Pretty quiet in here... what are you working on? (11 Viewers)

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Replaced the starter contacts on my '96 LX. Damn glad I didn't have to do that task on the side of the road, at night. 'Twas a wee bit difficult reaching those 2 mounting bolts.
How hard is to take the starter out? I wan to replace mine but every time I've got under the truck and looked at it the top bolt make me change my mind. I know, I sound pathetic.
 
@apinti Pathetic Wrencher is my real first name. The trick to the top bolt is to remove the wheel and the rear section of fender liner, then gather a variety of ratchet extensions and a “U-joint looking bendy swivel thing” for it. Of course, the bottom bolt ain’t fun, either. My ratchet had literally a 1-click throw in that bottom space. I think a ratchet upgrade is in order.

All told, it was about 3 hours for my lame ass...including extinguishing the fire. (Cleanup was another 3 hours). Don’t forget to disconnect the battery first.
 
Finally got a chance to do the 7 Pin mod on my rig. I figure it should help on those tight turns on the Back Bear Pass Shmukster is planing for later this year :) . Also, has any of you seen a good cargo platform/solution for an 80 with no second row seats? I'm thinking of removing mine to save some weight ( have a RTT , awning and a roof rack on works and I was realty struggling at altitude in CO last year.


:D

I'd be a little nervous running a RTT on a lifted 80. Just seems like a lot of weight up there.

I've never seen an off the shelf 2nd row platform but many home brew in the 80 section. Who's the Keystone guy who does all the drawers for the members up there? I bet there build you what you want.
 
@apinti Pathetic Wrencher is my real first name. The trick to the top bolt is to remove the wheel and the rear section of fender liner, then gather a variety of ratchet extensions and a “U-joint looking bendy swivel thing” for it. Of course, the bottom bolt ain’t fun, either. My ratchet had literally a 1-click throw in that bottom space. I think a ratchet upgrade is in order.

All told, it was about 3 hours for my lame ass...including extinguishing the fire. (Cleanup was another 3 hours). Don’t forget to disconnect the battery first.
Thanks for the tip. I'll let you know how it went after.
 
I’ll look for some pics of the system I built. Second row is removed, too. But I’d bet the weight difference is minimal.
Well, those second row seats they must weight a few pounds. I'm just trying to shave all the weight I can of my rig.
 

:D

I'd be a little nervous running a RTT on a lifted 80. Just seems like a lot of weight up there.

I've never seen an off the shelf 2nd row platform but many home brew in the 80 section. Who's the Keystone guy who does all the drawers for the members up there? I bet there build you what you want.
Well, by my calculation I should be around 200lb when all is mounted. I figure I should be OK on my 2.5" lift/heavy OME setup.
 
I tore into the front end of the cruiser to find what was grinding. Good news is it was the skid plate tubing the drive shaft. I never liked how close they were so I added some clearance. I also put some gussets on it after the pics
1924185
1924186
 

:D

I'd be a little nervous running a RTT on a lifted 80. Just seems like a lot of weight up there.

I've never seen an off the shelf 2nd row platform but many home brew in the 80 section. Who's the Keystone guy who does all the drawers for the members up there? I bet there build you what you want.
@fireball is a busy dude, better book in advance.
 
I tore into the front end of the cruiser to find what was grinding. Good news is it was the skid plate tubing the drive shaft. I never liked how close they were so I added some clearance. I also put some gussets on it after the pics View attachment 1924185View attachment 1924186
I'd like to nominate that skidplate for the capital land cruisers club medal of honor!!!!!!
 
I guess I need to come out here while it's raining and see if I can source the drips.

Just use a garden hose. Probably sliding window seal
 
working on a few things:
  • had an interior shop modify the top, it came with velcro lined flaps to wrap the 'ribs' and hold top to ribs, seemed weak and velcro was failing presumably from highway test drives - Lim's shop of Tysons (they did my Atlasxxx leather seat installs in years past) went to the snap method used by jeeps for decades, instead of the velcro, worked like a charm, no issues at highway speeds
  • swapped out mirrors - the period correct on-windsheild-hinge moutned ones, had poor visibility, the "thick A pillar" due to the material on leading edge of windows obscured much of the view of the mirror(s), so spent on some door-hinge-mounted aluminum+powdercoated ones, painful, but much safer.
  • re-tasked an old pair of Rigid 2x2 LED lights as rear aux lights, wired to "Aux-2" switch inside, will tap into reverse lead to make them un-cover legal, hanging off of the jerry can holder
  • wired new small front light bar, wanted it 'inside the hoop' as pictured below, wired into "Aux-1" switch, temp zip-tie the lead, deciding which way before using new rivet-nut tool to make the cord mounting better. This 10" light bar is 4x brigher than my huge Lightforce Blitz lights (12.4k lumens vs. 2.8K lumens for the pair) and draws 10% less amps. BD allows for user swappable lenses, so far very happy.
  • mounted hi-lift on rear bumper... not sure. truck was 7' 1" before, now it's 7' 8" with the jack.... (Ed, i'm ready for my 2M antenna)
  • put on rear Toyota badges as per vertical height of stock, radius of tub is same as a 40 so they curves worked, cut off the mounting studs and used double sided outdoor tape... we'll see.
  • been working on interior lights, map light, interior Tuffy box lid-piston, so it opens easier
  • need to decide on floor mats/lining (i have some 1/4" rubber on the way for testing) and for now bluetooth audio sounds like crap, but more important things to do
  • i have some Terrain Tamer birfields and new seals and bearings coming, going to rebuild the birfs next - everything else under the truck is solid, they aint - no clicking, just a leak onto rim/tires if parked for < a few days.
  • Still noodling drawers or not, changing 2nd row to 2x chaptains chairs, and 3rd row inward facing seat on drivers side only instead (figure the kids will fight for who gets the 3rd row, vs. fighting who doesn't have to squeeze behind the tuffy)
  • found out my nato gas cans, bought years ago, don't fit the profile of my jerry can holder cover. joy. want to carry one when i get to 1/4 tank in case the level sending unit isn't accurate, it's yet to be emptied/refilled. once i confirm what size/shape i need i'll post up the 3 i have for sale, part of a group buy a while back on mud. (filled with 89 octane and sta-bil :) )

bajadesigns 10'' from light bar.jpg


rear badges.jpg


ute jack height.jpg
 
Me too. When? Tech day at Stump’s?
Ha. Was kidding. I don’t think I’m quite ready for it but I’m ready to talk mounting locations and then I can work on running to be radio cable back there

I think I want to grind the swing out and weld on a mountain tab ....
 
Did you think about mounting your hi-lift any other way, and keep it from exceeding the height of the soft top?
 
working on a few things:
  • had an interior shop modify the top, it came with velcro lined flaps to wrap the 'ribs' and hold top to ribs, seemed weak and velcro was failing presumably from highway test drives - Lim's shop of Tysons (they did my Atlasxxx leather seat installs in years past) went to the snap method used by jeeps for decades, instead of the velcro, worked like a charm, no issues at highway speeds
  • swapped out mirrors - the period correct on-windsheild-hinge moutned ones, had poor visibility, the "thick A pillar" due to the material on leading edge of windows obscured much of the view of the mirror(s), so spent on some door-hinge-mounted aluminum+powdercoated ones, painful, but much safer.
  • re-tasked an old pair of Rigid 2x2 LED lights as rear aux lights, wired to "Aux-2" switch inside, will tap into reverse lead to make them un-cover legal, hanging off of the jerry can holder
  • wired new small front light bar, wanted it 'inside the hoop' as pictured below, wired into "Aux-1" switch, temp zip-tie the lead, deciding which way before using new rivet-nut tool to make the cord mounting better. This 10" light bar is 4x brigher than my huge Lightforce Blitz lights (12.4k lumens vs. 2.8K lumens for the pair) and draws 10% less amps. BD allows for user swappable lenses, so far very happy.
  • mounted hi-lift on rear bumper... not sure. truck was 7' 1" before, now it's 7' 8" with the jack.... (Ed, i'm ready for my 2M antenna)
  • put on rear Toyota badges as per vertical height of stock, radius of tub is same as a 40 so they curves worked, cut off the mounting studs and used double sided outdoor tape... we'll see.
  • been working on interior lights, map light, interior Tuffy box lid-piston, so it opens easier
  • need to decide on floor mats/lining (i have some 1/4" rubber on the way for testing) and for now bluetooth audio sounds like crap, but more important things to do
  • i have some Terrain Tamer birfields and new seals and bearings coming, going to rebuild the birfs next - everything else under the truck is solid, they aint - no clicking, just a leak onto rim/tires if parked for < a few days.
  • Still noodling drawers or not, changing 2nd row to 2x chaptains chairs, and 3rd row inward facing seat on drivers side only instead (figure the kids will fight for who gets the 3rd row, vs. fighting who doesn't have to squeeze behind the tuffy)
  • found out my nato gas cans, bought years ago, don't fit the profile of my jerry can holder cover. joy. want to carry one when i get to 1/4 tank in case the level sending unit isn't accurate, it's yet to be emptied/refilled. once i confirm what size/shape i need i'll post up the 3 i have for sale, part of a group buy a while back on mud. (filled with 89 octane and sta-bil :) )
View attachment 1924785

View attachment 1924786

View attachment 1924793

Gorgeous. What color is that?
 
Just saw that after the ice thawed on my 1st Gen 4runner that someone had thrown a rock at the windshield and sent spider cracks to multiple sides. I can see the impact point, 100% malicious.

I was going to do exhaust work tomorrow, but I'll be pressure washing siding instead.
 
Did you think about mounting your hi-lift any other way, and keep it from exceeding the height of the soft top?

that's how the mount came. but now that the jack itself sticks up to a ridoinkulous height, i will be thinking of other options. It's not a deal breaker, as i have zero plans of putting this in a garage or DC driving this beast - and I don't want anything on the roof, not sure i want it on my hood.

I may need to think of an angled mount in the rear.
 

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