Prepping for long distance travel (1 Viewer)

[lazy]

I hope you're not buying a DC shaft because of something I said. But, it is one of many possible solutions. and it happens to have solved my issue.

I believe landtank keeps everything toyota. You can go scavenge junk yards local to you and find the pieces and have a local shop retube. Probably the most economical solution if you avoid "yota yards." car-part.com to see what's around you.

Double Cardan Drive Shaft Solutions

After lifting an 80 series past a certain point and or correcting the front castor to account for the lift, a double cardan (DC) joint drive shaft will be needed. Slee Off-Road offers an excellent solution with all new quality Spicer joints and also a local drive shaft shop can make any custom...

forum.ih8mud.com

Tom woods would argue they have a better shaft than toyota. They come highly recommended. I just bought one so I can't give a personal recommendation at this point because brown santa hasn't delivered it yet.

Tattons is probably the cheapest. You can google "fzj80 Tatton" and find the negative reviews along with the plethora of people who have had no problems.

 

[tacocat]

The caster angle will play a large part of determining if you need a DC shaft or not. Your lift height is in the safe zone for a caster correction with just plates alone.

However the various plates are each a bit
different in how they approach the caster/driveline angle issue. I’d recommend tackling your spindle bearing preload, and getting an alignment to get some real data and go from there before ordering a front DC shaft.

On a separate note, get a Blackstone oil analysis. It’s cheap and will give you a good indication of the internal health of the engine.

 

[haryv]

I've had my '94 LC for almost two months now and really haven't had time or the knowledge to baseline the car for maintenance. And I want to take it on some distance drives with fam to the mountains 3 or so hrs away and don't want to break down.

Engine has been rebuilt by PO about 12k miles ago but drivetrain has some intermittent noises.

Car would give a whirring groan at hwy speed occasionally when letting off throttle. I couldn't determine where but it was in the front- diff, wheel bearing or drive shaft I assume.

I inspected the shaft and there wasn't any play but gave it a cpl shots of grease for good measure. The sound would still happen, again only intermittently and not easily replicated. So I removed the front driveshaft and fuse locked the diff (no CDL). Sound hasn't returned but a fainter softer groan could be heard even less frequently. Typically while the noise would only last a few seconds it would go away on load- hwy speed again- never at city speed.

Wheel has a small amount of play when shaking only if jacked off the ground. Solid with car not jacked. I'm too noob right now to do wheel bearings but wondering if it's the diff or TC too. I have supplies to do the oil soon and thought might as well do diff and TC fluids too.

Salt on wound, the AC is coming and going now too- mostly works after a 2 second devil shreak- i got new belts but current look good.

I want to get this rig solid for long distance travel without stranding with 3 and 5 yr old girls.

Any ideas from the pros? Any other travel items I should be aware of? Pic for attention.
View attachment 2416476

find a reliable and competent shop go to iatn.net. be smart be proactive and find out from other owners what is the most likely parts that will fail and prevent the engine from starting and if you can carry those a spare and if you can carry those a spare Parts in your vehicle.

 

[ChiYota]

Car would give a whirring groan at hwy speed occasionally when letting off throttle. I couldn't determine where but it was in the front- diff, wheel bearing or drive shaft I assume.

I inspected the shaft and there wasn't any play but gave it a cpl shots of grease for good measure. The sound would still happen, again only intermittently and not easily replicated. So I removed the front driveshaft and fuse locked the diff (no CDL). Sound hasn't returned but a fainter softer groan could be heard even less frequently. Typically while the noise would only last a few seconds it would go away on load- hwy speed again- never at city speed.

FWIW, last time this happened to me, it was actually the Spindle bushings in the front axle. Exact same condition to recreate my noise. It was intermittent for a couple weeks, then started happening like crazy.

 

[greentruck]

The caster angle will play a large part of determining if you need a DC shaft or not. Your lift height is in the safe zone for a caster correction with just plates alone.
SNIP

Good point on verifying whether or not your caster correction was dealt with when the lift was applied. Given the seeming issues with the DS, this may also have been skipped over when the lift was applied. There is some interaction between caster and driveline angles, so getting caster dialed in is where you want to start to be sure that base is covered and doesn't need revisited later.

Halfpint,
You are correct, the DC DS is only typically applied to the front.

 

[sogafarm]

Tighten all your nuts! Caliper nuts, drive shaft nuts, etc. Check all hoses for cracks, replace belts, change fluids, bring extra of each. Get AAA, a good bit of cash and a cc and go have fun.

 

[alphaeighteen]

The caster angle will play a large part of determining if you need a DC shaft or not. Your lift height is in the safe zone for a caster correction with just plates alone.

However the various plates are each a bit
different in how they approach the caster/driveline angle issue. I’d recommend tackling your spindle bearing preload, and getting an alignment to get some real data and go from there before ordering a front DC shaft.

On a separate note, get a Blackstone oil analysis. It’s cheap and will give you a good indication of the internal health of the engine.

Are there any threads on how to read a blackstone oil analysis? I just changed the oil on mine as I just got it and have baselined the fluids. What's an appropriate time to pull the oil to send off to blackstone? The next oil change?

 

[BILT4ME]

Are there any threads on how to read a blackstone oil analysis? I just changed the oil on mine as I just got it and have baselined the fluids. What's an appropriate time to pull the oil to send off to blackstone? The next oil change?

Go to the Blackstone site and read their explanation of what each of the numbers mean. It is extremely helpful.

Pull the sample any time you change the oil. Draw the sample after a few seconds of draining so it doesn't get all the debris in the bottom of the pan, but doesn't get the stuff on top either.

You can request a set of sample bottles to have so you are prepared each time. I keep 6 on hand because we drive a lot and have 8 vehicles.

 

[ZackR]

Are there any threads on how to read a blackstone oil analysis? I just changed the oil on mine as I just got it and have baselined the fluids. What's an appropriate time to pull the oil to send off to blackstone? The next oil change?

They provide you a summary to explain what was found during the analysis. I haven't done one yet but have been curious to see what they say now that I'm at 326k.

 

[tacocat]

You can request a set of sample bottles to have so you are prepared each time. I keep 6 on hand because we drive a lot and have 8 vehicles.

Does having that many vessels make you an Admiral or “the manager” everyone refers to at a used car lot?

 

[BILT4ME]

Does having that many vessels make you an Admiral or “the manager” everyone refers to at a used car lot?

No, it's usually "those people" or the "white trash over there" or "that pfuckhead that's ruining our property values" in our neighborhood.

 

[Halfpint]

Welp...in draining the front diff, I found some surprises which is most likely responsible for the groans ...

First the diff fluid looked like it was never changed!! Black as night and unfortunately filled with some metal shards...

This cant be good, no?

What I don't get is its really thin flakes- so I don't think the diff detonated itself. I'm reading it's possibly normal too see some "shavings" in the fluid...coming from precision euro machines (tuning audis, bmws, etc) where tolerances are less than millimetres, this freaks me out...

 

[Halfpint]

After the diffs, I still had noise. Bought a DC shaft from t wood. Part of the noise was gone. But driving was a bit quieter. Popped apart the front to redo preload and both nuts were extremely loose.. I could unscrew both inner and outer with fingers...

Redid the preload and voila...truck is butter now!

I'll put new bearings and a knuckle rebuild on my to dos..but pretty happy as it is now.

Heading to the coast for some dune action with the rods in a week...super excited.

Also added a prinsu rack because bi was bored!

 

[Nathan King]

After the diffs, I still had noise. Bought a DC shaft from t wood. Part of the noise was gone. But driving was a bit quieter. Popped apart the front to redo preload and both nuts were extremely loose.. I could unscrew both inner and outer with fingers...

Redid the preload and voila...truck is butter now!

I'll put new bearings and a knuckle rebuild on my to dos..but pretty happy as it is now.

Heading to the coast for some dune action with the rods in a week...super excited.

Also added a prinsu rack because bi was bored!

What nuts were loose? I'm not following you. I've gotten the same noise you describe. Thanks!

 

[scottryana]

Bearing preload nuts.

What nuts were loose? I'm not following you. I've gotten the same noise you describe. Thanks!

 

[greentruck]

Welp...in draining the front diff, I found some surprises which is most likely responsible for the groans ...

First the diff fluid looked like it was never changed!! Black as night and unfortunately filled with some metal shards...

This cant be good, no?

View attachment 2424091

What I don't get is its really thin flakes- so I don't think the diff detonated itself. I'm reading it's possibly normal too see some "shavings" in the fluid...coming from precision euro machines (tuning audis, bmws, etc) where tolerances are less than millimetres, this freaks me out...

Black could be a sign of the inner axle seal failing and letting the moly from the trunnion box/birf housing leak into the axle fluid. Or it is possible that it was never changed. Either way, probably want to deal with an axle service sooner rather than later.

As for the metal flakes, your estimation is probably a good one. Normal wear and tear in the absence of more conclusive evidence of diff issues.

 

[Halfpint]

What nuts were loose? I'm not following you. I've gotten the same noise you describe. Thanks!

Yup. Preload nuts- 54mm. I thought it would be a daunting task to bust it all apart, but actually was quite simple- second wheel went much quicker too. Quick time spent for assurance. Knowing they've been loose ( most likely prior to my ownership) I'm looking for the best place with kits now- I'm sure they are within a wear spec that I can't notice.

I'll need to study up on the knuckle repack. Sounds fun but need to make sure a) I get a proper kit and b) I get all the correct lube

 

[bajaphile]

I would agree that the black diff fluid was simply the moly grease migrating into the diff area. Prior to your trip, you may want to pump some moly into the knuckle through the fill hole (square plug, you use a 12pt 14 mm socket). You can buy Valvoline palladium grease online (Walmart) and it will deliver next day generally for free. I will just fill up a big zip lock bag, cut off a corner and squeeze it in that way (I read about that method here!), similar to what a baker would use for icing.

With larger tires, it is acceptable to tighten the axle nuts tighter than factory spec. I've read a select few who have never had issues with using the Toyota spec but from a personal level, I have not had any success across many years and working on different trucks.