Potentially Damaged/Neglected LC 100 Purchase for Mega Cheap -- Worth the Risk? (1 Viewer)

[hoonthatsc]

Hey guys,

Apologies if this isn't the correct place to post this.

Longtime LC fan here, never owner--but that may change soon. A close friend of mine's mother is gearing up to sell her one-owner 2000 LC bought new by her late husband, and I've got first dibs--IT IS VERY LIKELY THIS CAN BE HAD FOR ~$3500. Here's what I know:

According to friend, "just under" 200k miles, lived its entire life in a non-salt, non-snowy state

Needs new radiator -- current one leaks

Needs new alternator, apparently original is shot

Hasn't moved in 2 years on account of her not wanting to fix the issues.

Interior leather has some issues

I have two photos -- the one provided here shows some mild-ish body damage on the right rear side -- she claims it was a parking lot hit and run a while before it was parked.

I'm going to look at it later this month in person, and I'm going to read, watch, and digest all the buyers guides and "things to look for" posts and videos, but I want to get real feedback from you experts, especially since I live 2,000 miles from where it is located. I'm driving home for a family birthday, and the timing just works out perfectly.

That ~$3500 price is really, really tempting. I don't believe it's not a too-good-to-be-true price either, since I'm almost positive she regards it as just an old Toyota SUV, and who the hell wants one of those?

Here's what I'm concerned about:

Based on the pic above, can anyone ascertain if this purported hit-and-run could be significant enough to potentially damage the 4x4 drivetrain?

I won't have the chance to test drive/start it on account of the alternator issues before I make the decision, so I won't know any outlying powertrain issues other than the alternator/leaking radiator. She claims it was maintained reasonably well before it was parked and she relegated her GX to daily driving duties, but who knows what that means -- according to her son (my friend), he's skeptical.

So, for that price, should I just risk it and tow it back to my family home 4 hrs away after a visual inspection? This is a run-and-gun scenario -- I wont be back to my family home until COVID clears out--I'll be 2,000 miles away soon after I tow it back to the family home--and since it's non-op, I cant get it into a shop for pre-purchase inspection.

Regardless, thank you for taking the time to read this!

 

[Ayune]

Get the VIN, get all the info/history you can from her or otherwise.

Radiator is easy. Alternator could just be brushes.

 

[nukegoat]

It'll run. Risk it.

 

[MJK]

I think you can learn an awful lot about it right where it sits.

• I'd bring/borrow a battery, top up the radiator, and make sure it goes around the block before making any decisions.
• Bring a flashlight and poke around. Rust? Tire age? Bushing/brake conditions? Leaks/puddles?
• Scan for codes. Check all the switch gear and A/C.

Then, run some numbers. $3500 is very cheap but what else do you need/want to add to that?

• I'd figure $1k minimum for a DIY alternator, radiator, timing/serp belts, heater Ts and new fluids.
• What else? Tires? Steering rack? Brakes? Bushings? A/C? Transport home? Shop time?
• Is it OK as a scruffy trail rig, or are we talking interior and body work too

You get the idea. Make your list and act accordingly

 

[AlpineAccess]

Bring $3k. You're not getting a great deal, you're taking it off their hands and are willing to put in a lot of effort to get it driveable.

Rear quarter crease looks like the worst of it.

 

[maxamillion2345]

Seems decent. I’d go for it. I bought my 99 with 270k and needing some love for 3700. No ragrets.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Do it. But be prepared to dump some coin into it to overcome the neglected maintenance.

 

[LX4FUN]

Start at $1000 and take it from there! You can’t go down once you say $3500. Better to start low and go up from there!

 

[vipergrhd]

If you don't want it let me know i can be there in 24 hours.
Is it in the L.A county area? More pics would be nice with under hood and under carriage. Just saw the 2K miles away from you.

 

[ClassyJalopy]

$3500 for a neglected truck that has sat for 2 years is a decent price not a smoking deal, as you surmised already. These trucks can be surprisingly expensive to baseline if you are anal about your rides. Getting the VIN and checking maintenance history is really necessary to see if the timing belt is not due (or even overdue) which costs $1200 and the brake booster will hold up and not require another $2500 to replace.

Here are a couple of scenarios to help you decide what it's worth to you:
1) If you want to just minimally fix it and drive it a couple of years before passing it on, I'd figure about $2500 to replace radiator and alternator, battery and tires and change oils and coolant.

2) If you want to keep it long term and restore it to its full form then I will set aside $6000 to $8000. It will include the timing belt, starter, brake booster, suspension and diff bushings refresh, more than likely new CVs, fuel pump (if not already done), spark plugs and coils etc. etc.

 

[brm98]

As mentioned you are assuming all the risk with the purchase. Also, 1K would be the bare min I would set aside for required repairs, not your "want to" list. There are lot of variables with a stagnate vehicle. Even though it's one of the most reliable cars EVAR it's still a machine that needs fluid run though it and regular maintenance to keep it going. All things I would take into account when putting money on the table.

Like above, i would start in the high 2's and cap it at 3K. 1K worth of required repairs and another 1K of routine maintenance/wish list items. A sorted LC for 5K seems decent.

 

[ramangain]

So, why is her son "skeptical"? That would immediately set off alarm bells for me, regardless of price or condition.

 

[OwnerCS]

My kind of deal providing the body and frame is near perfect, the interior is livable, and no engine or transmission problems. I replace everything rubber and CV related during a mid-life refresh (baseline) anyway.

It's like restoring an old house in a historic preservation neighborhood. Lots of fun and $$$ in the process, but when you are done, you are in a place that holds its value.

 

[Exiled]

If the interior isn't completely roached and the rust is minimal, I would definitely take a stab at it for $3.5K. There are now enough 100s being parted out that you can probably source a lot of the damaged interior parts, and with the resources on this forum and a solid $5K, you can get a pretty decent truck and if it doesn't end up meeting your expectations, you won't lose money selling it (lots of crappy 100s out there selling for around $10K).

 

[Pucker5]

@hoonthatsc did you pull the trigger on the vehicle. Upsight was that it may likely be rust free. The rear passenger door trim and rear bumper need replacing in addition to that rear quarter panel needing love.

either way, $3500 Isn’t an amazing deal since you gotta go 2k
To get it and 2k Back. Maybe you could offer 2k and cite that you have to spend likely 1500-2000 bare minimum to drive it back. You could get the alt, radiator, battery and fluids corrected for the maiden trip

 

[graveling]

I just purchased a fixer upper 99 for 2500. 160k miles and I know the original owner. My 00 Tundra has 276k miles and I do a lot of long drives. I look at it as getting 5 years our of the vehicle, and given it's the same 4.7 as in the Tundra, it should last 300+. The big downside of the car is rust, but upon close inspection, most of the rust was where the front fenders meet the running board / attach near the bottom (train wreck). I can fix everything myself, which makes a huge difference. So far, I've got around 1500 into it. Aftermarket front fenders (painting myself), new timing belt kit and new alternator and power steering pump since I was in the neighborhood. Also POR 15 the frame and Fluid Filmed the inside of the frame. The prior owner just spent way too much IMO on new brakes / lines / booster, which is what sealed the deal for me. I've got other gremlins to battle (water on floor drivers side) but all in all happy for the beater. That said, I wouldn't recommend any of this to someone who couldn't DIY. You would spend WAY more than the car is worth.