Prepping for long distance travel (1 Viewer)

[Halfpint]

I've had my '94 LC for almost two months now and really haven't had time or the knowledge to baseline the car for maintenance. And I want to take it on some distance drives with fam to the mountains 3 or so hrs away and don't want to break down.

Engine has been rebuilt by PO about 12k miles ago but drivetrain has some intermittent noises.

Car would give a whirring groan at hwy speed occasionally when letting off throttle. I couldn't determine where but it was in the front- diff, wheel bearing or drive shaft I assume.

I inspected the shaft and there wasn't any play but gave it a cpl shots of grease for good measure. The sound would still happen, again only intermittently and not easily replicated. So I removed the front driveshaft and fuse locked the diff (no CDL). Sound hasn't returned but a fainter softer groan could be heard even less frequently. Typically while the noise would only last a few seconds it would go away on load- hwy speed again- never at city speed.

Wheel has a small amount of play when shaking only if jacked off the ground. Solid with car not jacked. I'm too noob right now to do wheel bearings but wondering if it's the diff or TC too. I have supplies to do the oil soon and thought might as well do diff and TC fluids too.

Salt on wound, the AC is coming and going now too- mostly works after a 2 second devil shreak- i got new belts but current look good.

I want to get this rig solid for long distance travel without stranding with 3 and 5 yr old girls.

Any ideas from the pros? Any other travel items I should be aware of? Pic for attention.

 

[greentruck]

Looks good, but deferred maintenance is a PITA.

Just guessing but your front driveshaft in a lifted truck is likely a double-carden(SP) by virtue of the specialized U-joint fittings it uses the deal with the differing angles of a lifted truck. These may require a special fitting on your greaegun to grease everything on them. Never had one, but just read about them. Making sure that's dealt with, if a factor, might resolve part of your noise.

Don't worry about the TC. The diffs are usally AOK too, so long as you keep lube in them. Top off them and everything else with the proper fluids. Keep an eye on the levels at which you find them as you fill, then when you recheck you'll have some idea if a future loss is just seepage or something of greater importance.

This is particularly important with brake fluid. Any use there needs investigation if you're not up on baselining the brakes. Check the hoses to the calipers for cracking or worse. Check your pads, too, to see how much life is left in your brakes.

Another critical place to check levels is the overflow tank of your cooling system. Usage there is a similar alarm bell. Looks are also worth noting.

All your belts should be newish, otherwise even an old belt can look OK, but be prone to failure. Sounds like the AC clutch may be going. Just about as cheap to replace the entire compressor (comes with clutch) as to just do the AC clutch. Don't hit the road in summer with iffy AC or you'll regret it. Same with the drivetrain noises, Why go the distance if it's a parking lot queen underneath! You need that sort of redundacy for backup on the trail, you don't want to start the trip with all your slack already taken up, so get that straight IMO.

 

[Cruzerman]

As long as the previous owner took reasonable care (which from the picture it looks like he did), check the oil, put gas in it, and go. That's what I would do.

 

[ChaseTruck]

First instinct was to suggest to lay off the HDR photography, just a bit, the truck's shiny enough as is, but that's just me...

Re shaking the wheel: truck on jack stands, front wheels off the ground - is there movement if you shake it from the 12 o'clock and 6 o'clock positions? If so, you might have a wheel bearing that'll need some attention. Perhaps just a bit of tightening since the torque specified in the FSM doesn't play nice with oversized tires.

Too much grease in the driveshaft u-joints usually doesn't do anything but make a mess. Too much grease in the drive shaft slip joint could - sort of - hydro-lock the driveshaft, and lead to d-shaft vibes.

A/C - a bit of belt conditioner, and perhaps snug the belt just a tiny bit? Disclaimer - I'm a Chevy guy at heart, and 'fixing' the '85 goes by different standards (...good enough...) that I wouldn't be permitted to apply to the '93 80 or the '97 LX in our stable...

 

[ceylonfj40nut]

Get triple A platinum. Check fluids, add fuel and go. Learn about it then start your list.

 

[BILT4ME]

Lube your shafts and check your nuts!





The nuts are on the bottom of the front knuckles. Torque to 71 LB-FT. This is a critical thing.

 

[Halfpint]

I've got my list building already!

Already replaced all vac lines with silicone ones to pep up throttle response. Replaced broken OD button- was stuck on. And been reading a lot on birfs and bearings- it's Greek still until I get in there I guess.

Next up: find some damn nitrile gloves, top and swap fluids, press old grease out of the f/r ujoints and remove slip zerk to refresh contents- check that it's not over extended, rerun stuck parking brake cable with a new one, and now I have to wise up to the wheel bearing snug.

Oh and turn HDR off my phone camera.

This is ,"project car" #2- working a '72 BMW currently. I may very well be broke soon.

 

[lazy]

I too have three daughters - 4,6,8 and a wife. I load mine up in my 300k 80 all day every day and drive. These trucks have their issues, especially since they are all getting up there in age.

Your grinding noise is coming from the drive shafts most likely. If you have a lift, and it looks like you do, you can try greasing, new u's, making sure caster is correct, but I ultimately ended up getting new drive shafts. The options are to find some junkyard shafts from tacos/tundras and have a driveline shop do a retube, buy landtank's version or go after market. I have a tatton front (reviews are all over the board - really good and really bad) and I just ordered a Tom Wood's rear. Any driveline shop can do it though....I wouldn't NOT go on a long trip because of driveline noise, I wouldn't put another 300k on her with it either. Especially with my wife and the driveline noise probably making her feel uncomfortable.

Grease, top off fluids, check your nuts, check belts, check fluids and let her rip is my opinion.

Last parting thoughts, many on here are more anal about their maintenance than you will be. Maybe they are less so. More are Toyota purists. It's important to remember that there is a wide spectrum of experience, budgets, available free time and most importantly - how they enjoy spending their time. Find what works for you.

 

[ZackR]

Start with longer road trips, once you are confident everything is working well then transition to longer off road trips.

 

[Heckraiser]

Drivetrain noises are annoying and may take some time and investigation to chase down, but theankfully they will not strand you on the road with your family. Gas up and go.

After your trip, you can read up on MUD about various people chasing their grinds and bumps, myself included, and start diagnosing in earnest. Sound heard when letting off the throttle sounds like a bad slip yoke--that's what it was in my case. Rear driveshaft, although I could have sworn the sound was coming from the front.

 

[Halfpint]

If you have a lift, and it looks like you do, you can try greasing, new u's, making sure caster is correct, but I ultimately ended up getting new drive shafts. The options are to find some junkyard shafts from tacos/tundras and have a driveline shop do a retube, buy landtank's version or go after market. I have a tatton front (reviews are all over the board - really good and really bad) and I just ordered a Tom Wood's rear.

Thanks for this. I've been through the purist punches before when I "outlaw" modded a Porsche 356 rep- I accept all the comments and pick what fits my bag. It's good to hear all the sides.

I think the biggest pain in buying this rig is that I have no clue what the PO touched and don't recognize all the aftermarket parts on here. (Heck I havent even a clue what lift this thing has besides having Bilsteins)
Driveshaft:

Lift:

 

[retrofive]

Pack a spare fusible links

 

[BILT4ME]

I'm guessing an Ironman lift based on the logo on the caster plates on the front axle!

 

[lazy]

that's the toyota drive shaft. The slip yoke side seems to have some sort of non OEM u joint with the grease zirk on the cap. or at least what looks like a zirk....

 

[tacocat]

Drivetrain Noises because running boards.

 

[Halfpint]

that's the toyota drive shaft. The slip yoke side seems to have some sort of non OEM u joint with the grease zirk on the cap. or at least what looks like a zirk....

That is correct. So should I assume I need an aftermarket dbl cardan f/r shaft or would replacing the ujoints on this suffice current. There's no play in it that I can tell...yet.

 

[MaK92 4RnR]

Get AAA towing and take it for some shake down runs. Worst case scenario, you have to wait for a tow truck.

 

[Halfpint]

Drivetrain Noises because running boards.

While I agree heavily with this statement, my 3yo would drop to her death without them

 

[greentruck]

That is correct. So should I assume I need an aftermarket dbl cardan f/r shaft or would replacing the ujoints on this suffice current. There's no play in it that I can tell...yet.

I suspect that changing the u-joints will not solve the issue. The one looks like it was replaced already - and the DS is no longer on the truck. That along with what appears to be a lifted truck would send me in search of the Landtank or other double-cardan solution.

However, putting that DS back on to confirm can't hurt. May be worth seeing how it does in order to consider if rebalancing might help.

 

[Halfpint]

I suspect that changing the u-joints will not solve the issue. The one looks like it was replaced already - and the DS is no longer on the truck. That along with what appears to be a lifted truck would send me in search of the Landtank or other double-cardan solution.

However, putting that DS back on to confirm can't hurt. May be worth seeing how it does in order to consider if rebalancing might help.

I just measured the hub center to bottom of flare and read out what seems to be 2.3'' lift from stock. Should stock height be:

Front = 520mm
Rear = 525mm

Is Landtank the only direct fabbed option? I'm also reading that the front is really the only shaft needing to have the DC and the rear potentially can be left alone.