preventing rust from comming back on crome wheels (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter rustybucket
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Have any of you tried stripping & painting with tires till on? Any luck?
- Thread starter
- #23
Painting the wheels has not come to mind. I would rather continue on and get this done right. I spent two hours building what looks like a wooden crate but it was designed to hold a tarp. I filled it with water and put in the soda wash then tried a 1.5 amp charger on it. Got no rust comming off a sample piece of metal. Sooo, I think I need a much stronger charger like 5-10 amps.
Second, I found a aluminum mesh screen. Can I use this to line the walls of my container and use it as the positive cathode?
Second, what is some tough paint I can use on under truck sheet metal parts?
Second, I found a aluminum mesh screen. Can I use this to line the walls of my container and use it as the positive cathode?
Second, what is some tough paint I can use on under truck sheet metal parts?
No, you don't want to use aluminum as the cathode, only steel (s/s works best but produces some chromium compounds which may be nasty), or carbon works as well but don't use copper coated welding rods because the copper will get into the solution and deposit itself on your work piece.
Yes, a charger that'll supply 10 amps is best.
Bill
- Thread starter
- #25
was going to use really large galvanized spikes as the cathode
But then, the zinc may precipitate from the really large spikes. I have some bed rail angle iron in storage. I can take it out, strip the paint off then use that as the cathode.
Just waiting for the charger as it will be a loaner.
But then, the zinc may precipitate from the really large spikes. I have some bed rail angle iron in storage. I can take it out, strip the paint off then use that as the cathode.
Just waiting for the charger as it will be a loaner.
- Thread starter
- #26
well, I am not testing my new electrolysis tank on the rusty rock guard. I notice, that the bubble action only happens to the metal guard closest to the anode "rebar". So, I guess I will have to surround the walls of the box with several pieces of rebar and wire them up.
Make sure you have enough washing sode in the solution. I use 1 tbsp per gallon. Make sure you've got the negative connected to the piece you're trying to clean. If you supplying 10 amps to it, it should show 2-5 on the meter. If it's less than that try improving the contact points on both sides. You shouldn't have to line the bucket with rebar.
- Thread starter
- #28
It worked good last night
At first, was getting little current flow on one borrowed more modern batt charger. I disconected that one, and used a much older one and it worke putting out 2-3 amps to the part. Was very pleased that I can see shiny metal where rust was. I do think there needs to be at least two rebars on either side of the part as the side of the rock shield closest to the anode had most rust removed. Also, do you know if the solution should have a cirtain PH level on it?
Now, have you only used this tub of water and solution once? or did you reuse it for the rest of the wheels? I will now try it on my wheels on my truck.
BTW, is there a organic paint stripper on the market?
At first, was getting little current flow on one borrowed more modern batt charger. I disconected that one, and used a much older one and it worke putting out 2-3 amps to the part. Was very pleased that I can see shiny metal where rust was. I do think there needs to be at least two rebars on either side of the part as the side of the rock shield closest to the anode had most rust removed. Also, do you know if the solution should have a cirtain PH level on it?
Now, have you only used this tub of water and solution once? or did you reuse it for the rest of the wheels? I will now try it on my wheels on my truck.
BTW, is there a organic paint stripper on the market?
you can keep reusing the same solution, the electrolyte is not consumed. PH is not important, the electric will talk the oxygen off your steel.
- Thread starter
- #30
Okay thanks for that info on changing the water. It did a good job on the steel. Unfortunately, it did not get the last tiny bit. I cleaned it with a brass brush where the wheel disk joints the rim and the other part that is just above it where I suspect, rain water rest just above it and start the corrosion process. I put the wheel in the tank one more time. Then take it out, use some clr to get the last of it, then wax the heck out of it.
Lastly, what is a good off the shelf chrome polish for wheels?
I was looking at you tube regarding the chrome plating technique, when I came across this interesting video. It does not involve chrome spray can or Chrome Electrolysis methods, but applying silver solution with a spray bottle?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lG6O5lvhm8&feature=related
Lastly, what is a good off the shelf chrome polish for wheels?
I was looking at you tube regarding the chrome plating technique, when I came across this interesting video. It does not involve chrome spray can or Chrome Electrolysis methods, but applying silver solution with a spray bottle?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9lG6O5lvhm8&feature=related
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