Power steering line leak (1 Viewer)

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Joined
Apr 8, 2023
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Location
australia
Hi guys any suggestions or know-how on how I can stop this power steering line leaking? I just replaced the reservoir cap because it was leaking and I just now noticed it’s coming out from this connection also

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Ok, so a decent hose clamp wouldn’t do the trick?
It's got a decent hose clamp on it. It's probably not even leaking from there, that's the bottom of the hose; the leak could be anywhere above that.
 
It's got a decent hose clamp on it. It's probably not even leaking from there, that's the bottom of the hose; the leak could be anywhere above that.
That’s a factory hose clamp that’s been there for 24 years and I’ve also degreased and checked that is confirmed where it’s leaking. I just posted and asked incase anyone had dealt with the same issue and replaced the factory clamps with adjustable hose clamps. Cheers
 
That’s a factory hose clamp that’s been there for 24 years and I’ve also degreased and checked that is confirmed where it’s leaking. I just posted and asked incase anyone had dealt with the same issue and replaced the factory clamps with adjustable hose clamps. Cheers
Also that picture was taken upside down sorry
 
@NLXTACY sells the replacement hoses for the power steering pump and are great quality. Power steering hoses be advised shipping times take a little while as he is the only person doing the shipping and packaging.
 
That’s a factory hose clamp that’s been there for 24 years and I’ve also degreased and checked that is confirmed where it’s leaking. I just posted and asked incase anyone had dealt with the same issue and replaced the factory clamps with adjustable hose clamps. Cheers
That old factory hose clamp is superior to any worm drive clamp you might replace it with. If you don't trust it because it's old, you could always get a new factory hose clamp for a couple of dollars, but that's probably not necessary. Even if it was the hose clamp that failed, which is extremely unlikely, it lasted 23+ years- that's a pretty good track record. However, if that's the factory hose, I guarantee it's rock hard and putting a new hose clamp of any kind isn't going to fix the problem for long, if at all.
 
One other option, assuming the hose itself doesn't have defect/leak you could try a Gates PowerGrip SB clamp. Slide the band over the hose with ~3/16 extended beyond the end of the hose then apply heat (heat gun). The clamp will shrink down squeezing the hose better than a metal clamp. The section of clamp that is past the end of the hose will pull in helping with a tight seal.


Having that that, might be better to just replace the line if it's the original
using new OEM clamps.

Only drawback to the PowerGrip clamps is they are not reusable as they're
destroyed when removed. I use them in areas I don't plan on touching again for 20+ years (firewall hoses, PHH, ---)
 
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Thanks for all the informative replies friends, I have taken in all you have said and will keep all in back of mind. I went ahead and replaced both factory clamps with triton adjustable hose clamps that have the 8mm socket attachment to really get them tight. So far so good after a test drive into town and back about 25mins each way the leak appears to have ceased. I will of course keep an eye on it. Hose doesn’t feel hard or have any cracks from what I can see. I just tightened the clamps up fairly damn tight with the 8mm socket. 🍻

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Thanks for all the informative replies friends, I have taken in all you have said and will keep all in back of mind. I went ahead and replaced both factory clamps with triton adjustable hose clamps that have the 8mm socket attachment to really get them tight. So far so good after a test drive into town and back about 25mins each way the leak appears to have ceased. I will of course keep an eye on it. Hose doesn’t feel hard or have any cracks from what I can see. I just tightened the clamps up fairly damn tight with the 8mm socket. 🍻

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Why not just swap the line? It's obvious it needs replacing (based on age).
 
So you ask a question here. You get multiple replies from knowledgeable members telling you exactly how to fix your problem. Then you go ahead with a ghetto "fix" that not a single person here suggested? :facepalm: Why ask the question then?

Here's a suggestion that i think you're gonna like. In a few days/weeks when your genius repair idea fails, why don't you try again by doubling up on those bad-ass Triton clamps? Or better yet, stack a few of them on top of each other so you can put some real pressure on those bad boys.
 
So you ask a question here. You get multiple replies from knowledgeable members telling you exactly how to fix your problem. Then you go ahead with a ghetto "fix" that not a single person here suggested? :facepalm: Why ask the question then?

Here's a suggestion that i think you're gonna like. In a few days/weeks when your genius repair idea fails, why don't you try again by doubling up on those bad-ass Triton clamps? Or better yet, stack a few of them on top of each other so you can put some real pressure on those bad boys.
Hi turbo Dennis, I’m sorry that you feel you needed to add that mildly hostile reply to this thread. I asked purely to see if anyone else had used hose clamps, maybe I could have worded it slightly better to begin with. Although what I didn’t mention and apologise for not mentioning is both hoses have actually been replaced recently as I had the vehicle in a shop to get a complete engine over haul done, and fluid was still weeping out of the connections (for reasons I am not aware of) so my thinking is put a hose clamp on that I can adjust the tightness. Because clearly the factory clamps were not clamping the hose tight enough - Which, has actually worked quite well. I have done around 1000km since I first posted this question and the hose clamps have not failed, so it may be classed as ‘ghetto’ as you say but for me it’s worked very well, stopped the weeping leaks and cost me about $10. Those factory clamps lose there clamping strength over time. So all in all I was actually just curious to see if anyone else ever used hose clamps and if they had success. I didn’t come here to have arguments or even debates. I’m a friendly guy and I don’t really think your reply was very mature, there is no need to be a dick about it and make sarcastic comments, it achieves very little if anything.
 
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Hi turbo Dennis, I’m sorry that you feel you needed to add that mildly hostile reply to this thread. I asked purely to see if anyone else had used hose clamps, maybe I could have worded it slightly better to begin with. Although what I didn’t mention and apologise for not mentioning is both hoses have actually been replaced recently as I had the vehicle in a shop to get a complete engine over haul done, and fluid was still weeping out of the connections (for reasons I am not aware of) so my thinking is put a hose clamp on that I can adjust the tightness. Because clearly the factory clamps were not clamping the hose tight enough - Which, has actually worked quite well. I have done around 1000km since I first posted this question and the hose clamps have not failed, so it may be classed as ‘ghetto’ as you say but for me it’s worked very well, stopped the weeping leaks and cost me about $10. Those factory clamps lose there clamping strength over time. So all in all I was actually just curious to see if anyone else ever used hose clamps and if they had success. I didn’t come here to have arguments or even debates. I’m a friendly guy and I don’t really think your reply was very mature, there is no need to be a dick about it and make sarcastic comments, it achieves very little if anything.

Im not interested in getting into an argument either, so i'll get straight to the technical points:
1) The hose on your picture has definitely not been replaced recently. You can clearly see the chip in the rubber on the edge of that hose. Old hoses become stiff and brittle (starting at the ends), and this is exactly what happens - they crack/chip (and leak) there. There's no possible way a new hose would have a chip like this. So you're either making this up, or the shop that told you they replaced this hose lied to you.
2) The fact that your "repair" worked so far doesn't mean that that it's the proper (non-ghetto) repair, and doesn't mean that it's gonna last (it won't).
3) Ask yourself this (you'll obviously need to do a bunch of research to answer this): why is it that there is NOT A SINGLE worm-type clamp used on your LC from the factory on hoses that carry hot fluids? Hint: it's not because Toyota couldn't afford to use Triton worm clamps.

Im a friendly and helpful guy as well, and I'm sorry that you felt that me pointing out bad advice/misinformation is immature/mildly hostile.
 
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Im not interested in getting into an argument either, so i'll get straight to the technical points:
1) The hose on your picture has definitely not been replaced recently. You can clearly see the chip in the rubber on the edge of that hose. Old hoses become stiff and brittle (starting at the ends), and this is exactly what happens - they crack/chip (and leak) there. There's no possible way a new hose would have a chip like this. So you're either making this up, or the shop that told you they replaced this hose lied to you.
2) The fact that your "repair" worked so far doesn't mean that that it's the proper (non-ghetto) repair, and doesn't mean that it's gonna last (it won't).
3) Ask yourself this (you'll obviously need to do a bunch of research to answer this): why is it that there is NOT A SINGLE worm-type clamp used on your LC from the factory on hoses that carry hot fluids? Hint: it's not because Toyota couldn't afford to use Triton worm clamps.

Im a friendly and helpful guy as well, and I'm sorry that you felt that me pointing out bad advice/misinformation is immature/mildly hostile.
When you have a mature vehicle it is tempting to let the repair be the solution. I do agree what has been done is a new failure point and god knows there is no need to introduce new ones of our own accord especially when these vehicles are prone to off-roading without ready rescue typically.
How difficult is it to replace this hose? I assume this is the return hose and ties into the top of the steering rack.
 
Im not interested in getting into an argument either, so i'll get straight to the technical points:
1) The hose on your picture has definitely not been replaced recently. You can clearly see the chip in the rubber on the edge of that hose. Old hoses become stiff and brittle (starting at the ends), and this is exactly what happens - they crack/chip (and leak) there. There's no possible way a new hose would have a chip like this. So you're either making this up, or the shop that told you they replaced this hose lied to you.
2) The fact that your "repair" worked so far doesn't mean that that it's the proper (non-ghetto) repair, and doesn't mean that it's gonna last (it won't).
3) Ask yourself this (you'll obviously need to do a bunch of research to answer this): why is it that there is NOT A SINGLE worm-type clamp used on your LC from the factory on hoses that carry hot fluids? Hint: it's not because Toyota couldn't afford to use Triton worm clamps.

Im a friendly and helpful guy as well, and I'm sorry that you felt that me pointing out bad advice/misinformation is immature/mildly hostile.

Listen to this guy, here's my hose...lost the battle that night but won the war the day after. Was leaking the same way yours was.

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Did a whole, replace the radiator, power steering pump, high pressure line, clamps, belts, and more cause you know.."while you're in there"
 
When you have a mature vehicle it is tempting to let the repair be the solution. I do agree what has been done is a new failure point and god knows there is no need to introduce new ones of our own accord especially when these vehicles are prone to off-roading without ready rescue typically.
How difficult is it to replace this hose? I assume this is the return hose and ties into the top of the steering rack.
It’s the low pressure line from the PS reservoir to the PS pump. You can replace it in about 15 minutes.
 
It’s the low pressure line from the PS reservoir to the PS pump. You can replace it in about 15 minutes.
I thought this hose went all the way down to the steering gear unit and fit with a banjo on the top side, I stand corrected.
 

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