Power window motor options? (1 Viewer)

[IdahoDoug]

So, the 97's driver window has become problematic and with cold weather afoot I tore it apart. Expected to find the motor with heat damage evidence, dried grease, etc. Not really. Cleaned the motor's contacts, greased things up and reassembled. Things looked promising on the bench with the motor moving briskly.

But back in the door it still stalls and then the motor doesn't even try to turn itself. I can tell this by looking at the little gear and taking the strain/load off by lifting on the glass and the motor will barely move after a few back and forth tries in which it moves in diminishing strength. Then, stops trying.

What's the deal with the motor? Anyone with elect. experience explain why the motor is "dying" when it's physically clean, oiled and showing no signs of water or corrosion?

Looking for the latest info on what motor to buy and where to get it. I read through a big search and some felt other models had stronger motors and would fit, etc. Thanks!

DougM

 

[Hte2w8]

Interesting, I spent Sunday removing mine ( thanks to my 4 yr old), disassembling it more than once and putting it back in the door...more than once. Once it got to the down most position it just stopped working both up and down. I squeezed both ends of the track a little so it stops just before it's all the way down...about 1/4 of an inch. It's a stop gap for now but it buys some time.

I'm curious to read the responses. Good luck.

 

[djsherif]

I replaced two of mine with doorman motors for about $50 each. Available all over the net and most parts stores. Work very well. Have you changed your window runs?

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

Got mine at autozone with a lifetime garuntee, for about $65 if I remember. I have spent lots of time reworking the OEM unit, and every part of the DS power window assembly. Now, everything is new, works great, and most importantly, the motor will never, ever die, and if it does, autozone and the best $65 I ever spent will be there.


From my window experience I should add. Age definitely wears out the spring, slowing it down, and I would imagine colder weather would increase the wear out rate. Lots of silicon lube for the tracks. Mine are original, but a shot of lube and it acts like new, for a while. I believe, but not sure, that the power for the window motor runs through the switch. I'm no electrical guru, but I know If I put in a relay with fused power from the battery, that motor would definitely have more go. Its 14 years old, welcome to the club, feel my pain

 

[TX Cruiser]

Armature and brushes need cleaning. Same as the starter, minus a solenoid. Take apart the window motor.

 

[IBCRUSN]

Don't forget too the magnets in the motor will slowly lose their strength as well. There really is no silver bullet component to clean or replace that will revive the original units although new motors will help. Your best bet is to replace the regulator/motor assy with a new OE or aftermarket unit based on funds available. I have at least one on my list to replace when I get back to the States for the very same reasons and they've been apart once or twice already.

 

[rayperkins]

My driver side was slow-ish and then would just stop working for a while.

I also scored a new motor from AutoZone. One thing that is not obvious from the start is that you have to cut the pigtails of the old and new motors and swap them. I was not happy with this as I had no clean fall back plan if it turned out not to be the motor.

I replaced this and the driver side door latch in the first week of owning it. After being trapped inside briefly and some awkward moments where I couldn't move the window I decided it was work spending money to have a clear workable escape plan and backup.

 

[IdahoDoug]

What about swapping a diagonally opposite motor on the vehicle iteself? I've heard the passenger rear is the same clocking/mount where the passenger front is 180 degrees wrong?

And yes, I opened the motor, blew out the armature, cleaned the brushes and the surface they rotate against. To no avail. Also cleaned out the window switches and was excited when I saw the amount of black crud on the switch but it did not help. It's almost like the motor will handle one full up and down, then it warms and loses about 95% of its strength so I'm giving up on the motor.

So, which motor can swap directly for driver's door - am I correct its the opposite side rear?

DougM

 

[Kernal]

Not the parts guru but checking online it appears there may only be two motors, right side and left side?? IDK. Here's a thread where just the plastic gear was swapped.

https://forum.ih8mud.com/80-series-tech/198117-power-window-repair-w-pics.html

 

[waldo2]

Mine are also sluggish. Especially the right rear. I am guessing because it is farther from the battery and a relay would help, but that is just a guess. I plan to replace all window channel rubber first, as recommended in other threads, and then look at replacing the motors. My question is how do the Autozone motors compare to OEM? Are they as strong and as fast? I want the best motors. I want the windows to go up and down with authority. Right now they seem so week and frankly, its embarrasing.

 

[Ebag333]

Someone reported that their problem was the actual power and/or ground to the motor (a connector in the door, IIRC). Have you tried running a straight power and ground to the motor, and see if it behaves any differently?

 

[IdahoDoug]

haven't tried straight power/g. Good idea since the connector is right there under the plastic. Will check.

 

[duggy]

Mine are also sluggish. Especially the right rear. I am guessing because it is farther from the battery and a relay would help, but that is just a guess. I plan to replace all window channel rubber first, as recommended in other threads, and then look at replacing the motors. My question is how do the Autozone motors compare to OEM? Are they as strong and as fast? I want the best motors. I want the windows to go up and down with authority. Right now they seem so week and frankly, its embarrasing.

 

[Jrob80]

Got mine at autozone with a lifetime garuntee, for about $65 if I remember. I have spent lots of time reworking the OEM unit, and every part of the DS power window assembly. Now, everything is new, works great, and most importantly, the motor will never, ever die, and if it does, autozone and the best $65 I ever spent will be there.

Are you replacing the front two motors or all four motors for $65.00? I don't know if I want to know the answer but is this the price for just one motor?

 

[Kernal]

I've seen prices on-line for aftermarket motors from $50 to over $100 each. OEM Toyota window motors run something like $200 each IIRC.

 

[Tenzig Norgay]

$65 for one from autozone, and it works great with lots of speed, far faster then the oem(mine was old and slow). I did notice last winter that it slowed a bit when the temps really plumited(like -20), but was never frozen shut like before, just blasted its way open. In the winter, I try not to open the window until the truck is nice and warm however.

I forgot about changing the plug, but it was very simple, think I used a pin to release the tiny spade thingy on the end of the wire inside the connector, then just slide them into the proper one.

One time before I got the autozone motor, my plastic gear broke, I took the gear from my old 4runner PW motor, and had to adapt it to work in the LC PW motor. It was just a little sanding of a raised area and drilling a hole in it, but the gear was the exact same dimensions and it work stellar, until the PW motor housing cracked in a weaker area a couple of years later. Then I used a metal banding strap to hold it together, finally it fried.

 

[IdahoDoug]

Wow, you get the prize for continuing to keep a part in service! Sounds like me.

So anyone know which other motors will work? I've got 2 Cruisers and will swap what I need to make that driver's window work.

DougM

 

[Kernal]

I think this is a job for CDan or Beno.

FWIW this is what I found:

85720-60011 Left Front motor and Right Front motor 90-98


85720-60020 Left Rear 90-96
85720-60080 Left Rear 96-98

85710-60020 Right Rear 90-96
85710-60080 Right Rear 96-98

ps: check with the experts above

 

[IdahoDoug]

Bummer. So at this point it looks like only the fronts will transfer directly to each other? I didn't want to do that figuring a front pass would lower it at a bad time (raining, etc) but a rear pass would be less odds. I'll PM Beno to confirm. Thank you for your research!

DougM

 

[Kernal]

What has me confused is that one parts web site I checked (toyotapartscheap) only offered two motors; right and left, no front and rear??