Power Steering in 2021 (1 Viewer)

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woytovich

Science...
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So things change, availability of parts changes, prices change... given all of that I'm getting ready to do Saginaw PS on my 40 and wanted to explore options based on current and anticipated future availability of parts. I HAD a pretty god take on this a few years ago but I've heard FJ60 boxes are hard to come by (?) and the other options below seem like thy might be solutions that were viable once but are less and less so in 2021.
The stock steering had already been removed by the PO and a manual Saginaw bos installed. Currently that box and bracket has been removed. None of the existing Saginaw stuff remains.
Truck will likely run 36" rubber and will do some mild rock crawling, it will remain spring under.
So... given this blank slate and the desire to have options for parts I am looking for recommendations for the box end of things from those that have done PS and have lived to tell the tale. (I'm not interested in electric PS by the way)
I'll PROBABLY use a Saginaw pump (unless another option rises to the top)
Scout?
Astro?
FJ60?
FJ80?

Thanks.
 
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I did 60 series and it is worth it. 20+ years with a manual box and this mod made driving much easier and enjoyable. Turns 35s easily. Did everything myself minus 2 welds.
 
I did 60 series and it is worth it. 20+ years with a manual box and this mod made driving much easier and enjoyable. Turns 35s easily. Did everything myself minus 2 welds.
Did you use a "kit"?
 
I got the Scout box, love it. No complaints, turns 37s
No kit, had a great fabricator
 
Consider City Racer electric PS. Easy to do. Works well.
 
Nope, sourced the needed Toyota parts and fabbed the rest. YouTube has a couple tutorials out there plus there is an old Toyota trails article that Mark W wrote that I used for guidance. There are several ways it can be done depending on your fabrication skills, I chose to use mostly Toyota parts with minimal welding requirements.

My particular version uses a 60 series box with the stock shock tower notched and the radiator moved over 1 inch. 60 series pump mounted in the stock location with a pulley tensioner, custom relay rod and steering shaft joined with an FJ55 steering column.

Took a few weekends to complete but I'm very satisfied with the results.
 
Again everyone... I'm trying to find out if as prices and availability have changed is one of these options less viable now. For example: "The prices for FJ60 boxes have gone through the roof because they are less and less available so the XXX is better now." sort of thing.
 
Having just done a 60 box (at long last) this summer… All stock Toyota parts except for the pitman arm (sky mfg reamed to fit 60/70 series tre) and ford shock towers and a bit of fab work to make a stock 60 2H pump fit a 2H with no provision for a PS pump.

RHD, bit still works with 55 column and 60 series collapsible intermediate shaft.

Definitely a reason why it’s been done a thousand times. Off the self parts for everything except pitman.

I wanted to keep as much “Toyota” as possible for ease of replacement parts.

Not saying other options aren’t as good or better… but mostly unmodified Toyota parts made the most sense to me.


Late *60 box same bolt pattern as 80… no shortage of either as far as I can tell.

Also have a pre ‘74 55 column I’m not gonna use. 😉


YMMV

Cheers
Crusty
 
Wheelbarrow wheel bearing and a borgsen ujoint was way easier than sourcing a 55 column.
 
I did the Fj80 and like it. I think I paid $250 for a used box from someone parting one out on CL. I made the mounting bracket from some plate and tube. It wasn’t brain surgery, but I must have mounted and moved it around for couple hours before I decided on final setup. I reused the original shock tower and notched it. For the column to box linkage I used the oem collapsible shaft and a aftermarket ujoint($30). I asked for the shaft with the box- they’re not really as valuable to a scrapper. I did have a friend weld the mount up, as I wasn’t confident. The pitarm from the 80 lined up well.

I did spend some money on the drag link, tie rod and tre’s. I already had the mini truck steering arms and they mated up to fj60 ends(new from Cruiser Outfiffers). The links I had made out of DOM at Front Range Offroad.

I’m guessing I was $600-$750 into it and that was ~4years ago. I’d do it again.

All that being said, if you are set up for Saginaw and you see big tires in your future, you might as well stick with Saginaw. It’s rumored to be better at beefier tires. The 80 box does well with 35’s, but I’d want assist for much bigger.
 
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Sagging pump with double pulley.

BTW, things are tighter than in a stock 40 (with the P/S pump, Steering box, A/C compressor (now onboard air), pressure & return lines, and steering shaft all in the same corner). But there’s more than an inch clearance between things… it’s no modern car with no space (or a 7.3 diesel E350 Ambo engine bay).

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80-81 Toyota Pickup TRE and stock 40 tie rod.

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Scab plates & Scout II box.

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Beck Arnley P/N.

2128D743-F9B5-4DFD-B0F0-3469154AA3A8.jpeg

DOM crush sleeves.

Flaming River DD U-joints & Slip shaft.

Scout II Power steering.
 
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OEM bearing at ignition end of column.

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New bearing for bottom end of steering column.

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Modified stock steering shaft to fit attached DD U-joint, Flaming River DD slip shaft, Flaming River DD U-joint to Scout II steering box.

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Stock Scout II lines from Rock Auto.

:D

Gates 7350 belt.

Hardest part so far has been figuring out and mounting the right Saginaw P/S pump on an old SBC and plumbing it in.

Once all finished it’ll look like it came that way… other than the 1/4” scab plates welded onto an otherwise riveted frame. :grinpimp:
 
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I can't find anywhere above where you gave your year model. If you consider a Saginaw conversion I can help on pricing, I have a lot of what you need in my ebay store (package deal available), and I can supply the original Downey Off Road Mfg. installation instruction manual. I have the gear box mounting plate, the steering drive shaft with u-joints, the firewall anchor plate and bearing if your's is 9/72-older model, and a righteous/trimable power steering hose kit.
 
Based on what I saw here,

The logically choice would be a Saginaw box. Use the plates you have. Cut off the crap that was there, and mount a “new” Saginaw P/S box. I preferred to do a Scout box to avoid cutting through the crossmember and keep the box in the engine bay. That said, it’d be easier to beef up the front crossmember and do a standard Saginaw P/S install than replace your front crossmember.

Rebuilt Scout II boxes appear to be reasonably available, but you’re going to eat the core charge. The shock towers also need to be modified, scab plate frame, crush sleeves, etc. With 36” tires the pinion shaft is longer and potentially somewhat weekend.

It doesn’t sound like a show rig do I’d take the path of least resistance and go with a box you can find any day of the week in North America.
 
It doesn’t sound like a show rig do I’d take the path of least resistance and go with a box you can find any day of the week in North America.
It isn't a show rig. I like the IDEA of a 60 box but, as noted, I am part way there with the Saginaw plan. Another reason for considering other options: I have an M8000 winch I wanted to use but that seems to be a problem with the box mount I have that sticks up above the frame rail.
 
I can't find anywhere above where you gave your year model. If you consider a Saginaw conversion I can help on pricing, I have a lot of what you need in my ebay store (package deal available), and I can supply the original Downey Off Road Mfg. installation instruction manual. I have the gear box mounting plate, the steering drive shaft with u-joints, the firewall anchor plate and bearing if your's is 9/72-older model, and a righteous/trimable power steering hose kit.
I am doing a Saginaw on my 72. Got scab plates and a box. I still need the column plate and steering shaft and u joints and a pump mount, lines and a pulley.

I have done this before and it worked a peach. I got my box on Rockauto.
 

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