Poppys Petina (1 Viewer)

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Just got done with wiping on a matte clear coat from a company called www.Poppyspatina.com Being that my original idea of having my cruiser be Kryptek Nomad with Skull stencils in flat colors wasn't holding up to the suns UV rays. The rattle can paint would get super chalky and I didn't want to have to keep working on paint each year. Poppys patina has been around for a while now and lots of the hotrod guys who are going for the patina look had caught my eye. This product is everything I expected and now all the hours of work I've put in to the paint and stencils are protected.

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cruxarche

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That looks great! I was looking for a simple solution to stop the deterioration of the of the original green paint on my '93. The entire paint job is oxidized and the roof, fenders and hood all have the typical missing/fading patches of clear coat. The Poppy's website does not have much detail on prep for a novice, and they did not respond to email inquires for tech support. Did you sand/ scotch pad the entire paint job before applying the clear coat? If so, which pads/grid do you recommend? I sort of like exactly how the rig looks now, with the peeling clear coat, but I imaging if I use scotch pads it will remove all that white crusty peeling clear coat. I can live with that, but just wondering how all this goes.

There are small rust dots forming in the areas where the paint is too far gone. I would like to keep those from spreading as well. Any thoughts appreciated.
 
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If you buy poppys kit it comes with everything you will need to prep. Scuffing pads to help remove any loose paint and a decreasing agent with rags to help the clear or Matte finish to stick. It should also protect the rust from speading. Its Not going to be your typical paint job as far as looks go. You can spray it on or wipe it on. Of course you will get better results from spraying it on.
 
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If you buy poppys kit it comes with everything you will need to prep. Scuffing pads to help remove any loose paint and a decreasing agent with rags to help the clear or Matte finish to stick. It should also protect the rust from speading. Its Not going to be your typical paint job as far as looks go. You can spray it on or wipe it on. Of course you will get better results from spraying it on.
I have the exact questions as @cruxarche, so thanks for the follow up here. Three more questions: in the pics you’ve posted, you used the matte not the clear, correct? Like @cruxarche my clear coat is heavily oxidized/peeling, or in some places gone entirely, how do you think the prep/scuffing pads will affect the remaining clear coat? Any idea if it can be removed after applied (if I hate it) or should I assume I’m committed unless I want to do a full repaint? Thanks!

Paint on your rig looks sweet!
 

cruxarche

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@AZLANDO this is great. Who is going first? Is this sort of how your truck looks? I sort of like the faded look and would be fine if it got “locked in” as is. But I assume after sanding it may look totally different?

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Joined
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@AZLANDO this is great. Who is going first? Is this sort of how your truck looks? I sort of like the faded look and would be fine if it got “locked in” as is. But I assume after sanding it may look totally different?

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@cruxarche yup. Pretty damn similar. My hood is definitely more “patina’d” tho, practically down to the sheet metal in spots. But rest of the body is very similar. I like to look too, just don’t want it to look too much different. Maybe I’ll just start with the hood and make it the Guinea pig. 🤔

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cruxarche

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Yeah. Same color and similar condition. You are more adventurous than I. I was thinking of starting with a fender flare!! IF you do this please post up as many details has you have patience for. Too bad you are a state over, we could do it over beers.
 
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You definitely want to try and smooth out the peeling and cracked clear coat and blend it as smooth as you can if you want the best finish. The scuff pads that come with the kit could be effective enough for that. Little elbow grease where it needs it most.
 

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