Pressure Tank Gore.
- Thread starter splitshot
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Isnt opening the pressure relief a pm issue? I always thought every 6 months or so you had a shutdown and OR at least opened it if possible? At least that was the rule of thumb at any chemical,powerhouse I worked at.
If so I would imagine the owner would be partly responceable?
If so I would imagine the owner would be partly responceable?
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- #25
I'm thinking more on the line of a pressure switch which will cut off the power to the pumps after they reach 80 to 85 psi or so...Otherwise a keyed lockout to keep the dummies from being able to turn the switches to manual..
Although, I've heard stories of motor starters getting locked up due to weather (and even due to lizzards trying to warm up), so a high end pressure switch makes more sense??
I agree, piss-poor design, but has worked fine on many systems for years till (in this instance), human error is involved.
.02?
^^^^Mace's point is right on.
Although, I've heard stories of motor starters getting locked up due to weather (and even due to lizzards trying to warm up), so a high end pressure switch makes more sense??
I agree, piss-poor design, but has worked fine on many systems for years till (in this instance), human error is involved.
.02?
^^^^Mace's point is right on.
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- #26
Costs are coming in. 12.5 for a new tank, 2,800 for the Febco backflow, and a rough 5 to 8k to set and re-plumb and wire the whole setup. Looking at 3 weeks to get the tank built.
I'm heading up to Eloy tomorrow to check out a used tank (which was replaced by the City of Scotsdale), he's only asking 6,500 for..Supposedly has been lined with epoxy coating..
I'm heading up to Eloy tomorrow to check out a used tank (which was replaced by the City of Scotsdale), he's only asking 6,500 for..Supposedly has been lined with epoxy coating..
If you can take pictures of the tank(close up) I might be able to tell you what or if it has epoxy. It would be nice if you can get your hands on a digital meter to read the mills. Also how old is the tank...if its old test for lead.
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- #28
Most tanks have an ID tag on them, form what I hear this one has none. May not be able to find how old it is. I'll take some pics when I crawl inside and post up.
pressure relief valves can be overwhelmed, I've seen LP tanks blow their caps if pressure isn't reduced. Mace is right about the water hammer effect, you have a huge s*** sandwich there.
It is very common to use a 6" or bigger pressure relief. They are basically a spring loaded lid calibrated for a certain pressure and "locked" with a tamper-proof wire to show that no one has tightened the spring.
Hi-low cutoffs are pretty easy but add another set of contacts to troubleshoot and aren't the most reliable components either.
What are you irrigating? Drip systems on produce I suppose? How many gpm?
Hi-low cutoffs are pretty easy but add another set of contacts to troubleshoot and aren't the most reliable components either.
What are you irrigating? Drip systems on produce I suppose? How many gpm?
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- #32
One of the options our pump guy has come up with, we are still working on the best option to suit our needs. One involves removing the hand option on the switches and a secondary backup, I.E; high cutoff or larger prv's or bov's..
6" spring loaded prv in the inlet or outlet header sounds like a good idea.Thanks..
Irrigating containerized nursrey stock, don't have the figures in front of me but wild guess, peak of summer, run's into 250~ gpm.
Looked at the used tank in Casa Grande today, better shape than we thought. Has been pressure tested and epoxy lined..
Also has a thicker drum and heads. For half the price of a new unlined tank. A no brainer, IMO.
Here's some pics..
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- #33
Interior..
Dirty, but no "tree trunk rust bark" going on...
Dirty, but no "tree trunk rust bark" going on...
sorry......dont see any form of epoxy
actually I think you scored.....just start chipping away at all the seams with a blunt object to be sure
actually I think you scored.....just start chipping away at all the seams with a blunt object to be sureNo safeties?
I do temperature control for central plants. There are many types of controls you should install to make your system safe and idiot proof.I'm thinking more on the line of a pressure switch which will cut off the power to the pumps after they reach 80 to 85 psi or so...Otherwise a keyed lockout to keep the dummies from being able to turn the switches to manual..
Although, I've heard stories of motor starters getting locked up due to weather (and even due to lizzards trying to warm up), so a high end pressure switch makes more sense??
I agree, piss-poor design, but has worked fine on many systems for years till (in this instance), human error is involved.
.02?
^^^^Mace's point is right on.
I would certainly have several pressure sensors interlocked with the pumps. Set the pressure shutoff value well under the tanks pressure rating. You may want to take away the hand feature and or install a beacon light when safeties have been overidden.
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- #39
Hey, it's just a minor step above a farm, and agriculture isn't bringing in any funds to make it high tech at this point (in fact, this could bankrupt us
)..Safety yes, but only the dog will see any beacon lights going off..I'm jumping in the big rig tomorrow to go pick up everyone's Christmas bonus..
I wish you the best of luck
Hey, it's just a minor step above a farm, and agriculture isn't bringing in any funds to make it high tech at this point (in fact, this could bankrupt us
I'm jumping in the big rig tomorrow to go pick up everyone's Christmas bonus..