Post your wheeling damage pics (16 Viewers)

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I might just fab something up. I tow a lot, even between wheelin' (i.e. moved the camper from Breckenridge to Moab to the Grand Canyon this summer), so any remove/reinstall in between will result in me being lazy and skipping it

It's only two bolts, after I remove it I put the bolts back into the retained bracket so I will have them when needed.
 
Em popped the bumper out a bit and slapped some wax on it real quick, damn these bumpers are resilient:) We just need a new clip for the parking sensor and we're all good and ready to wheel again:D

I recommend the cheap bastard approach to this problem. Push the parking sensor button and disable them. I haven't used mine since I bought the truck. :)
 
I recommend the cheap bastard approach to this problem. Push the parking sensor button and disable them. I haven't used mine since I bought the truck. :)
I hear ya on that, Em usually drives the rig during the week and she likes the sensors so she doesn't accidently drive over someone's car in the parking lot:)
 
I never hooked mine back up once the bumpers went on. They just make me nervous anyway
 
I never hooked mine back up once the bumpers went on. They just make me nervous anyway

My parking sensors have been turned off since the first week of ownership... Beeping drove me nuts.
 
Any recommendations on replacement wheel locks? Some better than others? I know there are many options, but I truly value all the expertise/experience from the Mud community

Yes. Get rid of them. :hillbilly:

I've been nearly stranded because of failed wheel locks on my 100 series...and when they failed again on my 200...they went directly in the trash. Rock Warrior wheels are somewhat less likely to be stolen as they require a spline adapter most folks don't have handy...but frankly, I'd rather deal with stolen wheels than a flat I can't remove due to weak wheels locks!
 
Spline drive or wheel lock, the standard trick is to hammer a 12-point socket onto the lug. Tow truck operators will do this if you're stranded and don't have a key for the wheel locks. If a thief wants your wheels, he's gonna take them. Keep your truck insured and if someone steals all your wheels look at it as an opportunity to get new tires :)
 
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Any recommendations on replacement wheel locks? Some better than others? I know there are many options, but I truly value all the expertise/experience from the Mud community

You can have mine if you want them. Took them off the day I got the truck home. Worthless nuisance.
 
Does urban 'wheeling' damage count? Traveling north on I-25 today and a black F-250 lost a foot-long 3" diameter steel pipe. Unavoidable @ 75 mph and my ARB skids did their job. Entered somewhat centered / driver's side and exited around trailer wiring harness in a diagonal path. Also nicked the PS RLCA bolt but my posting is only limited to 5 photo attachments...

Front Skid 2.jpg


Front skid.jpg


Trans skid.jpg


trans skid 2.jpg


Gas Tank OEM skid.jpg
 
PS RLCA bolt caught some steel as well

RLCA Bolt PS.jpg
 
Front bumper took some damage on a water crossing over the weekend. Popped that tupperware back as best I could the next day. :)
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Lol, the bottom pic was after using a heat gun and some persuasion to pop it back out. Maybe it will come more back into its normal shape after sitting in the sun, but a metal bumper is on my to-do list so no worries.
 
As some of you guys know, I love to test stuff. I think it is because I don’t like to argue, I just want to “know.”

I love rocky, tight, technical trails that generally turn most people away. So I’ve always had steel or stainless steel skid plates. And I’ve heard the aluminum skid argument, but how can I give real feedback if I’ve never tested right?

So... I had my front skid made of 1/4” aluminum, just to see what would happen. Now I’ve had aluminum plates on long travel control arms in the past, but that was fully supported. This is my first personal test of a stand-alone aluminum product.

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So that was one hit, just pulled up to a rock that might clear? Might not? I don’t know let’s see. Going down around a 30° degree trail. Pretty much on the lighter side of scrapes if you ask me.

Does this bother me? No, but I could see how the for someone that gets in the rocks even half the time that aluminum is just going to keep galling (peeling) away. Aluminum can definetly take serious hits from earth, downed trees, things like that. But rocks just cause to much friction.
 
As some of you guys know, I love to test stuff. I think it is because I don’t like to argue, I just want to “know.”

I love rocky, tight, technical trails that generally turn most people away. So I’ve always had steel or stainless steel skid plates. And I’ve heard the aluminum skid argument, but how can I give real feedback if I’ve never tested right?

So... I had my front skid made of 1/4” aluminum, just to see what would happen. Now I’ve had aluminum plates on long travel control arms in the past, but that was fully supported. This is my first personal test of a stand-alone aluminum product.

View attachment 1649379
So that was one hit, just pulled up to a rock that might clear? Might not? I don’t know let’s see. Going down around a 30° degree trail. Pretty much on the lighter side of scrapes if you ask me.

Does this bother me? No, but I could see how the for someone that gets in the rocks even half the time that aluminum is just going to keep galling (peeling) away. Aluminum can definetly take serious hits from earth, downed trees, things like that. But rocks just cause to much friction.
I had all aluminum skid plates on my Tundra. The front skid lasted exactly one trip and I ended up getting a steel replacement for the front. That set up has worked out pretty well for me. I just went with the ARB for the LC. If they prove to be insufficient, I'll explore other options.
 

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