POR15 questions (1 Viewer)

BDSeff1fitty

1982 Toyota Pickup
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ok so just found out i am probly getting my frame sandblasted and all my new motor mounts welded in, and fixing my SOA mounts, the PO couldnt weld worth a dam, getting all that done for FREE.

i know ill need to prime it pretty quick, from what i can tell all i need is

2 quarts of the tie coat primer


and 2 quarts of



is that right? and do you spray it on or use a brush?
 
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prep

You need Metal Prep, Marine Clean, and POR 15

Cheaper subs can be to use opho for metal prep and TSP for cleaner--I got both at ACE hardware though I bought the POR stuff first and got that later when I ran out

the primer is only if you want to use paint over top the POR 15


however you may want to use their POR chassis coat as a top coat--it dries to satin black and is UV stable

POR 15 is not UV stable on its own and will discolor in areas that get light

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-seri...iew-use-impressions-por15-vs-rust-bullet.html
MC_MarineClean_tn.jpg
MR_MetalReady_tn.jpg
 
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POR-15 company HQ is right down the road from me. I have had lots of discussions with them about this that and the other things. Unless you are going to be exposing the frame to direct sunlight for months at a time you don't need to worry about it.

As far as applying the stuff, painting it on with a brush is going to frustrate the hell out of you if you are a perfectionist like me as it will tear any standard paint brush apart and leave the brush hairs in the finished paint. I have found that a HIGH quality paint brush from an art store will not do this and you can actually reuse them if you clean them often in the process with the POR-15 thinner. The thinner is either tolene or xylene I think. For a frame I suggest that you use a toilet brush to get the inside of the frame, use a primer spray gun for everything else.
 
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i used a quality brush and only lost about 3 bristles:meh: the finish came out so nice with the por15 was a shame to put that crap top coat over it
 

BDSeff1fitty

1982 Toyota Pickup
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ok so if i am reading this right i need

marine clean
metal prep
chassis coat

so the chassis coat won't clog a spray gun if i use it. what do i do about getting the inside of the frame where its boxed in and you can't see.

the por15 website says to apply chassis coat on top of the rust preventive paint. any cheaper websites to purchase their products from?
 
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ok so if i am reading this right i need

marine clean
metal prep
chassis coat

so the chassis coat won't clog a spray gun if i use it. what do i do about getting the inside of the frame where its boxed in and you can't see.
the por15 website says to apply chassis coat on top of the rust preventive paint. any cheaper websites to purchase their products from?
No, you left out the POR15! I think the poster who mentioned the Chassis Coat Black meant to use that as the top coat over the POR15. But the guy who lives near POR said that you wouldn't need it for the frame but based on my experience with it, I suspect the frame visible from the sides behind the wheels front and back will get enough uv to make the POR15 turn a dull chalky-looking black. It doesn't affect anything but the looks. I've never sprayed POR15 but I've brushed a lot on and it lays down real nice so brush marks are virtually invisibly. You do have to watch out for runs though as it runs real easy. Two thin coats is the way to go. And be sure to wear rubber gloves because they are NOT kidding when they say the stuff won't come off after it drys!
 

BDSeff1fitty

1982 Toyota Pickup
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ok. so

marine clean
metal prep
por 15
chassis coat

in that order. gonna order it w/ in the next few days. any cheaper websites?

i read 2 quarts of both por 15 and chassis coat should give me 2 coats each on the frame.

is there a pro/con of spraying vs. brushing it on?
 

40's rock

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Garrett,

I should have shown you my driveshafts and the frame on my 40. Brushed the stuff on and if flowed out perfect. I do have one spot on a drive shaft that is peeling, probably didn't prep well enough. I bought mine from an auto paint dealer (English color here in Dallas.) Check around, they may cut you as good a deal by the time you add shipping. Oh yes, x3 on the stuff does not come off skin, concrete or anything else...one more reason not to spray. Good Luck.

Perry
 

BDSeff1fitty

1982 Toyota Pickup
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ill try and go somewhere local and see how much it is. hopefully i can get the frame sandblasted this weekend if i get my motor mounts in and can get them mocked up in the frame and tack them in for the guy who is going to do the work for me.
 
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You are going to want to get the gallon of metal prep and marine clean. If you are going to top coat it is not like primer. You have to top coat it when the POR-15 is just tacky enough to put a finger print in it but not drag your finger. Depending on the humidity and the temperature, this could be as little at 10 minutes or as much as 40 minutes. This doesn't give you much time to do the complete frame so that is why I suggested that you spray it on. If the POR-15 does dry on you the top coat will never adhere right and just peal off. You will then need to sand it and put a coat of their top coat primer on it. Be careful not to get this stuff on anything else as it will ruin the paint, plastic, and other things.

Also preping is the key, make sure that you are very thorough in this step. After you apply the metal ready they suggest that you wash it down with water as this will cause it to form a light rust which the POR-15 is supposed to bond better too. Make sure that it is completely dry because water will stay in the knooks and crannies for days if you let it air dry. I suggest that you use a heat gun to dry it. I found that you can stop the metal ready and not produce any rust by wiping it down with acetone which is what I prefer just incase the POR-15 does fail you still have the zinc protecting the metal from the metal ready.

Look at other products too. Eastwood sells a nice rust encapsulator system that actually comes in rattle cans and makes life much easier. It doesn't need to be topcoated, but they are selling a complete frame kit for 129 plus they are having a 2 day sale right now. If I had it to do over again, I would have tried this stuff first as the other products that I have gotten from them are of better quality than the POR-15 stuff so far.

Keep this in mind, POR-15 is meant originally for industrial application. Eastwood is meant for car restoration. Big difference in the final quality and easy of use.

Whatever you choose I will state this again. All the work in painting any metal is in the prep!
 
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Also since you are going through the effort of getting it blasted, why not look around and see how much it would be to get the thing powder coated. It will be more cost wise but not that much. You have to ask yourself how much your time is worth and realize that the powder coating is going to be much tougher than any paint.
 

thecrazygreek

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Chiming in...

OK, I, like many others have done this before. POR is great stuff.

Here's the deal, if you are applying this to sand blasted metal, then you DO NOT have to worry about prep. All the prep work would be if you painting something old, greasy, and rusty. Bare clean steel, requires no prep. Just brush it on. Mine looks like new after 2+ years. And don't worry about a top coat for your frame. Maybe only the very front area thats exposed to light needs to be top coated.

Also, you can thin POR with Laquer Thinner which is way cheaper than POR's stuff...

I used this PREVAL spray bottle (and a brush) to apply my POR into the nooks and crannys. Amazon.com: Paint Sprayer: Automotive




Good Luck...
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BDSeff1fitty

1982 Toyota Pickup
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not doing powdercoating, can't repair if i chip it off.

my rig is being built for an offroad rig right now, so i need something that will last and take a beating.

so do i need marine clean and metal prep since im sandblasting?

and if im understanding this right, after spraying my 2nd coat of por15 rust preventive paint, i spray on the chassis coat while the chassis is still tacky. what about if i spray a 2nd coat? should i do 4 total coats (2 of por15 and 2 of chassis coat)

wanna make sure i do this right the first time
 
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so do i need marine clean and metal prep since im sandblasting?

and if im understanding this right, after spraying my 2nd coat of por15 rust preventive paint, i spray on the chassis coat while the chassis is still tacky. what about if i spray a 2nd coat? should i do 4 total coats (2 of por15 and 2 of chassis coat)

wanna make sure i do this right the first time
I am anal and a perfectionist so I would do the marine clean and the metal prep. Sand blasting will probably leave a rough enough surface for the POR-15 to bite to I suppose. If you are just getting it soda blasted, this won't break the metal's surface and will require you to do the metal ready. If you are getting it sand blasted and not soda blasted, make sure that you put on some rubber gloves and at least wipe it down with acetone before you put it on. Any grease or oil from handling the chasis after it is blasted will interfere with the bonding and wiping it down with acetone will clean this up.

And yes, 2 coats POR-15 and 2 coats Chassis black. If you are going to spray it they have instructions on how to thin it out. Make sure the humidity and temp are within the ranges of the paint. We get 100% humidity a lot here in Jersey so I can only apply the stuff when mother nature allows.
 
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I am not dogging the product yet until I fully understand what happened but I to had my frame blasted so i didnt actually need the por because there was no rust but it gets so hard I like it and thought what the heck it will never rust then........ First off it was a pain because then i had to top coat it for UV reasons (I knew that going in to the project) but I looked at my frame the other day that has been sitting in the weather and it is rusting through the frame in a few spots....... around the crossmembers etc. If you want to see pictures minus the rust view my build

https://forum.ih8mud.com/40-55-series-tech/227633-1976-fj40-buildup-chief-$*itty-pants-2.html
 
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I sprayed two coats of thinned por15 on my frame after sandblasting it. used xylene I think to thin it the place I got it gave me an starting idea and I sprayed as thick as would spray out of gun evenly. I top coated front frame horns and rear with paint. I have seen no rust in over two years of being stored in driveway but live out west
 

BDSeff1fitty

1982 Toyota Pickup
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ya, well i might as well spend the extra money and make sure i do it right the first time. the frame would be a PIA to try and repair later
 
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The reason the eastwood product has me curious is because you don't have to topcoat it and it comes in rattle cans so if you ever do chip or scratch it off, you just rattle can it back on.
 

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