Power Steering Pump/Hose replacement (1 Viewer)

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I don't post much, by I often come on here to read up on how to do something. This site always delivers.

Right now, my power steering pump and hose are both leaking and need to be replaced. One shop quoted about $600 parts and labor but I have next week off and want to do it myself. I'm fairly well equipped with tools and a heated garage so that's good. I'm currently researching parts and procedure on the forum and I'm opening this thread if I have specific questions.

If there's any tips on what threads to refer to or where to source the parts, feel free. Otherwise, I'll go about my merry way and chronicle my experience here if it helps others.
 
Well I'm in the middle of this job and I'm following along in Romer's faq thread on the procedure. I notice these two items are are laying on the garage floor. Did I miss something? At any given time the way things are moving along, these could have fallen from somewhere. Please help. What are these and where do they go? They look pretty important.....

IMAG0886.jpg
 
Looks like the pressure relief valve/spring that goes in the pressure outlet port. Are you using a FSM? This manual is a necessity for the do-it-yourselfer.
 
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Another thing I'm having trouble with is getting the flare nut off the pressure house at the gear box. I used PB blaster. Using a 17mm flare wrench, the hex started rounding. Looks like I need to cut it, but it's tight in there. Any other ideas?
 
Another thing I'm having trouble with is getting the flare nut off the pressure house at the gear box. I used PB blaster. Using a 17mm flare wrench, the hex started rounding. Looks like I need to cut it, but it's tight in there. Any other ideas?
At this point I usually smile and be glad I can just go the other way for a while and think about it because my 80 is not a DD. Sometimes leaving the situation alone for a few days renders positive results. I like to think that my mistress gets lonely for attention and becomes more cooperative once I leave her on ice for a while. Does this make sense?
 
Not any help to that last part but just a heads up. Measure the distance the gear sits off from the face of the pump and reinstall gear on new or rebuilt pump at same height! Failing to do so could cause a ticking sound that may just cause you to rebuild your entire motor unnecessarily. Just Ask Concrete jungle (who btw I believe has a good PS rebuild thread in FAQ)
 
Not any help to that last part but just a heads up. Measure the distance the gear sits off from the face of the pump and reinstall gear on new or rebuilt pump at same height! Failing to do so could cause a ticking sound that may just cause you to rebuild your entire motor unnecessarily. Just Ask Concrete jungle (who btw I believe has a good PS rebuild thread in FAQ)
This is exactly the kind of info that's given in the FSM and the reason why you absolutely need one to do your own maintenance.
 
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Well I'm in the middle of this job and I'm following along in Romer's faq thread on the procedure. I notice these two items are are laying on the garage floor. Did I miss something? At any given time the way things are moving along, these could have fallen from somewhere. Please help. What are these and where do they go? They look pretty important.....
Spring goes in first, then the spool. The "notched" end faces outward toward the plug.
x2 on the FSM. There are threads where you can download them for free. Or search sites by googling "Toyota Parts" and you may find some exploded views. Either way, you'll need a FSM for proper installation torques, etc.
 
Another thing I'm having trouble with is getting the flare nut off the pressure house at the gear box. I used PB blaster. Using a 17mm flare wrench, the hex started rounding. Looks like I need to cut it, but it's tight in there. Any other ideas?
Not much else to offer here except that I had to remove an adjacent flare fitting first to get better access to the high pressure hose flare fitting. Like mentioned before, letting it sit for awhile (and let that PB blaster work its way in) sure helps. I too get better ideas after I walk away for bit.
 
Cut the old hose out at the hard line a couple inches away from the banjo. Most likely when you try to break it loose the whole assembly will spin not the banjo bolt. I tried a crows foot, said fawk it and went to town.

Also make sure if you decide to remove the bearing, you don't mess up the grey oiling bearing and look at the vanes and make sure they go back with the rounded edge facing out.
 
(sorry for the thread jack)
Does anyone know if the engine can be started / run without the power steering pump attached? I am trying to troublehsoot a possible ticking/rattle noice that I beleive is coming from the power steering pump.
 
Thanks for the help guys. Yeah, that flare nut isn't budging. I don't have a cutting tool that is small enough and has enough power to get in there. Looks like another tool i'llh have to add to the arsenal.

Btw, that relief valve was from the old pump. When I pulled the banjo bolt from the pump, everything came with it exposing that valve. It must have dropped out unbeknownst when I was removing the pump.

Thanks again.
 
Use a large pair of dykes or cable cutter. Not hard to do. Hopefully you took the battery and tray out.
 
Yeah, that's a good idea. I'll have to get something like that. Yes, I removed the battery and tray. A extra few minutes to remove and reinstall that saves lots of time. Also removed the oil filter and changing the oil since I'm due for that anyway.

Thanks
 
(sorry for the thread jack)
Does anyone know if the engine can be started / run without the power steering pump attached? I am trying to troublehsoot a possible ticking/rattle noice that I beleive is coming from the power steering pump.
Yes it can but it will spew oil all over unless you cover the hole. Keep the hoses out of the fan, also
 
Well I got the job done but I think I have to do it again. I'm getting the dreaded rattle from the gear. I couldn't get it on anymore than it was already on. I'm going to have to take it back out, but when I do, what ami supposed to do? I don't want to hammer it like some hack. What do you guys do to seat that all the way down?
 
Alright, I'm done. What did I learn? Seat that gear onto the pump properly. I had to take it to my buddy's shop and he used his press to get it on just another mm or so. That quieted things down.



Next, the return line has an o-ring where it connects to the PS pump. Mine was brittle and separating that line from the original pump compromised its sealing properties. It was leaking like a sieve on the new pump. I had to get an o-ring for it and it's sealing properly now.



After all this, I had to bleed it......for the third time. I'm mainly posting this part here to remind me of how to do it and i'll apply it to my other cars. Who knows, maybe it'll help someone.



Since I had to refill the fluid after replacing the o-ring on the return line, I didn't have the opportunity to prime the pump. Nevertheless, my method worked first time.



First, After filling with fluid, raise the front end tires off the ground. With the engine not running and the reservoir cap removed, turn the wheel lock to lock. Touch each side about ten times. Next, start the engine and repeat however, this time, when you lock all the way to each side, hold it there for about 5 seconds every time. Again, about ten times per side. Now, lower the front all the way down. Repeat the previous step with the tires on the ground this time. That's it. Take it for a drive, check for leaks, and have a cigar. ;). If after that, you still hear whining when you turn, you may have a leak that's bringing air into the equation. Ask me how I know. :(
 

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