Post Ironman Lift Alignment Questions (1 Viewer)

[jhanley]

I'd like your expert opinions on why two tire shops were unable to align my 99' LX post 2" Ironman lift install. The steering is now ultra-vague, about an inch of play from side-to-side, like driving a 50s Buick. I'll be replacing front-end bushings soon, which I've heard helps steering feel.

Thanks in advance!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

No droop = no rake = s*** steering = s*** alignment

Lower the front end and all will be well.

 

[Skidoo]

No droop = no rake = s*** steering = s*** alignment

Lower the front end and all will be well.

What he said!

 

[jhanley]

No droop = no rake = s*** steering = s*** alignment

Lower the front end and all will be well.

Very good, though I don't want the truck to have too much rake, looks funky. Where would you suggest I get the torsion bars adjusted properly then aligned? Not many specialty 4-wheel shops near me. Thanks!

 

[ramangain]

Just get a 30mm socket from Amazon and adjust them yourself? Not even a 1/10 job

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Very good, though I don't want the truck to have too much rake, looks funky. Where would you suggest I get the torsion bars adjusted properly then aligned? Not many specialty 4-wheel shops near me. Thanks!

Need 1” rake, minimum. You can do it yourself if you have a floor jack, 30mm socket, and breaker bar...

 

[jhanley]

Just get a 30mm socket from Amazon and adjust them yourself? Not even a 1/10 job

ha yeah, I can adjust the torsion bars. I just want the alignment to be spot-on. How far down do my t-bars need adjusting?

 

[abuck99]

Edit for clarity and typo:

Your alignment results show you now have negative caster- you started with zero and then went backwards. You want positive caster- more caster helps steering return to center-more planted feel. You might ask them about why they let the vehicle out the door this way.

A lot of times the caster adjustment bolts are rusted/frozen to the upper control arm and cant be adjusted- this may be why you see negative numbers- they didn't get adjusted. For reference if still on OEM upper control arms, shoot for as much as they can adjust in- maybe you can get as much as +1.5 ~+1.8.

Your droop measurements should be no less than 50mm and closer to 70mm - lower front end to get more droop and your steering will feel less "darty"

 

[cjmoon]

Your alignment results show you now have negative caster- you started with zero and then went backwards. You want positive caster- more caster helps steering return to center-more planted feel.

if still on OEM upper control arms, as much as they can dial in- maybe you can get as much as +1.5 ~+1.8.

Your droop measurements should be no leas than 50mm and closer to 70mm - lower front end to get more droop and your

I second this plus more toe . Lifted larger tires need -toe +caster.

 

[Live to Ski]

Also, not every shop knows the alignment procedure. Best to take fsm alignment section with you to shop, ask 'em what procedure they use and compare.

Finally, personally watch them w procedure in hand.

Ask me how I know

 

[jhanley]

Adjusted the torsion bars down 1". Measurements are now 23" from center-hub to fender out back, and 22" up front. Steering is 75% better. A good alignment should seal the deal. Thanks for the help homies!

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Dropping to 21.0-21.5” in the front will move that 75% improvement to 100%.

 

[jhanley]

Dropping to 21.0-21.5” in the front will move that 75% improvement to 100%.

21.5" is too stink bug for me. That said, might try it if the the alignment doesn't help more.

 

[Skidoo]

Those that would give up safety to gain style deserve neither safety nor style.

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Those that would give up safety to gain style deserve neither safety nor style.

 

[jhanley]

Those that would give up safety to gain style deserve neither safety nor style.

Why not add something positive vs an insult?

 

[JunkCrzr89]

Why not add something positive vs an insult?

Eh, channeling Ben Franklin is rarely an insult!

 

[Skidoo]

Why not add something positive vs an insult?

Thought you might like a bastardized Franklin quote as you have a Plato quote.

But seriously too many here that fret about "stink bug" look and end up with unsafe rigs.
I have been behind 100s in Moab going up steep slickrock where they have almost no steering because they don't have enough droop.
Just because its easy to crank a t-bar doesn't mean any setting is safe.
It may be okay on the highway now but if you find yourself going up a steep offroad slope you may have very limited steering.

Positive fix - Want more height in the front - Aftermarket UCA, Extended travel shocks, drop diff = $$$$
If you go this route it will wear out your steering rack, tie rod ends and maybe CVs quicker. Been there, done that.

Edit: Also aftermarket UCA provide additional caster adjustment. The stock UCA on lifted rig does not have enough caster adjustment to meet alignment spec.