93 fzj80 drivers front power window workers OK in the warm months and won't work without help during cold months. I've heard that usually means the window seal is bad. I replaced window seal yesterday and still seems to be the same. Is there a window track adjustment that could help or is it simply just a worn motor? Appreciate any input
Power window sluggish?
- Thread starter 93landcrusher
- Start date
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Been discussed in the past, try a search for slow window(s), but generally it's a combination of old hardened rubber glass runs along with a weak motor. Occassionally one of the regulator arms can get bent/stuck but when that happens the window glass usually won't open or close all the way or doesn't move at all.
So bottomline, you need to pull the motor and regulator and inspect the regulator for damage. And while it's all apart might as well replace the 30 year old window lift motor and the regulator if the little plastic wheels are worn out or the regulator is tweaked.
An inexpensive solution is a AISIN combo window lift motor and regulator found at Rockauto.
TIP #1: when removing the door panel go slow, pop out ALL the plastic rivets (after removing all screws, connectors, etc) using an Upholstery tool designed for that purpose, make sure you get all of them. Then after everything is disconnected and released, first push the door panel UPWARD, do not grab and just yank on it.
This is because the top of the door panel is pinched in place at the very top against the window glass so you first have to get it up and out to release it. If you grab and pull like a gorilla before it's released you risk breaking the plastic that forms the rounded edge (under the vinyl) at the top of the door panel.
TIP #2: you must reseal the vapor/water barrier that is found behind the door panel/card. It prevents water from damaging the door panel itself and keeps water from trickling inside the cabin . You can carefully peel the plastic barrier away (best) then put it back in place using the original butyl rubber sealant. If you need extra butyl rubber sealant for the plastic vapor barrier 3M Window weld Ribbon Sealer (rope) is very close to the OEM non-hardening sealant. IME 1/8" will work and can be doubled up if you need more, 1/4" may be too wide but it can be stretched to make it narrower.
If you find the barrier cut open (or if you cut or tear into it) you can use flexible clear Vinyl tape to reseal it.
Amazon product ASIN B002NETNL8
The following are some other "while you're in there" things to do:
Tips 3,4,5,6,----:
While the door panel is off is a good time to clean out the door cavity using car wash soap and a hose (disconnect battery first). Inspect for rust, prime and paint. Then if you want apply a big piece of your favorite sound deadening material like Dynamat to the door skin (inside surface), it does make a bit of a difference (less road noise transmitted into the cabin).
Also the crash bar has a few lumps of a specific adhesive foam that often will have come loose from the door skin, it's purpose is to keep the outer door "skin" from vibrating. The original type material is difficult to apply and you need a special gun and cartridges, so in place of that you can take some lumps of the Window Weld rope, roll it up in a ball, and stuff it in the same locations (or over) the original foam adhesive. Do NOT apply anything that cures solid like a two part epoxy between the crash bar and skin, the skin of the door needs to "breath" (expand and contract) due to heat/sun exposure.
Then if your door speaker is trashed (it will be if original), this is a good time to replace that.
You can also take the opportunity to clean out the door lock cylinder by holding a rag on the inside over the cylinder then blast it via the key hole slot with electronics cleaner (won't damage paint), then relub the door lock cylinder. And one more thing to check is the door lock actuator; the grease tends to dry up so you can regrease that using whatever you have on hand. Toyota does sell a grease that can be used but it's very expensive. FWIW
And once everything is cleaned, painted, replaced, repaired the last thing you can do before you button everything up is spray some 3M Cavity wax on the inside of the door cavity for rust protection.
You can buy just the aerosol can for spot treatment or the can and a wand kit to apply the wax into other body cavities, but IMO it's best to clean the interior cavities first (the ones you can get to at least) before spraying the wax.
Amazon product ASIN B0BH6MCT5W
So bottomline, you need to pull the motor and regulator and inspect the regulator for damage. And while it's all apart might as well replace the 30 year old window lift motor and the regulator if the little plastic wheels are worn out or the regulator is tweaked.
An inexpensive solution is a AISIN combo window lift motor and regulator found at Rockauto.
TIP #1: when removing the door panel go slow, pop out ALL the plastic rivets (after removing all screws, connectors, etc) using an Upholstery tool designed for that purpose, make sure you get all of them. Then after everything is disconnected and released, first push the door panel UPWARD, do not grab and just yank on it.
This is because the top of the door panel is pinched in place at the very top against the window glass so you first have to get it up and out to release it. If you grab and pull like a gorilla before it's released you risk breaking the plastic that forms the rounded edge (under the vinyl) at the top of the door panel.
TIP #2: you must reseal the vapor/water barrier that is found behind the door panel/card. It prevents water from damaging the door panel itself and keeps water from trickling inside the cabin . You can carefully peel the plastic barrier away (best) then put it back in place using the original butyl rubber sealant. If you need extra butyl rubber sealant for the plastic vapor barrier 3M Window weld Ribbon Sealer (rope) is very close to the OEM non-hardening sealant. IME 1/8" will work and can be doubled up if you need more, 1/4" may be too wide but it can be stretched to make it narrower.
If you find the barrier cut open (or if you cut or tear into it) you can use flexible clear Vinyl tape to reseal it.
Amazon product ASIN B002NETNL8
The following are some other "while you're in there" things to do:
Tips 3,4,5,6,----:
While the door panel is off is a good time to clean out the door cavity using car wash soap and a hose (disconnect battery first). Inspect for rust, prime and paint. Then if you want apply a big piece of your favorite sound deadening material like Dynamat to the door skin (inside surface), it does make a bit of a difference (less road noise transmitted into the cabin).
Also the crash bar has a few lumps of a specific adhesive foam that often will have come loose from the door skin, it's purpose is to keep the outer door "skin" from vibrating. The original type material is difficult to apply and you need a special gun and cartridges, so in place of that you can take some lumps of the Window Weld rope, roll it up in a ball, and stuff it in the same locations (or over) the original foam adhesive. Do NOT apply anything that cures solid like a two part epoxy between the crash bar and skin, the skin of the door needs to "breath" (expand and contract) due to heat/sun exposure.
Then if your door speaker is trashed (it will be if original), this is a good time to replace that.
You can also take the opportunity to clean out the door lock cylinder by holding a rag on the inside over the cylinder then blast it via the key hole slot with electronics cleaner (won't damage paint), then relub the door lock cylinder. And one more thing to check is the door lock actuator; the grease tends to dry up so you can regrease that using whatever you have on hand. Toyota does sell a grease that can be used but it's very expensive. FWIW
And once everything is cleaned, painted, replaced, repaired the last thing you can do before you button everything up is spray some 3M Cavity wax on the inside of the door cavity for rust protection.
You can buy just the aerosol can for spot treatment or the can and a wand kit to apply the wax into other body cavities, but IMO it's best to clean the interior cavities first (the ones you can get to at least) before spraying the wax.
Amazon product ASIN B0BH6MCT5W
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No window track adjustment, but after installing new motors and regulator my windows close much faster. Some dry locksmith lubricant helped as well.
Here’s a thread discussing the issue. There’s lots more if you don’t find a solution.
forum.ih8mud.com
Here’s a thread discussing the issue. There’s lots more if you don’t find a solution.
Window won't roll-up when weather is cold or wet.
forum.ih8mud.com
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- Thread starter
- #4
Thank you! I'll remove regulator assembly and inspect
After removing the door facing, carefully remove the plastic vapor barrier. You can reuse it, but they are still available from Toyota as well. Helps to have a friend hold the window from dropping during removal of the motor, regulator, and arms, which are attached to the motor. 1 banana job.
There is a motor refresh thread here somewhere. Very interesting and possibly relevant.
But new motors and window runs (assuming the track and frame are good) will solve the issue outright.
But new motors and window runs (assuming the track and frame are good) will solve the issue outright.
- Thread starter
- #8
Here's the problem. It would even bind without the window in.
So looks like force was transmitted to the short track via the long arm on the right which caused the short track to bend. Forcefully pushing down on the window glass to move it might do that or just from the motor torque if the slider got stuck.
How do the plastic wheels look (worn, wobbly, moving freely in the track)?
Either way with new rubber glass runs already installed all you need is a motor and regulator and you're back in business. New OEM motors and regulators are still available from Toyota, with a good discount for around $400 (or the AISIN aftermarket for $80). Take your pick.
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
How do the plastic wheels look (worn, wobbly, moving freely in the track)?
Either way with new rubber glass runs already installed all you need is a motor and regulator and you're back in business. New OEM motors and regulators are still available from Toyota, with a good discount for around $400 (or the AISIN aftermarket for $80). Take your pick.
85720-60011 - Window Motor 1991-1998 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts
Save Money On Your Window Motor (8572060011) For Your 1991-1998 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
69802-60010 - Window Regulator 1991-1998 Toyota Land Cruiser | Ourisman Toyota Parts
Save Money On Your Window Regulator (6980260010) For Your 1991-1998 Toyota Land Cruiser When You Shop With Ourisman Toyota Parts!
toyotaparts.mcgeorgetoyota.com
Last edited:
- Thread starter
- #10
The one for that bent track is torn up
Need to replace the driver window motor/regulator. I've replaced window runs on the rear doors and PS front.
Issue on the DS is that motor is shot and window is stuck in the up position. I replaced the switch hoping it was the issue. Nope.
Plenty of videos on removal and replacement of the motor/regulator, but all show moving the window down to access the two bolts that hold the window channel on.
How can I move the window down to get to those two bolts??
All I can think of is unbolting the motor/regulator assembly and carefully dropping it all down inside the door to access the 2 bolts to remove the glass.
Issue on the DS is that motor is shot and window is stuck in the up position. I replaced the switch hoping it was the issue. Nope.
Plenty of videos on removal and replacement of the motor/regulator, but all show moving the window down to access the two bolts that hold the window channel on.
How can I move the window down to get to those two bolts??
All I can think of is unbolting the motor/regulator assembly and carefully dropping it all down inside the door to access the 2 bolts to remove the glass.
As you mentioned, you'll likely figure it out once you're in there, ie: you could try to physically pull the regulator arm that holds the glass down to get to those bolts or first remove the six bolts holding the regulator and motor to the door then it should come down (quickly).
Be prepared for it all to fall down. You could stuff something inside the door to catch it before you remove the four bolts. I once stuffed one or two full extra large rolls of paper towels (the complete roll, not loose pieces) into the bottom of the door cavity to catch the glass. Then remove the two bolts holding the glass to the regulator.
Be prepared for it all to fall down. You could stuff something inside the door to catch it before you remove the four bolts. I once stuffed one or two full extra large rolls of paper towels (the complete roll, not loose pieces) into the bottom of the door cavity to catch the glass. Then remove the two bolts holding the glass to the regulator.
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Brent,
Is the window tinted? If not get some really good/strong duct tape (Gorilla brand comes to mind). Put several strips from the window on the outside over the door frame and adhere to the inside. IIRC you could then unbolt the regulator and move down in the door. You will probably have to work the regulator a little to get the glass to release from the track. Once that is done you could remove as normal.
I ended up unbolting the regulator, all 6 bolts and held on lowering the regulator and window to a point where I could remove the two bolts holding the glass to the regulator. From there it was easy to pull the window up and out of the way allowing for easy replacement of the window run and installation of the new regulator. I did plug in the new regulator before starting all this to be sure it was a fried motor/regulator and it was.
All buttoned up and back in place working as it should. I can't remember the last decade that the DS window went up and down this quickly. Worth the effort. Both front window runs were rather 'brittle' and hard.