Power Steering Conversion Question

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Jun 13, 2010
Vestavia, AL
So I'm wrapping up my 4x4 Labs power steering conversion (frame plate and steering shaft kits) and something dawned on me when I was about to finish it up.

What keeps the steering wheel from getting pulled back toward you when driving (obviously it would be unintentional, but I could see this happening in off camber situations).

My 40 is a 6/'72, so I don't have the bearing with a set screw (which would keep it from getting pulled back).

Here's the whole set-up. I've got a lot going on...ignore the mess (I've got 3/4" clearance between the frame rail and the shaft if you're looking at that):


Here's a pic of the slip joint, you can see the firewall plate I made (I should've thought it out a little more. I could've prevented, or at least minimized this problem if I left it longer--as in left a 1/4" gap between the top u-joint assy and the steering shaft tube).


Here's how much you can pull the steering wheel back.


(I'm also in the process of restoring the steering wheel. POR-15 epoxy putty is the bomb. I'll post some pics when I finish that...)

The only thing keeping it from coming back further is the u-joint assy contacting the firewall. Fortunately you can't pull it back enough to have the shaft drop out of the slip joint, but it would bind enough to where you can't steering in certain situations.

So, I guess I've got a few options:
1) Don't pull back on the steering wheel-- this is a lame fix...
2) Put some kind of spacer (I already toyed with the idea of a nylon spacer. I'd be limited to removing the steering shaft in one direction though)-- I'm not in love with this idea.
3) Get some kind of bearing with an extended shoulder with a set screw that would limit the steering shaft from being moved longitudinally-- probably a better fix

Any other suggestions? Overall, I really like this kit. It's not collapsible, but then again I fly a plane that doesn't know if it's a helicopter or twin engine turboprop---I'll take my chances.

What say the masses?
Grainger has the same thing with 2 halves that bolt together. May work. Look up 3/4 shaft collar.
That's a great option. I can easily slip that on as nothing is welded together. I'd probably put a teflon bushing anywhere contact could occur to prevent binding...
Here's the solution I came up with:

3/4" ID nylon washers (lubed with moly B) followed by a 3/4" shaft collar.




That bolt fits into a 3/8" bore I drilled. It really was just for alignment before the weld, but I think I'll leave it...

Smooth as velvet w/ no slop. An added benefit is that there's a little bit of drag, making it not feel so light. Everything can be removed with one bolt down at the gearbox and sliding the shaft into the slip joint. The steering shaft itself will have to slide out through the engine bay, but it clears just fine (I checked before welding). The only welded piece is the upper u-joint assy, which I welded just to keep the slop out of the steering shaft. It's nice and tight (hold yer comments boys). Anyways, hopefully you guys will benefit something from this...

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