Power Steering Hard Line Nut - Immovable Object vs. Unstoppable Force (1 Viewer)

[GOLIGHTLY]

I'm working on refreshing the power steering system and have so far replaced all the hoses, rebuilt the pump and am replacing the hardlines. I'm having a HELL of a time backing out the hard line nut on the drivers side of the vehicle (not the open nut, that wasn't an issue, but the upper nut, with the rigid hose running through it). I've circled the one in the below image. Note: circled poorly. I've pulled the oil filter to buy a little space, but still don't have clearance to get at the 17mm fastener.

Does anyone have any experience getting that guy undone? Considering fabricating a custom tool for this due to the difficulty of access.

 

[super90]

I cut the hardline and just put a socket over the fitting. Then used a vac and swabs to remove any shavings. Not my proudest moment, but it worked. And no issues since then. About three years ago.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

I cut the hardline and just put a socket over the fitting. Then used a vac and swabs to remove any shavings. Not my proudest moment, but it worked. And no issues since then. About three years ago.

I think I may have read you mentioning that in another thread on here. That's what I was leaning towards. And did you just hand-tighten the replacement line?

 

[saucebox]

Crows-foot flare nut wrenches did it for me. Then you can index a ratchet to get some purchase on it.

 

[super90]

Crowsfoot might work for you. Great tip. I couldnt get it to work in my case. Seems the fitting was clocked exactly wrong for me to get one on. I have two or three types of crowsfeet. No joy when I did it.

I hope you have better luck.

Keep the Cruiser Faith !!

R.

 

[GOLIGHTLY]

Thanks both of yall. My Ace Hardware was out of the crows feet so I tried something else first, knowing that the nut would be unaffected.

In an extremely surgical and precise manner, I applied moderate to high force to the rear of an inclined plane, at the base of the hardline (whacked the s*** out of the hose with a chisel). If I had to rate my handiwork, I’d give it ️️️️. Lost a star for lack of professionalism.

Cleaved the hose off of the nut itself pretty cleanly, left ample access for a breaker bar and a 17mm socket. Light work.

Please note: my liberal use of profanity doesn’t mean I didn’t employ some common sense. Make sure you’re not risking blasting through anything else behind the hose with the chisel.

 

[ramangain]

If I had to rate my handiwork, I’d give it ️️️️. Lost a star for lack of professionalism.

We are our own worst critic

 

[flintknapper]

Crows-foot flare nut wrenches did it for me. Then you can index a ratchet to get some purchase on it.

^^^^

Worked for me.

 

[2001LC]

Installing you'll need the 3/8" drive 17mm flare crowfoot previously mentioned, with 3" extension for your torque wrench. I like to put drop of oil on pipe where it pass inside through flare nut. I then thread on by hand easily. Using the 3" extension, you'll be able to find point to grab nut and turn ~30 degrees.

I did have issue a few weeks ago, while replacing a rack. Seem someone put stop leak (hate the stuff) in system. Not only hard to get flare nut and banjo bolt off. But the low pressure pipe was glued to the flare nut. Pipe was destroyed incidentally and cut off much like you did.