Power steering gear and replacement issues (1 Viewer)

[former0321]

So last weekend I followed both CruiserDan’s and Romer’s instructionals on replacing the power steering pump. I measured the height of the gear on the old pump and placed the old gear and key on the new pump. Torqued it down to 54lbs....and the height wasn’t the same. Regardless, I followed the instructions and placed the PS pump back in, went through bleeding the system of air, and it was making a buzzing noise. I know this is incorrect from other threads, because it means the teeth aren’t matched up properly.
Round 2...pulled it off again....checked for damage to the teeth which could cause the noise. Like I stated before, it’s more of a buzzing than a clicking. It isn’t loud, but it’s there. Started from scratch, and again height didn’t match. Reinstalled, still a buzzing.
Round 3 I tried a different route, as someone said they just put the old gear on the new pump, put the bolt on and hit it with the impact gun. I chose this....and the height was near dead on. Still some buzzing though....not loud, but there.
It’s fully functional and works just fine the last couple of days. So....does a new PS pump make a little noise, or should it be pretty silent? Should I pull the pump to ensure when the vehicle is started that the noise is in fact the pump? Is that safe? Another route I
May go is to reinstall it on the old PS pump and torque it down to re-check the height, then pull and install on the new pump again. Thanks for comments and feedback.

 

[coonassjohn]

Every time a pump made a buzzing sound for me it was low on fluid.

 

[Tools R Us]

The depth of the gear really doesn't matter, as long as it is properly over the key and torqued, good to go. Different gears and shafts will set at slightly differing heights, doesn't matter.

Most likely you are hearing bubbles from the system being filled, just about impossible to get all of them out in one shot. Fill it, get all that you can out, take it for a drive or run for a bit, all to cool, check fluid level, repeat. After a few drive cycles it should shut up and the fluid level will stabilize.

 

[coonassjohn]

If you jack the front and cycle the steering from lock to lock several times with the engine running it will bleed the system.

 

[ajax1]

I never measure just hit it with impact , agree with check level make sure all air is out and drive it

 

[Red Merle]

If you jack the front and cycle the steering from lock to lock several times with the engine running it will bleed the system.

This is a great way to swap out the fluid btw. Takes 20 minutes.

 

[Jgunner]

Doing my ps pump tomorrow, good timing!

 

[Tools R Us]

If you jack the front and cycle the steering from lock to lock several times with the engine running it will bleed the system.

If you are going to the trouble to jack it, there is no need for it to be running, will do a better job with the motor off. That said, we just fill it to the metal ring, hit starter until the motor fires, immediately turn it off, refill to the correct level, repeat until the level no longer changes and drive. Check the level before the next couple of drives.

 

[Rifleman]

Since the bore of the gear your installing, and the power steering pump shaft your installing it on, are both tapered, the gear can only slide on so far, regardless of how tight you make the nut.

 

[former0321]

Copy All......going to jack up the rig and bleed the system again, with the engine off. Checked the fluid level this morning before heading to work and she needed a little bit of fluid. I remember reading, and observing, how both the gear and shaft are tapered and can only go down so far. Thoughts on pulling the power steering pump and starting the engine to make sure its the pump causing the sound? Thanks again,
Buck

 

[former0321]

Additional thoughts.....just wanted to make sure that the gear being too far forward or too far back would not result in it rubbing on anything? The gears not mating up flush makes no real difference? I mean....the PS Pump has always worked regardless of the height of the gear.

 

[coonassjohn]

If you are going to the trouble to jack it, there is no need for it to be running, will do a better job with the motor off. That said, we just fill it to the metal ring, hit starter until the motor fires, immediately turn it off, refill to the correct level, repeat until the level no longer changes and drive. Check the level before the next couple of drives.

I think that's what I said except I don't wear out the starter doing it. In both cases the engine is RUNNING.

 

[gummycarbs]

1) Is this a NEW power steering pump, or a rebuilt one?

2) What method did you use to pull the gear?

The first thing I would do is order a rebuild kit and rebuild your original. Order a new Woodruff key and bearing at the same time. You've already done the hard part: pulling the gear.

 

[Tools R Us]

I think that's what I said except I don't wear out the starter doing it.

Yep, the starter is only good for what, 100,000 activations? So, when the Cruiser is in the drive and you want it in the garage, you push it to save the activation? If the starter is so clapped that a couple of starts are going to kill it, would rather find that at home than on the trail.

In both cases the engine is RUNNING.

The pump is very good at chopping big bubbles into tiny ones and mixing them into the fluid, making them much harder to remove, the faster/longer the pump turns, the better the effect. By turning the steering, the piston in the box will circulate the fluid, so no need for the pump, makes it easier/quicker. Just replacing the pump doesn't take much, when replacing the box, takes several reservoirs of fluid to fill the box.

In the end it doesn't matter, do what you like, given enough time, drive cycles, it will self bleed. Knowing the tricks can make it quicker.

 

[coonassjohn]

Yep, the starter is only good for what, 100,000 activations? So, when the Cruiser is in the drive and you want it in the garage, you push it to save the activation? If the starter is so clapped that a couple of starts are going to kill it, would rather find that at home than on the trail.



The pump is very good at chopping big bubbles into tiny ones and mixing them into the fluid, making them much harder to remove, the faster/longer the pump turns, the better the effect. By turning the steering, the piston in the box will circulate the fluid, so no need for the pump, makes it easier/quicker. Just replacing the pump doesn't take much, when replacing the box, takes several reservoirs of fluid to fill the box.

In the end it doesn't matter, do what you like, given enough time, drive cycles, it will self bleed. Knowing the tricks can make it quicker.

As long as they are the right tricks. BTW I was being sarcastic about the starter.

 

[former0321]

This is a new power steering pump. The old one is leaking, and yes i could rebuild it, but felt that after 21 years of service I would just replace it with a new one.
GummyCarbs........To pull the gear I used a three prong gear remover. Turned until tension, let it sit. Turned again and let it sit so the tension built up could just naturally work it of.....then as I was looking at it from about 6" away from my face to see if it had risen at all.....POW!! It came off.

 

[gummycarbs]

My rebuilt '94 pump is running great. I don't think these wear out (side from seals and the bearing) unless something exceptional happens to damage the vanes.

I'd closely inspect the gear for damage from the puller.

 

[Malleus]

The driven (ps) gear is softer than the timing gear. If you have any friction anywhere it's not supposed to be, you'll see it on the gear.

FWIW, the ps pump should make no noise, even when turned lock to lock. If it does, and the pump is new (and good), you have air in the fluid. I like the jack up the front end method myself. Do not open the reservor when the engine is running to check the fluid!

 

[former0321]

Once again....will double check everything one more time around. During the install and inspection of the PS Gear no wear, chips, anything crazy was found. It appeared in great condition. My biggest concerns were that it was too far in, or too far out, which would lead to further issues. Apparently this is not cause for concern. I am thinking I will just pull it one more time, Check the gear, check the torque on the nut, re-install, and bleed properly. Also need to make sure that is, in fact, where any noise is coming from.

 

[former0321]

Question.....Can I pull the power steering pump and run the engine? without any worries of damage? I want to be sure its the pump making the noise.