post 2003 nav delete how to. (3 Viewers)

[Ontherocks345]

I have a complete NAV swap (including Jerry's harness) for a 2005 LC for sale. I haven't added up my receipts yet so I don't have a price to post. I know someone just sold their's for what they are into it, but I don't know what that was. There was definitely some leg work in finding and putting everything together.

If you're interested send me a PM. I'm in Layton, UT. I'm fine to ship it or let you pick it up and I'll help you with the swap.

Brownfox, tough to see what happened to your truck (saw your post) and glad you're alright. Sending a PM.

 

[jhrrld]

Windshield leaking has pushed doing this up for me. Lastnight my hvac controls stopped working. Hopefully if i let it dry out it'll come back.

@brownfox still have all the pieces? I bet they will work in my 06 produced in 05.

 

[brownfox]

They are sold.

 

[jhrrld]

okay so looks like I'm SOL getting this kit together now so who want to sell me what they removed that mine is now fried?

Here are my symptoms: GPS works, none of the buttons work, HVAC blows the temp that was set, just like auto: cannot change, buttons not illuminated, no outside temp, hvac temp, clock. Radio functions just fine as well as steering wheel controls.

Can I be so lucky that it's a blown fuse?

 

[LostAussie]

okay so looks like I'm SOL getting this kit together now so who want to sell me what they removed that mine is now fried?

Here are my symptoms: GPS works, none of the buttons work, HVAC blows the temp that was set, just like auto: cannot change, buttons not illuminated, no outside temp, hvac temp, clock. Radio functions just fine as well as steering wheel controls.

Can I be so lucky that it's a blown fuse?

I have a lot of parts for nav delete kits. I'll go through it this weekend and post what I have. I also have a factory nav but I think its dead. I'll check it out as well.

 

[LostAussie]

Well a big shout out to brownfox. He ended up not needing his nav delete kit anymore. He offered it for sale and I purchased it with a very simple and straight-up deal. Just like it should be. If you need to deal with him he is great. The kit came exactly as he described and it's in and running.

I have all the parts for a nav delete kit except for the upper computer and holder. I'll be out of town for a couple of weeks but message me if you are interested in anything. I don't have an extra jerryb's harness either.

 

[kgrove]

I'm just starting (finally) to tear parts of my truck apart to do this and came up with a couple questions already:

1) My 2007 (and I know my previous 2006 did as well) has an integrated microphone for hands free phone calls, though I have to admit I have no idea where the microphone is located. Has anyone figured out how to use the existing microphone with a new head unit? The alternative is to use the microphone that came with the new unit... not sure which would have better sound quality.

2) does anyone have any photos of what they did under the passenger seat and how they connected the new audio unit to the existing speaker wiring setup? Or how they mounted an amplifier in the same place as the factory amp and nav DVD player?

 

[Njck22]

I'm just starting (finally) to tear parts of my truck apart to do this and came up with a couple questions already:

The factory microphone is in the overhead console where the sunglasses are. From what I remeber, that microphone runs through its own little amplifier up there and I had no idea if the signal going to the factory nav system was digital, or the sensitivity. I also didn’t want to splice anything. So I pulled the upper console, moved the factory mic over to the side, and put the mic that came with my headunit in its spot over the little grille. Sounds great up there, and most mics are negligible in quality, especially sense you’ll just be making cell calls.

In order to interface with the factory speaker wires, there are some complications:

the left front drivers speaker wires are not in the same under-seat connector as the others.
You can avoid dealing with this by doing a new speaker wire run to that or all doors

FR,RL,RR, and sub wires are in connector s6 which goes to the factory amp. See pic:
But the FL Wires are in connector N2, which goes to the navigation ecu

1. Cut and splice into the wires that come from the body harness.
2. Buy the metra harness that allows you to do the above without cutting, except for one coming from the nav ecu connector. 70-8116

 

[Njck22]

 

[kgrove]

In order to interface with the factory speaker wires, there are some complications:

the left front drivers speaker wires are not in the same under-seat connector as the others.
You can avoid dealing with this by doing a new speaker wire run to that or all doors

FR,RL,RR, and sub wires are in connector s6 which goes to the factory amp. See pic:
But the FL Wires are in connector N2, which goes to the navigation ecu



View attachment 2150672View attachment 2150673

1. Cut and splice into the wires that come from the body harness.
2. Buy the metra harness that allows you to do the above without cutting, except for one coming from the nav ecu connector. 70-8116

Clarifying question: Does the factory amp output directly to all 4 speakers + sub and combines inputs from the radio and nav system for the FL speaker? Or does the FL speaker has it's own amp mechanism? I'm wondering there is a third option where I use RCA plugs to get sound from the new head unit to the new amp and then get a harness to connect the new amp to the existing connecter plugged into the factory amp.

 

[Njck22]

I'm sure you can kinda get it from the picture above, but the amp does do all 4 speakers, and then send the fl to the nav ecu which cuts it off or fades it to send voice navigation. hence why the need to splice. the metra harness I mentioned will work for 3 of your speakers ( and subwoofer wires)

 

[kgrove]

View attachment 2151291

Thanks. This helps me understand why you recommended that.

I'm trying to figure out how that Metra harness (70-8116) you mentioned works. The Amazon.com description suggests it's about 12' long and designed to go from the back of the new head unit directly to the wiring harness under the passenger seat. In my case, I assume I'd cut the harness so I could just use the end adaptor and wire those directly into the new amplifier? Except for the LF speaker of course where I'd run it directly from the amplifier to the speaker.

 

[Njck22]

You got it. Save that extra wire, its got all kinds of different colors and stripes and its all copper.

 

[kgrove]

The factory microphone is in the overhead console where the sunglasses are. From what I remeber, that microphone runs through its own little amplifier up there and I had no idea if the signal going to the factory nav system was digital, or the sensitivity. I also didn’t want to splice anything. So I pulled the upper console, moved the factory mic over to the side, and put the mic that came with my headunit in its spot over the little grille. Sounds great up there, and most mics are negligible in quality, especially sense you’ll just be making cell calls.

Great info.

I'm trying the same thing... Here's a picture of mine installed. For anyone else, the perspective is bad but that's the overhead light assembly with the sunglass carrier mentioned earlier. I just pushed the OEM mic to the back for now in case things go bad and I have to reverse everything. The metal clips from the OEM mic fit perfectly around the ribs of the Alpine mic that came with my head unit. If everything tests out well and either the OEM mic rattles or I happen to be in that overhead thing anyway, I'll cut it out and remove some of the unused wiring. It was much easier getting the mic up there than I imagined. If the sound quality is lower than desired, I'll pop that fixture back off and first can try removing the thin black fabric covering the mic grill, and if that's still not enough, I can cut the grill to be a slightly larger hole and allow more sound to the mic. Hopefully this is fine... not hosting podcasts from my car, just basic phone calls.

 

[kgrove]

I'm sure it's probably either here in this thread or buried in my email, but I can't seem to find a schematic that identifies the reverse wire under the passenger seat for a 2007 LC with nav. What I've found so far is for different flavor trucks with slightly different wiring. Anyone have that?

I'm near done with the conversion... will report back some lessons learned afterwards. Spoiler alert: biggest lesson I've learned is that I should keep my day job and not go into the stereo installation business. It's coming together thanks to info and support from here and Jerry, but if I had more than two feet I would have shot those off too. All self inflicted wounds, which bodes well for any of you planning on embarking on this.

 

[Njck22]

Pin 27 in t21 (goes to the television ecu originally) or pin 14 in N2 (goes to nav ecu originally)


Wire color is red with a black stripe

 

[kgrove]

Got it, and thanks. I deferred connecting a new backup camera until I have more time so I can't test it yet, but I hooked up that wire so everything is ready to go by just connecting the RCA cable from the new camera to a plug waiting underneath the passenger seat.

New problem: Axxess ASWC-1 is driving me nuts. It's LED flashes are indicating it does not recognize the radio. I re-checked my wiring and redid the connections and hit the reset button - still nothing. Here's my wiring (ASWC-1 married to a 2007 LC if it matters):
- Axxess black wire to ground
- Axxess red wire to acc power #11 from R37
- Axxess green/orange wire to #7 from R36
- Axxess black/green wire to #8 fro R36

The only thing I can think of is my Alpine also called for acc power from #11 from R37, so I connected both the Axxess and head unit to #11-R37. The Alpine seems fine sharing the connection but the Axxess is having a hissy fit. Could that be the problem? Is there a nearby acc power wire from another connector that I could give to the Axxess so she'll do her job?

 

[jerryb]

no that acc shared grey one is fine.
I don't remember, are there dip switches on the axxess? You meant to write R38 for steering wheel control wires, correct?
they are not in R36----- lexus lx they letter them different. I might have sent you a wrong color version of the wiring.
here's the LC if crossed them up.
the ground in pin six (brown) and the black axxess wire need to be a chassis ground.
then your pin 7 and 8 to the respective axxess wires as in the instructions. It's probably easy to skip over grounding the brown wire in the R38c (#6)

Connect the Green/Orange wire of the ASWC-1 to the wire in Pin 7 of the vehicle’s radio harness R38c (white/red)
Connect the Black/Green wire of the ASWC-1 to the wire in Pin 8 of the vehicle’s radio harness R38c (black/red)

I think these get messed up all the time.
let me know.

 

[kgrove]

no that acc shared grey one is fine.
I don't remember, are there dip switches on the axxess? You meant to write R38 for steering wheel control wires, correct?
they are not in R36----- lexus lx they letter them different. I might have sent you a wrong color version of the wiring.
here's the LC if crossed them up.
the ground in pin six (brown) and the black axxess wire need to be a chassis ground.
then your pin 7 and 8 to the respective axxess wires as in the instructions. It's probably easy to skip over grounding the brown wire in the R38c (#6)

Connect the Green/Orange wire of the ASWC-1 to the wire in Pin 7 of the vehicle’s radio harness R38c (white/red)
Connect the Black/Green wire of the ASWC-1 to the wire in Pin 8 of the vehicle’s radio harness R38c (black/red)

I think these get messed up all the time.
let me know.
View attachment 2155428

That makes sense... yes, you are correct. And uh oh... I was going from a Lexus wiring diagram which said STMS1 and STMS2 were pins 7 and 8 of R36 where the 2007 LC version (I guess you also get color wiring diagrams when you pay for a Lexus... they don't tell you that when you negotiate your deal) says pins 7 and 8 of R38.

The ACC wire that I shared between the Axxess and the Alpine... I pulled that from #11 R37 based on the Lexus chart, but the LC chart has it as #11 R36. I can't tell from the diagram what R37 #11 even is, though the Alpine is working just fine so maybe I got lucky and it also is an ACC.

I should probably back up a step and make sure my connector lables are even right. Are the R36/37/38 connectors identically shaped between Lexus and LC and they just moved some wires around? Or did they also switch up connector shapes and labels? My 2007 LC diagram doesn't show the actual connectors for me to verify I'm grabbing the right one.


I don't think there are dip switches in the Axxess, though I have not opened the tiny compartment that has the micro USB port.

 

[jerryb]

quick search, this is what I read on redit for alpine, specifically ilx w650

Amazon product ASIN B0002J22BO