-equivalents.
OE quality u/js can be had for under a hundred a pair. Install (of the u/js) in my area was $50.
Prob just greasing the yoke about 5 or 6 pumps could help you tell if that's the prob or the u/js. Not too much tho. If the yoke starts to slide before the 5th pump, stop! If it doesn't move at all, test drive and re-eval.
If it's the yoke, need a new shaft. If its the u/js, just replace and carry on.
04371-60210 - Spider kit, U-Joint, Rear
04371-60070 - Spider kit, U-Joint, Front
I think mine were Matsuba, but there are one or two other OE-equivalents.
Don't hesitate replacing a u-joint or two. I had a similar situation and replaced the defective part and away I went. Until the spline is shot, this strikes me as the way to go. You can always replace the driveshaft if nothing else works.
might be a good idea to take both driveshafts out, take them to a local driveshaft shop. Replace the U-joints and re-balance.
DS wear can do what you are describing. but as @LandLocked93 it doesn't look like its been touched for a while... @mjosoba gave a good recommendation on diagnosis..
DS wear can do what you are describing. but as @LandLocked93 it doesn't look like its been touched for a while... @mjosoba gave a good recommendation on diagnosis..
- Thread starter
- #8
UPDATE:
Isolate the noise to the rear driveshaft, possibly the front u-joint. Further digging showed that the vibration could be attributed to a s*** u-joint.... also i forgot that it all started with my rig squeaking when backing up a few months ago... i guess this is the "down the road" scenario im in now. Actually found parts for it through advanced auto parts for 30ish bucks a pop! Going to grab them now and will update again once resolved... whether it be the universals or something else all together. Figured I would swap out both rear driveshaft joints just to be on the safe side. Thanks everyone for your input/collective knowledge and WILLINGNESS to help! The comradery of this community always astounds me!~
Isolate the noise to the rear driveshaft, possibly the front u-joint. Further digging showed that the vibration could be attributed to a s*** u-joint.... also i forgot that it all started with my rig squeaking when backing up a few months ago... i guess this is the "down the road" scenario im in now. Actually found parts for it through advanced auto parts for 30ish bucks a pop! Going to grab them now and will update again once resolved... whether it be the universals or something else all together. Figured I would swap out both rear driveshaft joints just to be on the safe side. Thanks everyone for your input/collective knowledge and WILLINGNESS to help! The comradery of this community always astounds me!~
- Thread starter
- #9
it doesn't budge regardless of where i put force.
Good call to just replace it. You can still drive it in FWD if needed with the rear shaft out. Can also be used to isolate which one. I’d do one, put it back in, then pull the other. If you can’t feel any give, it might just be in the early stages. Either way, cheap insurance.
You need to test this with the drive line UNLOADED.
Truck on level ground
Truck in neutral
Wheels chocked
Parking brake set
Grab each end of the shaft and move vertically and the horizontally.
The rotate each end and observe rotation OTHER than pinion and axle gear lash. Watch the u-joints closely while doing this.
Any vertical or horizontal movement means it's dead.
Repeat with other shaft.
- Thread starter
- #12
Swapped it the U-joint out yesterday and problem solved! Thank you all for the input!
