possible purchase. Info and education needed (1 Viewer)

[birdog009]

Greetings,

Although a hard core 40 series guy that have re done of few I have stumbled across an 80 series (i think it is going to be a 1995 give or take). It is sitting on a farm in a dry climate and has been for 5+ years. Said to have been overheating at the time it was parked and never looked at again. Said to not start although it will crank.

My question:

What are the top 5 issues with these I need to look at when purchasing ( I have never owned an 80 series) ? I am confident in my mechanical abilities so let me know what to check on these series of land cruisers. I have not had my hands on it yet but will this weekend

Thanks

 

[bhsdriller]

80 Series Newbie Guide - Slee Off Road

As soon as the excitement of the purchase starts to fade, the questions start popping up. What modifications can I make? What are those 4 bolts on the back

sleeoffroad.com

 

[60 toy ota]

As far as cooling goes...1fz head gaskets are somewhat more sensitive to a lack of cooling system maintenance as compared to the engines you're more familiar with. If that's the case I hope coolant hasn't been sitting on oiled surfaces for 5 years.

Also unlike the rest of the f series family the oil pump cannot be primed, unfortunately. I would pull all the plugs both to verify no coolant in the cylinders and to put a little oil on the walls.

The plastic radiator tanks and heater valve will be failed or on the verge of failing if original... they will start to brown as they age so it's an easy visual check

Rear heater lines may have sprung a leak

EDIT: the newby guide posted above is a great resource

 

[manofthewoods]

As far as cooling goes...1fz head gaskets are somewhat more sensitive to a lack of cooling system maintenance as compared to the engines you're more familiar with. If that's the case I hope coolant hasn't been sitting on oiled surfaces for 5 years.

Also unlike the rest of the f series family the oil pump cannot be primed, unfortunately. I would pull all the plugs both to verify no coolant in the cylinders and to put a little oil on the walls.

The plastic radiator tanks and heater valve will be failed or on the verge of failing if original... they will start to brown as they age so it's an easy visual check

Rear heater lines may have sprung a leak

EDIT: the newby guide posted above is a great resource

Above posts are excellent.
I'd go in expecting a interior that might be a bit unpleasant, cracked dash, etc.
Mechanically, I'd pull the engine w/transmission and TC - complete rebuild, etc.
Doin' it right won't be cheap.
Sorry

 

[JoeW]

Everybody's favorite @OTRAMM has a pretty good video for PPI too.

 

[Fj80oregon]

Seems like it will probably be cheep like under 2k would be a fair starting point. Chances are good motor will need rebuilt if water got into in when HG went. I would check dip stick for any water on it. Sounds like your competent so you can handle mechanical stuff(rebuild) your self if not walk away it s expensive to pay other people and there competency is always in question. Interior can be found but again expensive and will probable have to be shipped. Hopefully it had been sealed up and no pest intrusion.
1. Check that it cranks freely.
2. Check rust undercarriage can be a nightmare.
3. Interior damage.
that’s the top 3. Biggest thing is being honest with your self what your goals are and budget. Also the actual value of the vehicle. The market has slowed down but will always be there. Your gonna be spending thousands to get this thing up to par and then keep spending to make it yours!

 

[birdog009]

thanks for all the info thus far. Exactly what I was in need of. Again, a great forum with a wealth of knowledge and info

 

[Kernal]

All the above, plus if the overheating was due to a bad head gasket and then the vehicle was parked with coolant/water sitting in a cylinder and/or in the oil, then the engine will most likely need to be rebuilt/replaced. Only way to tell is to pull spark plugs and look for rust/corrosion/erosions on the cylinder walls. or better, pull the head. IMHO I would assume the engine is toast and you're buying a parts vehicle as it sits.

 

[Comet]

@1428Mike has always steered me in the right direction. Not a man crush but pretty darn close.

 

[powderpig]

First what I would do. Pull the spark plugs and run a bore scope into the bores(worth it really to borrow or buy if you do not have one). To see if any Coolant(coolant is more than just water) is on top of the pistons. if some coolant, then pull the engine and rebuild. To me, not worth pulling the head, my experience tell me that the rust will be too deep to just hone out. I would rather rebuild. The rust pitting into the cylinder wall from Coolant will be bad, after 5 years it will be deep. As well as the rust on the second ring. Top ring and oil control rings are Stainless, corrosion is different than a cast ring like the #2 ring. Cylinder wall will eat away more than the ring.
If no coolant, then more promise to getting it running more cost effective. It will still need a head gasket. If no coolant on pistons, Rotate the engine to look with the Bore scope to see the conditions of the cylinder walls. This will give you information on if you just need a Head gasket and Valve job, or if you need a full rebuild.
Anyhow, this is what I would do. With this barn /field find. I would also drain the fuel tank, that fuel will be rather bad. Typical of any old find in a field.
While the 1FZ can not do a prime of the oil like any of the F engines, it can prime with the starter. I typically remove the EFI fuse and pull the 12V power to the coil. Will do 20 sec rotating of the engine till I see oil pressure on the gauge. When I rebuild an engine, I usually use Lubriplate 105 engine assemble lube to assemble the engine as well as in the gears of the oil pump. I have done an Accumulator oil pump pressure at one time, but it was more hassle than it was worth.

 

[Kernal]

^^^Perfect^^^

Welcome back Robbie, we missed your knowledge and experience.

Anyone reading this (newer members) who don't know, PowderPig is a mechanic with extensive knowledge of the 1FZFE as well as anything else Land Cruiser.

 

[birdog009]

Thanks for the all the input

put eyes on it. It is a 91. Bone stock other than stereo

no rust high desert life. 182 k on odometer. No signs of mice etc. motor looks untouched EFI 3fe?

oil is black put no sludge, antifreeze or metal. Under filler cap is black. No froth or milkshake

tranny is bright red and full. Same with power steering fluid

rad is clean but could not see fluid

interior is what you would expect. Farm dirty but all there. Seats are cloth.
With drivers seat having some tears Jump seats still there And look new. There folded up. No rust under doors or in rear hatch area Like a typical 40 series. Has Sunroof. All Toyota glass

weather stripping and and window seal are clean and tight

original tires. Rubber is smoked

was dead of course and needs new or re charged battery

gotta see if we are close on a sale to dive into further but the first once over looks promising

Any advice or opinions on a 1991 ?

 

[bhsdriller]

Some guys love them but I would never buy an early model with 3fe

Maybe if it was mint inside and out but even then it would be hard