poor returnability (1 Viewer)
- Thread starter vxlc80
- Start date
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Rusty steering wheel coupler?
do you have the printout from the alignment shop? what's it show for caster?
- Thread starter
- #4
2deg 29' left front and 2deg 32' right front i is stated that the adjustments are within specs
where can i find the steering wheel coupler?
What is your lift height?
- Thread starter
- #6
cranked .5" or 29" from bottom of oem rim to fender lip will it make a difference?
The best way to measure the lift height is from the axle/dust cap center straight up to the fender lip. This method eliminates wheel size from the equation.
Yes...as you get much above 22" from front hub center to fender on our 100-Series IFS you can experience not enough caster and other negative steering effects; more noticeable at highway type speeds.
Your toe-in is spot on right? Is the symptom the same whether or not you're coasting or accelerating? More pronounced at a speed range or not?
- Thread starter
- #8
symptom is the same coasting or accelerating toe and camber is right on specs
Was returnability acceptable before something was done or changed with the vehicle?
If alignment was not changed, and if steering feel/behavior changed for the worse,
then something else changed. Find out why.
Tires can have a big affect on steering feel, tracking (/pull to one side or not), returnability. Uneven tire wear, or even tire condition not visible, can affect tracking (/pulling, or how well the vehicle tracks straight and holds the road or not).
With all that said:
If everything is confirmed nominal, and you have ruled out tires, then the way you get the vehicle to track straight and exhibit good returnability is with more positive caster, with conventional suspension such as the 100.
Generally, if you drive mostly crowned roads, you want 1-2 degrees more caster on the right side vs. the left side. My LX has somewhere around +2 deg left, +3.5 deg right, IIRC. This was not the factory setting: It took several alignments by dealer (at my insistence) when I bought the vehicle to finally get it to track straight - it was pulling to the right on typical crowned roads, from the factory, and the problem was finally resolved when the dealer technician applied my suggested caster settings (above).
The vehicle caster can be set to a wide range, with widely-varying pull and tracking (/returnability) results, and still be "within spec". A good alignment technician knows this. The problem is that dialing in the steering tracking etc. can take multiple tweaks and road tests, but the technician is usually not paid extra for that extra time/work, so most technicians will try to just get it "within spec" and then try to convince the customer that the result is ok - even when it is not - so they can move on to the next (paying) job.
(The Real World)
If alignment was not changed, and if steering feel/behavior changed for the worse,
then something else changed. Find out why.
Tires can have a big affect on steering feel, tracking (/pull to one side or not), returnability. Uneven tire wear, or even tire condition not visible, can affect tracking (/pulling, or how well the vehicle tracks straight and holds the road or not).
With all that said:
If everything is confirmed nominal, and you have ruled out tires, then the way you get the vehicle to track straight and exhibit good returnability is with more positive caster, with conventional suspension such as the 100.
Generally, if you drive mostly crowned roads, you want 1-2 degrees more caster on the right side vs. the left side. My LX has somewhere around +2 deg left, +3.5 deg right, IIRC. This was not the factory setting: It took several alignments by dealer (at my insistence) when I bought the vehicle to finally get it to track straight - it was pulling to the right on typical crowned roads, from the factory, and the problem was finally resolved when the dealer technician applied my suggested caster settings (above).
The vehicle caster can be set to a wide range, with widely-varying pull and tracking (/returnability) results, and still be "within spec". A good alignment technician knows this. The problem is that dialing in the steering tracking etc. can take multiple tweaks and road tests, but the technician is usually not paid extra for that extra time/work, so most technicians will try to just get it "within spec" and then try to convince the customer that the result is ok - even when it is not - so they can move on to the next (paying) job.
(The Real World)
I messed around for a while after some front end work recently and could not get it right. I finally lowered the front end a 1/2" and it drove straight as an arrow. I am of the opinion when you get it close to factory and further tweaking has to be done seat of pants. Try lowering and raising the front with the Tbars a little at a time until you get it where you want it. Be sure to unload the tbars before you do it.
^ this
the cruiser likey a little rake. about 1/2"-3/4" unloaded is beuno.
edit: if you have to err with one side being ever so slighly lower, have it be the DS; she likes to rest on her left side. if she leans right even by 1/8" she'll pull on acceleration and act all funky over bumps.
the cruiser likey a little rake. about 1/2"-3/4" unloaded is beuno.
edit: if you have to err with one side being ever so slighly lower, have it be the DS; she likes to rest on her left side. if she leans right even by 1/8" she'll pull on acceleration and act all funky over bumps.
