Post Sandblast & Epoxy Rust (1 Viewer)

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I had the tub and parts from my FJ40 sandblasted & epoxy primered last year. Body has sat since and it is now full of rust, some places more than others. Looks like blaster shop just splashed the primer on vs. spraying...

So now that I want to start working on the body but do not want to spend the money for another sandblast, what is the best way to remove rust? wire brush to bare metal or will Ospho work for this? I have some eastwood epoxy primer to coat the body?

thank you in advance,
ML
 
I just hit my tub with 80 grit sandpaper and red scotchbrite pads. There were some areas that needed some EXTRA elbow grease to knock the surface rust off, once I cleaned up after the sanding I washed all bare metal and areas that had surface rust with a wet rag with Metal Blast from Rust Bullet.
 
Thanks rkymtnFF,

Did you go down to bare metal on the whole truck or just parts? I will order the Rust Bullet stuff.

ML
 
Thanks rkymtnFF,

Did you go down to bare metal on the whole truck or just parts? I will order the Rust Bullet stuff.

ML

I had mine blasted to bare metal and shot with PPG epoxy primer. There were some spots that the shop did not get a good coat on that started to flash with rust, I cut and patched the majority of my tub afterwards. I am prepping to shoot SPI epoxy primer on everything soon.
 
Thanks Slangy,

The problem is that I don't want to spend another $700 or so to reblast.

ML
 
Also depends on the sandblasting medium used. I tried a variety of different materials to sandblast with and now ten years later the areas i used slag grit are rusted.
Id opt to get the body re-blasted but use soda bi carb. Or recycled glass. But I think the soda gets out the rust better as its finer.
Por and rust bullet dont work. I por'd the entire body on my cruiser and the rust came back with a venegence.
 
That sucks Luis. I had mine covered under a tarp in the driveway and still got some rust in a couple of spots. I just wire wheeled it off and then used that Eastwoods epoxy primer.

I agree with you on the primer Stan put on. It was pretty thin.

Any pics?
 
Also depends on the sandblasting medium used. I tried a variety of different materials to sandblast with and now ten years later the areas i used slag grit are rusted.
Id opt to get the body re-blasted but use soda bi carb. Or recycled glass. But I think the soda gets out the rust better as its finer.
Por and rust bullet dont work. I por'd the entire body on my cruiser and the rust came back with a venegence.


There's nothing wrong with slag abrasive in most applications and there's no way soda will outperform slag for rust removal under an equivalent comparison. It's quite possible that you didn't remove the existing rust or you left too much of a surface profile with the slag grit you used. Either situation can result in poor coatings performance.
 
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You need to prime it within 4 hours of blasting and you need to blast only when the outside temp is at LEAST 5°F MORE than dewpoint.

The first coat of whatever you put on is the MOST important when painting over a blasted surface. Using the slag will give a deeper cut profile and you will also have deeper valleys. You will use MORE paint to fill it in. Using glass bead, walnut shells, or soda blast will give a smaller blast profile, and you will get better coverage on your paint, and it will give an overall smoother paint finish.

Since you are going to this level, you need to re-blast. Prime with the best primer you can afford and designed for whatever top coat you plan on applying.

When I see cars/trucks that have been blasted, I always cringe at the thought about what comes next and if someone will just use a rattle can primer to "get by". A year later it's rusty and you have to spend money again to do it "right".

Good Luck!
 
You need to prime it within 4 hours of blasting and you need to blast only when the outside temp is at LEAST 5°F MORE than dewpoint.

The first coat of whatever you put on is the MOST important when painting over a blasted surface. Using the slag will give a deeper cut profile and you will also have deeper valleys. You will use MORE paint to fill it in. Using glass bead, walnut shells, or soda blast will give a smaller blast profile, and you will get better coverage on your paint, and it will give an overall smoother paint finish.

Since you are going to this level, you need to re-blast. Prime with the best primer you can afford and designed for whatever top coat you plan on applying.

When I see cars/trucks that have been blasted, I always cringe at the thought about what comes next and if someone will just use a rattle can primer to "get by". A year later it's rusty and you have to spend money again to do it "right".

Good Luck!

Sage advice.
 
That sucks Luis. I had mine covered under a tarp in the driveway and still got some rust in a couple of spots. I just wire wheeled it off and then used that Eastwoods epoxy primer.

I agree with you on the primer Stan put on. It was pretty thin.

Any pics?


Unfortunately, the tarp probably exacerbated the problem, as it holds the moisture in and does not allow it to flash off. Some of the expensive car covers actually breathe and let moisture vapor out, but not in. Poly tarps reduce airflow, and hold condensation and moisture under them and make it all worse.
 

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