POR-15 on front diff/axle housing (1 Viewer)

[sunrk]

Did the three-stage prep yesterday on the spare front diff/axle housing (plus with my box trailer I'm repairing) - manually wire brush and vacuum, then do the cleaner/degreaser step, then the metal prep step - and today have done the POR application. I used one single 1 quart tin for the diff/axle housing and floor plate of trailer, which leaves a bit in the tin to do a second coat on the swivel balls after first coat has hardened and I give them a very fine sand down to help the second coat adhere.

The stuff is expensive - POR-15 sells for well over $100 for the quart tin here. The Bill Hirsch equivalent is similar.

One important point - the previous POR distributor stopped selling genuine por cleaner/degreaser and metal prep and the substitute products don't really work. Gotta use the genuine full-strength products.

I'm def a fan of POR. When used properly (not just slapped straight over rusted steel) it's brilliant.

 

[gorbilax]

Do you have any pics? I've been considering doing this to my axles but I haven't been able to stomach the cost so far. I also keep seeing various references to it being somewhat poisonous. Not sure how overhyped that is. Were the vapors pretty strong when you applied it?

 

[sunrk]

Just snapped pics on my Samsung tableyero of it and the box trailer floor I just coated but my current flickr acct is locked as I'm at 1000 pics already. grrr argh

If the application is done properly the money is worth it. I did the floor of my lockable tool trailer with it (3 coats) about 3 yrs ago, and 11 yrs ago I did just the axle balls of an earlier 80 series front diff/axle housing (3 coats as well). The cleaner/degreaser and the metal prep chemicals need to used with good ventilation for sure esp the genuine POR branded ones.

With the POR itself, you have to be clean, use gloves and long-sleeves, etc. as it can't be removed from skin. Using the special POR solvent on skin is not a good idea but it's great for cleaning up brushes between dry-off periods if putting on multiple coats. Can use turps for cleanup.

Only other thing to be mindful of is that POR itself isn't full UV-stable so if colour is important it needs over-coating. otherwise stick with gloss black and enjoy.

 

[Racefiend]

With the POR itself, you have to be clean, use gloves and long-sleeves, etc. as it can't be removed from skin. Using the special POR solvent on skin is not a good idea but it's great for cleaning up brushes between dry-off periods if putting on multiple coats. Can use turps for cleanup.

I love POR 15, but yeah you don't want that stuff on your skin. Around 15-20 years ago, I was helping my buddy restore his BMW 2002. He wanted to por15 the body parts. I made a makeshift paint booth on the side of my house where he sprayed them with por15. I was in the garage, when I heard him swearing and screaming. The side door flies open and he yells for a towel. His head and the whole side of his face was covered in por15. He was spraying upwards when the cap on the spray gun popped off and dumped the entire contents on his head. It was a bastard to get off from his hair and face. He had to use the por15 solvent. It left his face red for a few days. At the time we got a good laugh out of it.

Now this may be totally unrelated, but about 10 years ago he got melanoma on his scalp. The doctors took care of it, but a few years ago they found the melanoma came back and he had stage 4 cancer. Unfortunately he didn't make it. Like I said it's anecdotal and there may be no causation, but be careful with that stuff. I'm extra careful when using it now.

 

[sunrk]

I love POR 15, but yeah you don't want that stuff on your skin.

Indeed. One of the key parts of the instructions says not to because it stays there until it comes off with natural wear on the skin. I use turps to get paint off my hands then immediately wash with soap/water but POR solvent is more nasty.

I have only used it by brush application for the jobs I've done.

 

[sunrk]

Ah the enemy of a POR-15 coated item - wind! Because POR is moisture cured if the wind comes up it blows masses of dust/dirt and that all gets stuck to the POR because it's curing slowly with the low humidity! Argh... However once it's cured I think the surface can be restored hopefully using some 600 or 1200 grit paper and polish.

I did the second coat on the axle balls early then up comes the wind and nothing I can do about protecting the freshly applied POR as anything I cover them with will just stick to the uncured paint. Starting to look like round sandpaper balls now. FFS! I've got caught out massively with this change in the weather.

Wind suddenly came up to 40 to 50 kph gusts ahead of a very wet weather system supposed to arrive tomorrow morning. Not having a shed/garage large enough to do vehicle work in means I have no weather protection for anything.