Power window help needed (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Jul 13, 2014
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6
Messages
48
Location
Clayton, NC
Total noob with Land Cruisers here. I purchased my 93 TLC about a month ago and noticed at the time that the rear power windows would not roll up or down. I've searched extensively and didn't find any similar problems. The PO told me he removed an aftermarket alarm system that was draining the battery and after the removal the rear windows wouldn't work. He tried to figure out what happened, but gave up when he couldn't find any obvious wiring problems.

Both front windows work as does the lockout on the drivers door control. The rear window motors work with a 12V power supply directly to them. It doesn't appear to be the window switches either as I swapped the passenger control with both rear controls. I've traced the wiring to the kick panel loom and didn't see any damaged wires.

I don't have a wiring diagram to figure out if there is a separate power wire for the rear windows. Would a bad main relay (drivers kick panel) cause problems with only the rear windows? Would a bad fuse cause only the rear windows to not work? I'm having a hard time wrapping my head around why only the rear windows have been impacted. Any help would be appreciated.

Mike
 
I think you'll need an EWD to fix this. Or you can disassemble the interior and physically trace the wires and test continuity/voltage. Id think the first place to look is under the dash and in the DS kickpanel. But thats just a guess. I've read about lots of problems associated with alarm systems, but not this one! I found my EWD on fleabay and it's paid for itself several times over. These trucks have a lot of wires in 'em. Good luck! Hopefully someone can chime in with more specific advice.
 
I always said that if my power windows failed I'd switch to manual roll up windows. Something about cranking a window is so appealing.
 
I will check out the wiring diagram when I get back into town tomorrow evening and let you know if I found anything useful.
 
This should help...'93 EWD
 

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Hmmmm, if you can't open the attachments, pm me and I'll email them to you.
 
Cool Cool Crusha!

I was hoping someone with better computer skills would do that...

Go Mud!
 
kinda related.. and wonder if is there any experience with this " particular " issue ..

My front pass side window will roll up and down from the master switch .. but will only go down from the pass door switch .. at first I thought was the switch, but then I try another one was working right in other window .. and it wasn't the issue ..
 
If the window is working (Going up and down) from the other switches then the window wiring is probably fine.
I found the biggest problem was burnt contacts on the switches Both the master and the individual door switches. I got around this by adding relays at each door, this way the master and control switches only need to supply the relay switching voltage(current) not the motor current and now all my windows work great.

The problems stem from the contacts in the master and door switches becoming burnt and pitted and not able to supply the current needed to operate the motor.

Also a point to note is make sure the plugs are clean and use some contact cleaner when you plug it all back ogether
 
Thoroughly cleaning/removing excessive carbon buildup at the master switch (numerous little silver rockers effect circuit closure/opening) solved my window issues (slow speeds and including my driver's-side rear only going down from the master but both up/down from that door's switch itself).

If you ever do dig into the master switch, be careful about the lockout plunger (disables passengers from raising/lowering windows) - if you don't leave it where it sits (literally just leave it in its seated position, don't take it out!), it's easy for a tiny little spring to pop out of its seat and then you're in for a helluva learning curve getting that back in there the first time (assuming you're lucky enough to find it in the first place).

Good luck....hope this helps.
 
I'm no electrical guru and could be wrong, but it appears that all power to the windows goes through the master switch? The lockout switch appears to go from the master to the passenger side and both rear windows. I can hit the lockout switch and the passenger side won't go up or down, but when I unlock it the passenger side works. Neither rear works with the lockout in either position, so that rules out that common source of the problem. To me the wiring diagram indicates that the PO may not have inadvertently cut a wire while removing the alarm. The issue looks like it may be the master panel switch with a damaged circuit going to the rear switches, if the damage is before the first switch. The rear switches on the master panel look to be wired to the rear window switches. Does it makes sense that the rear window switch won't work if the corresponding master panel doesn't work? If you had one rear window that doesn't work, it would either be the switch at the rear window or that window switch on the master panel? If this is true, it shouldn't be that hard to figure out with a multimeter if I need a new master panel.
 

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