Power Braking to get unstuck, how well has it worked for you?

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hjdca

1988 FJ62
Joined
Apr 29, 2010
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9
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134
Hello Mudders, With my FJ62, auto tranny, and open diffs, I was wondering how well "power braking" works to shift torque from a wheel with no traction to a wheel with traction. With this technique, it seems the auto tranny would have an advantage over the FJ60 stick... Have you found this to be the case? How well does it work? ie. maybe powerbraking and turning the wheels at the same time to shift the torque? etc... Personally, I have never been stuck with my FJ62, so, I never had the chance to try it, but, it seems like it should work.. Any experiences out there? :steer:
 
Hmmm, Power braking eh. I am not sure that anything can help open diffs when you are truly stuck , you will need to be locked.

As far as stepping on the brakes to try to direct power to the wheel that is not stuck, I have done it - but with little success and that was with using the emergency brake and the brake pedal and I have a 60 so you gotta work the clutch, I am not sure why an auto tranny would be any help in this situation - except for the ease of braking and accelerating at the same time.

As far as turning the wheels at the same time or rocking the steering wheel to move the front wheels to get unstuck I would use caution here, many a birfield has been snapped with overzealous cranking of the steering wheel.
 
Hmmm, Power braking eh. I am not sure that anything can help open diffs when you are truly stuck , you will need to be locked.

As far as stepping on the brakes to try to direct power to the wheel that is not stuck, I have done it - but with little success and that was with using the emergency brake and the brake pedal and I have a 60 so you gotta work the clutch, I am not sure why an auto tranny would be any help in this situation - except for the ease of braking and accelerating at the same time.

As far as turning the wheels at the same time or rocking the steering wheel to move the front wheels to get unstuck I would use caution here, many a birfield has been snapped with overzealous cranking of the steering wheel.

Yeah, I meant locked up, in 4Lo, but, stock diffs, no lockers... then braking while still hitting the accelerator, ie. both feet pressing the pedals on an auto tranny.
Say, you get stuck, and the front right tire is spinning and the rear left tire is spinning, but, there is traction on the tires that are not spinning.. By putting your left foot on the brake while still accelerating, this is easy with an auto tranny, that puts friction on both tires, hopefully engaging the front left tire and rear right tire and getting you out of mess because those tires have traction..

Personally, I have had luck turning the front wheels back and forth on a sand hill, just when digging in, and the LC moves the front torque around and pulls me up the hill instead of digging in. You also get a new line, so, that also helps on a sand hill...
 
I've done that before. It helped. Now I have a Lockright :)
 
With the long wheelbase of a 60-series, it's hard to beat an Aussie locker. $250ish, doesn't require gear setup to install, and not too much risk of breaking axle shafts with less than, say, 35" tires on the stock cruiser axles.
 
I used to use it all the time (e-brake) in my 1wd 'glass buggy. We called steering brakes of any sort "poor man's posi", but going to a dedicated limited slip or locking diff is the better long term plan.
 
I've done it with the parking brake on my 60. I can't imagine it would be of much use if you're really dug in, but it does help when you're on a slick surface and keep spinning one rear tire.
 

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