Power Windows and Door Locks--Permanent Fix! (1 Viewer)

Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Messages
6
Location
Alexandria, VA
After completing one window (right rear) I am getting some dreaded electrical issues (slow wipers, climate blower only works at about quarter power, radio static/speakers cutting out, windows work great!). I am just smart enough to know this is most likely a grounding issue. I currently have the window relays grounded to the door itself, I am hoping that when I complete the other two doors, grounding them to the body of the car will help but I am dealing with some very brittle trim pieces.

Anyone have this problem? Any tips?
 
Joined
Feb 4, 2018
Messages
6
Location
Alexandria, VA
After completing one window (right rear) I am getting some dreaded electrical issues (slow wipers, climate blower only works at about quarter power, radio static/speakers cutting out, windows work great!). I am just smart enough to know this is most likely a grounding issue. I currently have the window relays grounded to the door itself, I am hoping that when I complete the other two doors, grounding them to the body of the car will help but I am dealing with some very brittle trim pieces.

Anyone have this problem? Any tips?
I successfully completed the front right passenger door this weekend and grounded through the door grommet to under the dash. This restored my HVAC blower power, but windshield wipers are still weak (though not as weak as before where they would stop in the middle of the window). I added an extra ground between the wiper motor and the inner fender this afternoon and it seems to have given some of the power back. Planning on redoing my work on the rear doors and connecting some solid grounds to inside the vehicle.
 
Joined
May 16, 2020
Messages
168
Location
Fayetteville AR
Wow!! This is an impressive thread. I have read it front to back a couple times and still don't have this figured out. One more full read should do the trick.......I hope.

My current, and very simple take away is this, and PLEASE let me know if I'm off base!!! *****I am skipping over all of the complexity in the wiring and color changes. I will go back and study this carefully before getting started.

Locks:
The master switch panel requires the addition of two relays , one up and one down. 14guage wire should be used. I'm still not clear if there is a definitive way to maintain the window lock function???

Windows:
All four doors need to have 14guage grounding wire run to the chassis. And two relays wired into the switches of all four doors. These switches now only activate the relays. So the master switch panel only needs relays added for the drivers door. The two relays added to the other three doors will now be activated by both switches, the one in each door and the switch in the master switch panel.

Both mods will require 10 relays. 2 for the locks, and 8 for the windows. Is this an accurate big picture description so far???
 
Joined
May 16, 2020
Messages
168
Location
Fayetteville AR
Wow!! This is an impressive thread. I have read it front to back a couple times and still don't have this figured out. One more full read should do the trick.......I hope.

My current, and very simple take away is this, and PLEASE let me know if I'm off base!!! *****I am skipping over all of the complexity in the wiring and color changes. I will go back and study this carefully before getting started.

Locks:
The master switch panel requires the addition of two relays , one up and one down. 14guage wire should be used. I'm still not clear if there is a definitive way to maintain the window lock function???

Windows:
All four doors need to have 14guage grounding wire run to the chassis. And two relays wired into the switches of all four doors. These switches now only activate the relays. So the master switch panel only needs relays added for the drivers door. The two relays added to the other three doors will now be activated by both switches, the one in each door and the switch in the master switch panel.

Both mods will require 10 relays. 2 for the locks, and 8 for the windows. Is this an accurate big picture description so far???
Hey 89! Did you install both mods?
 
Joined
May 16, 2020
Messages
168
Location
Fayetteville AR
Wow!! This is an impressive thread. I have read it front to back a couple times and still don't have this figured out. One more full read should do the trick.......I hope.

My current, and very simple take away is this, and PLEASE let me know if I'm off base!!! *****I am skipping over all of the complexity in the wiring and color changes. I will go back and study this carefully before getting started.

Locks:
The master switch panel requires the addition of two relays , one up and one down. 14guage wire should be used. I'm still not clear if there is a definitive way to maintain the window lock function???

Windows:
All four doors need to have 14guage grounding wire run to the chassis. And two relays wired into the switches of all four doors. These switches now only activate the relays. So the master switch panel only needs relays added for the drivers door. The two relays added to the other three doors will now be activated by both switches, the one in each door and the switch in the master switch panel.

Both mods will require 10 relays. 2 for the locks, and 8 for the windows. Is this an accurate big picture description so far???
I did a third read through of this entire thread as planned. My simple summary is NOT correct. Both mods only require 8 relays. The drivers door does not have relays added for the window mod, as this door has relays inside the door already. The BIG GREEN BOX, as is explained two or three times with the 12 pages of posts. This now makes much more since to me. Adding 4 relays to the drivers door would be A LOT.

After editing my original summary, this is now my plan of action,

Door Lock Mod.
1) I'm going to add two relays, one up and one down to the hiring harness side of the door lock, which will allow me to secure the relays with ease, and then simply plug the master panel switch into the OEM connectors as always.

Window Mod.
1) I plan to run new 14guage ground wires to all three passenger doors though the door grommet, to a clean grounding point under the dash. This will be simple as I am already in the process of inspecting , repairing, and rewrapping the factory wiring harness. I will be able to fold in the three new ground leads to the factory loom. I have inspected the positive leads to each door. The original positive wiring is in good shape, so I do not plan to run a new positive lead wire to each door.

2) I will add two relays to all three passenger doors , splicing into the door switch as described in this thread.

3) I have been applying standard grease to the power window mechanical assembly in each door, thinking this would help improve their functionality. This was a mistake as it turns out standard standard grease gets sticky and slows down the motion of the window. So I will take each unit out of all four doors, clean them in great detail, and apply white lithium grease to the moving mechanical components.

This is a link to the relays I will be using.



Any notes, please shout out. Otherwise, I'll catch ya'll on the flip side with an update after installing both mod's.
 

ntsqd

technerd
Joined
Apr 26, 2007
Messages
6,422
Location
Upper So. CA
These are not a place to skimp on cost. The relays inside of the door are partly exposed to outside conditions. Presently I would use these relays:
with these connectors:
using these terminals to splice wires as required:
 
Joined
May 16, 2020
Messages
168
Location
Fayetteville AR
These are not a place to skimp on cost. The relays inside of the door are partly exposed to outside conditions. Presently I would use these relays:
with these connectors:
using these terminals to splice wires as required:
Using water tight components is a good note. I happen to have the parts i listed in hand , left over from a big led custom light wiring harness I made for my LC100. The relays in each door will be enclosed in a small water proof case, the case will be mounted to the inside of each door.
 

WoodnotRust

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Joined
Dec 27, 2019
Messages
313
Location
New Mexico, USA
Using water tight components is a good note. I happen to have the parts i listed in hand , left over from a big led custom light wiring harness I made for my LC100. The relays in each door will be enclosed in a small water proof case, the case will be mounted to the inside of each door.
Hi LCUberalles...have you successfully completed the window and door lock mod using these less expensive relays? I'm tempted to go the Song Chuan route, but it doesn't appear that the pre-wired (waterproof) TE Connectivity harness is in stock at Waytekwire and the total cost for all 8 relays and harnesses is pushing $250 with shipping. I'd like to get feedback from someone that has installed in-stock alternatives, like the following waterproof version that sells for about $5 each (with harness):

Amazon product
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2021
Messages
55
Location
Idaho
I’ve been following this thread in anticipation of doing serious work this winter in my ‘89 FJ62. A newb question: my windows operate properly but extremely slow-two need a bit of help to get them all the way up. I’ve replaced the track, wiper and door felt/rubber. Is running slowly primarily a voltage drop due to aging wiring, increasingly poor ground (battery strap is very corroded-on the list to be upgraded) or is it a mostly a friction issue? And if it’s wiring (upgrading wiring as per this thread), fixing ground strap etc-can I expect better operation since it appears the motors themselves are at least functional?

Main reason I’m asking is that I’m gathering as many parts and such to have on hand (without spending a ton unnecessarily) as it takes a while in our little town to get stuff.

Thx
BK
 
Joined
Mar 3, 2020
Messages
129
Location
Orange, California
Hi BK,

I’ve done the relays in my doors ( passenger side front and the two rears ) and I can tell you it made a world of difference. Going from 15-16 seconds to 4-5.

I did however decided to run 12awg power wire into my doors directly from the battery with a fuse installed close to the battery. I didn’t want the current going through the old window switches, because those switches are one of the main source of the problem when your windows are moving slow ( other than bad ground and failing fusible links ) electrically speaking.

Also changed the wiring on the relays and went with the diodes on each relay, so I can keep the window lock out switch functional and keep my switches happy with only a small current flowing through them. Every switch works as intended from the factory.

I don’t like to cut factory wires so I got some connectors and made the relays plug and play at the window motor plugs.

Let me know if you want to know more about the diagram or have any other questions.

IMG_1709.jpg


IMG_1719.jpg
 

Spook50

Skål
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
6,968
Location
Spokane, WA
Hi BK,

I’ve done the relays in my doors ( passenger side front and the two rears ) and I can tell you it made a world of difference. Going from 15-16 seconds to 4-5.

I did however decided to run 12awg power wire into my doors directly from the battery with a fuse installed close to the battery. I didn’t want the current going through the old window switches, because those switches are one of the main source of the problem when your windows are moving slow ( other than bad ground and failing fusible links ) electrically speaking.

Also changed the wiring on the relays and went with the diodes on each relay, so I can keep the window lock out switch functional and keep my switches happy with only a small current flowing through them. Every switch works as intended from the factory.

I don’t like to cut factory wires so I got some connectors and made the relays plug and play at the window motor plugs.

Let me know if you want to know more about the diagram or have any other questions.

View attachment 3081983

View attachment 3081984
You've done exactly what I intend to do, but haven't taken the time to yet. Each door will have four relays save for the driver's door which already has the relay box for the window. Once that's done hopefully I'll have found a feasible replacement for the door lock solenoids that can be a simple conversion.
 
Joined
Mar 3, 2020
Messages
129
Location
Orange, California
Hi Spook50,

I'll bet my morning donuts that the problem with your door locks is do to bad connection or some other electrical issue, not the solenoid.
I've had some issues with my locks also, when I tested the voltage at the solenoid it was only about 7 volts.

After looking into the problem a little more, I've concluded that the 30 some year old switch and connectors are at fault.
Just to prove it further I've supplied 12v to the solenoid directly and the solenoid worked better then ever before.
Locked and unlocked 100% at a time, while before it was a hit and miss.

Just my .02
 
Joined
Mar 25, 2017
Messages
576
Location
SLC, UT
Hi BK,

I’ve done the relays in my doors ( passenger side front and the two rears ) and I can tell you it made a world of difference. Going from 15-16 seconds to 4-5.

I did however decided to run 12awg power wire into my doors directly from the battery with a fuse installed close to the battery. I didn’t want the current going through the old window switches, because those switches are one of the main source of the problem when your windows are moving slow ( other than bad ground and failing fusible links ) electrically speaking.

Also changed the wiring on the relays and went with the diodes on each relay, so I can keep the window lock out switch functional and keep my switches happy with only a small current flowing through them. Every switch works as intended from the factory.

I don’t like to cut factory wires so I got some connectors and made the relays plug and play at the window motor plugs.

Let me know if you want to know more about the diagram or have any other questions.

View attachment 3081983

View attachment 3081984
Dang, well done. That's a clean solution! I'm gonna ask the dreaded Mud question - would you ever sell a set?
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2021
Messages
55
Location
Idaho
At what point does it make sense to just completely re-wire these areas? I plan on doing headlight upgrade also along with eliminating the dangling fuseable links.

BK
 
Joined
Feb 7, 2021
Messages
55
Location
Idaho
Hi BK,

I’ve done the relays in my doors ( passenger side front and the two rears ) and I can tell you it made a world of difference. Going from 15-16 seconds to 4-5.

I did however decided to run 12awg power wire into my doors directly from the battery with a fuse installed close to the battery. I didn’t want the current going through the old window switches, because those switches are one of the main source of the problem when your windows are moving slow ( other than bad ground and failing fusible links ) electrically speaking.

Also changed the wiring on the relays and went with the diodes on each relay, so I can keep the window lock out switch functional and keep my switches happy with only a small current flowing through them. Every switch works as intended from the factory.

I don’t like to cut factory wires so I got some connectors and made the relays plug and play at the window motor plugs.

Let me know if you want to know more about the diagram or have any other questions.

View attachment 3081983

View attachment 3081984
Definitely interested in learning more! Especially if it means running new wire/components rather than disturbing old harness’ and have to chase damaged wiring to other components.

Have you also done headlight wiring updates? Replaced fuseable link mess with fender mounted buss-bar/fuse panel?

BK
 

Spook50

Skål
Supporting Vendor
Joined
Feb 16, 2005
Messages
6,968
Location
Spokane, WA
Hi Spook50,

I'll bet my morning donuts that the problem with your door locks is do to bad connection or some other electrical issue, not the solenoid.
I've had some issues with my locks also, when I tested the voltage at the solenoid it was only about 7 volts.

After looking into the problem a little more, I've concluded that the 30 some year old switch and connectors are at fault.
Just to prove it further I've supplied 12v to the solenoid directly and the solenoid worked better then ever before.
Locked and unlocked 100% at a time, while before it was a hit and miss.

Just my .02
It's a combination of both actually. The weak rear passenger doors are a problem with undersized and inadequate factory wiring; enough so that even with only a single pair of "centralized" relays they struggle more often than not.

Your research is correct though. These connections and switches do deteriorate over time, and maintaining both (to include replacing the switch assemblies when needed) helps to somewhat compensate for the limitations of the wiring and design. One thing that made a big difference for me electrically was soldering every terminal and factory splice I could get to in the front doors. There were four splices in the driver's door, none in the front passenger door, and I have yet to look for any in the rear passengers doors but suspect there isn't any, based on the front passenger door.

With the solenoids themselves, my drivers' door solenoid's rubber seal disintegrated a couple years ago (32 year old rubber at the time) and without finding a viable solution to keep the solenoid sealed, it gets moisture in it and even with keeping it lubricated regularly, it freezes hard multiple times throughout the winter months. No bueno in the inland Northwest. So my desire to find a viable replacement altogether for the solenoids comes from that issue. In the warm weather though it about goes sailing out of the door!

To add, I really like how clean your installation is and how you managed to source OEM style connectors. Did you source them through an online retailer or from one of our Mud suppliers? I'm curious to see what method you used for wiring yours too since you went with relays using integrated diodes. I had been planning on using the instructions shown in this old video:
 
Last edited:
Joined
Mar 3, 2020
Messages
129
Location
Orange, California
The wiring in the video would work. However you would have to modify the factory wiring in the 62 to accommodate that system, if you want the lockout switch to work as intended.

A much simpler way would be to use the factory wires and switches to trigger the newly installed relays.
The relays would switch the current for the window motors ( 5-7 Amps ) and the factory switches would only switch the current needed to trigger the relays ( .1 Amp ) All switches work as before, including the lockout switch. ( I should post the diagram. I’ll draw it up tomorrow and post it )

I guess I owe you a donut. Sometimes I forget about the rain and bad weather, we’re sooo
“ lucky “ here in LA. Nothing but Sunshine!!!

I think the replacement for the solenoid would be a newer style door lock motor. I was going to do that before I figured out my problem. I will post a picture of the one I’d install. If I remember correctly it’s made by DEI.
Much stronger than others on the market. Part number DEI 524N

Thank you for the kind words on my install. I ordered the connectors from Digikey.
 
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