Prestone--top of the line (1 Viewer)

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So I know Toyota Red is the best but I don't have very good access to it down here in Mexico. Shortly I will be changing out my radiator, water pump, thermostat. Will it be a problem to run the best version of the prestone? I sell it in my store--all the truckers buy this version.

If it prestone really sucks I could get the red once a year but it would be a hassle.
 
If you flush out your system fully, until it is mostly water. You could then run what ever coolant you want. I am currently running just good old prestone green, I will flush it yearly. I would warn you of adding prestone orange into your coolant system, it will create far more problems than it is worth. This coolant needs to be added to all new rubber, and may create problems if you do not.
later robbie
 
Interesting robbie, thanks. So i guess my mom's camary is o.k. since she had her radiator replaced and flushed all the coolant out and replaced with green. I was wondering if i should flush her's and replace with red.
 
The key is to not mix coolants. Use whatever you like, just do not mix.
 
Presone are good product. I would not hesitate to use it over OEM toyota red. The also have new one that are compatible with all color antifreeze. The 50-50 premix solution are great for topping off.
 
* Use a premium coolant
* Do not use Dexcool or other "lifetime" coolants
* Do not mix brands or types of coolant
* Completely flush old coolant before replacing
* Use distilled water
* And most important in my opinion, is to change ituanny.ll

--B
 
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Excelent sumation, agreed on all points.
 
I just got done flushing the Sube of the orange stuff, which I put in two years ago. Astonishingly bad results, with significant deposits on a heretofore pristine system. As a sample, the thermostat was coated with an orange layer and also thick scaley stuff (new when I put the orange in). I cleaned it out with serious flushing of fresh water and multiple cycles. The heater now puts out better heat. Where it was obvious that freeway speeds were cooling the output a bit, I now don't have to adjust the heat at speed and it puts out better heat at all speeds. I attribute this to that layer which definitely reduced heat transfer from the passing fluid that should have gone to the fins in the rad, and the reverse effect in my heater core. I put Prestone green in and simply cleaned and reinstalled the thermostat after testing it on the stove.

If by Prestone's "best" you're referring to the stuff in the gold bottle that's labeled "international" or something then you're onto a good product. This is a traditional blend that's been updated with superior additives. Many of the new coolants are not a good idea for the 4.5 80 mill. Don't forget to remove your block drain - if you never have you'll be embarassed by the pile of crap that will come out of the block.

DougM
 
Hey guys thanks for all of the tips. I am taking delivery of the cruiser at the end of the week. The prestone is actually in a black bottle--and is the standard bright green. Well this sounds good---I will flush everything including the block drain. Distilled water is a must here--the local water :eek: Anyhow Thanks--one less thing I have to sneak over :)

On a side note this forum is great--I have a huge list of Maintenance related items planned. Once this is done the lift, winch, bumpers go on. Thanks for all of the great write-ups. :flipoff2:
 
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I'm really shocked that no one here finds using the "red" coolant as a must. To me it's like saying synthetic and nonsynthetic oils are the same! Toyotas must use a ethylene-glycol antifreeze that is silicate free! I've always used Toyota coolant on my trucks, and my '94 4runner is going on 275k miles with no engine work. I replaced the radiator 2yrs ago and there was absolutly no corrosion....and only 2yrs before that I replace the water pump and it too was absolutely clean. The system has only been flushed those two times. My '86 pickup runs the same and I've never noticed corrosion on any of the water systems, even the aluminum head's water passages look new and that engine has 340k on one rebuild. Flushing the system is way over kill if you keep the system sealed and silicate free coolant in it, the most you might need to do is just drain the radiator and refill it every few years. Now for the price I found the Havoline "red" coolant to be the only one that states to be silicate free so I may start using that....and I'm pretty sure Toyota contracts with Havoline for oil and such....but I'm not 100% about that.
 
Bear,

Not sure where you're getting your data on "must", but if you do a bit of searching you'll find a lot of people here are die hard Toy Red fans, including myself after trying a couple others. As for a Toyota/Havoline tie up, this is the first I've heard it suggested.

DougM
 
alright cdan, out with it...who supplies yota red? :flipoff2:
 
Bear80 said:
Flushing the system is way over kill if you keep the system sealed and silicate free coolant in it, the most you might need to do is just drain the radiator and refill it every few years.

Bear,

If you own an 80 then you are strongly advised to flush the cooling system annually. You can declare it as over-kill but the data on clogged radiators simply does not support your opinion.

Read the archives from last spring through last summer and how many people are finding their truck's PO didn't flush regularly and the new owners are replacing radiators and HG's at an alarming rate. We have also seen well maintained vehicles that flushed every two years per Toyota recommendation by the original owners. They have found sludge in their cooling system. For some reason the additives in Toyota Red and in other quality coolants are not holding up in the 1FZ-FE engine and we're seeing sludge buildup. To date, the only (hopefully) "preventative" has been frequent flush/fills.

YMMV, but I wouldn't count on it.

-B-
 
Now this is my first dealings with an 1F so I'll have to keep an eye out for the build up. Though the coolant in my 80 is looking kinda cloudy...maybe I'm in need of that flush. It's just after all my experiences with toyota I just find it hard to belive that you have to keep flushing the system...I just don't want to put my non distilled water hose to it.
 
>> Though the coolant in my 80 is looking kinda cloudy.. <<

As a new owner you should base line all fluids. *All* of them. Coolant, oil, diffs, tranny, xfer, PS, and brake fluid.

Examine the overflow and the top of the radiator. If you see grey sludge then start searching the archives so you are educated on what comes next. This is especially important if you have a 97. I don't see any vehicle information in your sig line.

-B-
 
FYI- IIRC, Prestone has an ethylene glycol coolant, that is silicate free and phosphate free, I used it on my Honda motorcycle (apparently bad news for the water pump if it is not silicate free on my particular bike).

For my Land Cruiser, I have just used regular prestone green (after proper flushing) to replace the brown concoction that was in it when I bought it, I will change every ~18 months. If it went to 185k with what was in there, I'm not too worried about coolant brand, etc., as long as it is flushed and changed regularly now.
 

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