Price check on 95 80 Series (1 Viewer)

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate
links, including eBay, Amazon, Skimlinks, and others.

Joined
Jul 23, 2015
Threads
4
Messages
145
Location
Detroit
I am going to look at this truck today, they are asking $9500 which seems a bit steep.

DSC078291-640x450.jpg

1995 Toyota Land Cruiser - Swan Import Auto Service & Sales

It has (relatively) low miles and is a one owner, but is missing lockers and best I can tell hasn't had the head gasket replaced or the phh. I reached out to the shop and they responded:

"We performed these repairs on this car :
New Oil change, Valve cover gasket, Spark plugs, Spark plugs wires, Distributor cap, Distributor rotors, 2 Heater core, Front brake and much more.
Under body of this SUV is free of rust and damage."

Besides the standard driving checks I am going to check the axles for bad seals, the knuckles, the frame and other panels for rust or signs of repair. Any thing else? I am familiar with the slee buyers guide.

What's the going rate for what appears to be an unmolested FZJ80?
 
It varies on location. But this price seems high just by glancing at it. I bought a 95 here in the NorthWest without any rust for $4k. $9.5k without lockers (or even with) seems high. But maybe its "super cherry"?
 
Do you plan on leaving it stock or doing some overlanding with it?

My opinion is for the price you can find something with closer to 200k miles...but armored, locked, lifted, and most importantly, well-cared for from someone on here that can give you the history.

I don't like small mom n pop dealerships. I feel like they just grab mystery cars from auctions and mark them up 60%.
 
Do you plan on leaving it stock or doing some overlanding with it?

My opinion is for the price you can find something with closer to 200k miles...but armored, locked, lifted, and most importantly, well-cared for from someone on here that can give you the history.

I don't like small mom n pop dealerships. I feel like they just grab mystery cars from auctions and mark them up 60%.

It would be a Daily Drive (not counting vacations I am sub 5000 miles a year)/slow build. I have a 98 tacoma 4x4 that I would like this to replace.

I feel the same about the little corner dealers. Carfax tells me this car was bought at auction from Maryland.
 
In the San Francisco area, for a clean, single owner, relatively low miles truck, the price isn't over the top, but everything if over priced here. As for Macomb County Michigan, it seems a little high. Look for rust under the rear corners behind the tires and the bottom of the tailgate.

If you're planning to build an expedition or rock crawling truck, I agree with Tanner H. You can buy a truck with many mods bought and installed for much cheaper than you could buy them.

Good luck....post what you end up buying !!
 
You can find 3x locked 80's in the bay area on craigslist for 7k and under if you're patient.
 
I don't feel there is anything about this 80 that warrants that price. Low miles are good but I don't feel it's worth their markup. I would imagine they are into this for well under $5k. Not sure how long you've been shopping but I would keep shopping if you can't get at least a 25%-30% reduction in that price. Good Luck and happy hunting.
 
I've been shopping on and off for about a year now. There just aren't a lot in my area that aren't totally ragged or rotted out.

I was planning to go in with an $8000 offer, but based on some of this feedback I will probably drop it to $7500. This is all based on it being as advertised of course. I am in no hurry so if they don't take it I can let them sit on the offer for a bit and see if they budge.
 
boy even $7500 seems (imho) a bit high....

mileage is good but without a better documented service history - I personally would go a bit lower $5000 tops ???
(steering wheel looks great but - am curious why the 3rd row seat looks so frazzled - most of ours are near pristine as no one ever uses them)
2 other areas of concern - dizzy-oring and crank & oil pump seal. if you see some wetness on top of the bottom cover
then you will know there is a slight leak (quite common) if you don't have some skillz - those repairs (although not dire) could be $1500+ at dealership.

then of course factor in your own "addiction" fixes to your budget.... full fluid flush (rad, trans, brakes, steering - Toyota red coolant is super pricey as is some 12 gallons of trans fluid if you do the complete flush) h/u upgade (a must imho), phh and heater hoses, knuckle / hub rebuild, fan clutch + water pump + thermo stat

then there are the x-factor fixes.... my starter died ~180k as have various odd, switches, and ends (the pump for my ws washer).

in the end - lest the seller has a binder of documents noting service history - push for much lower $$$

bF
 
Awesome. Thanks for the tips. Luckily I don't have to HAVE this vehicle so I can go in with open eyes and maybe move their price.
 
I just picked up a one owner, bone stock, unmolested, fully locked, meticulously serviced at dealership including a binder of receipts, 1993 FZJ80 with only 176k miles yesterday for $5,500 in the Seattle area.
 
The problem is that you are only looking in your area, drive! Find something good and go get it and drive it back, enjoy the drive in your new cool rig!
Find something and ask the owner to pick you up from the airport.
 
I just picked up a one owner, bone stock, unmolested, fully locked, meticulously serviced at dealership including a binder of receipts, 1993 FZJ80 with only 176k miles yesterday for $5,500 in the Seattle area.
Well, that's a hell of a good buy.
 
The mileage IS good, and will reflect its resale value with you as the owner too. But, IMO, the HG situation is the key component here. Either it has had a HG job or you're going to do one. Period. I prefer to buy an 80 knowing it needs a HG (verified via oil analysis unless it's obvious). Unless you are a confident wrencher, get an oil sample on this rig and send it off ASAP. At that price I doubt it's going to sell too fast.
 
Rust free and from Detroit or Imported from elsewhere?

block-test.jpg
 
I'm about 55 miles south of you, and mine had 180K and I paid $5K from a shady dealership. You really have to know what your buying. Fold back those rubber pieces below back doors and check rockers.
 
Hornd, don't want to disrespect, but those Block Tester kits don't seem to be worth their cost or results. Search around on Mud.
For ~$28 an oil sample will give you a real picture of overall engine health.
A rust free 80, with a strong engine and clean interior is worth what you'll pay for it, and values are going up.
 
The mileage IS good, and will reflect its resale value with you as the owner too. But, IMO, the HG situation is the key component here. Either it has had a HG job or you're going to do one. Period. I prefer to buy an 80 knowing it needs a HG (verified via oil analysis unless it's obvious). Unless you are a confident wrencher, get an oil sample on this rig and send it off ASAP. At that price I doubt it's going to sell too fast.

I think the HG failure being phrased as eminent is misleading. My 1995 with 250k is on original head gasket and no issues. There are more 80s with original head gaskets than have had to replace them. It could happen, but :meh: it may not. If the cost of having to do it after buying the truck would be a financial burden then buy a 100 series since you paying for one at this price anyway.:)
 
My white 97 was a Michigan truck its whole life and has less rust underneath than my 97 Collectors from Missouri. Cruisers respond well to being washed. It is possible it is really a nice truck, but it that price, it has to be REALLY nice. Do a Searchtempest look for trucks in the Atlanta to northern Alabama sweep. There can be a ton for sale and a lot of nice rigs. That is not real far to travel vs. heading west. Stay away from the Mississippi valley region, IME it's o.k. but too humid even though out of the salt somewhat. The search is totally fun so it's good not to be in a hurry, so it's good you're not. Good luck!
 

Users who are viewing this thread

Back
Top Bottom