Poll: Dune Biege or Cadet Blue?

Dune Biege or Cadet Blue?

  • Dune Biege

    Votes: 42 40.0%
  • Cadet Blue

    Votes: 63 60.0%

  • Total voters
    105
Joined
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I can can only guess on your second question. My guess is that Cadet Blue was a super rare color. According to the thread below, it was only used for a few years, and may not have even been a color available in the US... story goes that it was an experimental color to try and win a contract with the Australian navy. No idea if that's true or not.

I thought Cadet Blue was a current Tacoma color - I was apparently wrong on that. That explains why it's hard to formulate.
 
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ah, no that's a different color. I think you're referring to "cavalry blue"- a buddy if mine painted his Scout that color.
 
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Your paint job looks great. Any updates or are you still getting sidetracked by your Airstream?😆

Well... sort of. I had a major setback and I'm still a bit raw. I did all of the body work and paint on the remaining panels. They came out grat in general, but did have some orange peel. I finally thought I was done painting, but unfortunately during the wet sanding stage (sanding out the orange peel), I blew through the paint in a number of spots.

Normally not a big deal, but I ran out of blue paint from the same batch, and Wesco's attempts to mix the same paint with the same paint code results in kind of a poor match. The hood, doors, and hard top sides are adjacent to some part of the tub, which means respraying them with a newly mixed batch will not result in a good color match.

So... it's a gigantic kick in the nuts. I have to scuff sand the exterior sides of all panels, including the tub pictured in this thread, and respray it. So yeah, that's a few hundred hours of extra work I had not planned. It's pretty sad.
 
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I've upgraded my paint gun and made a number of other tweaks... and this time, before a drop of paint hits a panel, I'm going to do lots and lots of testing to get the orange peel down to the level where, god willing, I won't need to do any wet sanding at all. If I could change one thing, it's this... I should have been more patient practicing my gun settings and technique. I'm fine with a little orange peel- this thing isn't a hot rod show car. But I was getting too much in my past attempts.
 
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ok, one last thing. Sorry. These thread gets revived fairly often, so maybe this will help people who read it in the future. I'm a newbie painter- this is my first time doing it. One other thing I would change is I'd probably do a base coat / clear coat system instead. The Delfleet Essential Single Stage (ESSS) is tricky to use. I absolutely have to use the reducer to thin the paint. But you also have to put it down thicker than you would normally think in order for it to flow out (i.e., not get orange peel). Thinned paint plus heavy application puts you in the danger zone of runs. Also, the data sheet that comes with the paint recommends a pretty low air pressure for HVLP guns. I had to take it WAY higher than the 8-10 PSI they recommended (measured at the gun)- I needed to be at about 25 PSI to get good atomization, and I had to thin the paint with more than the recommended 10% reducer as well. But the best looking parts I painted (low orange peel) all also had bad runs in a few spots. I'm not an expert, but upon doing more research, I saw some other people online saying the same thing about this paint. So, I guess I'm concluding that this paint is probably better left to the pros.

I've also read that base coat/clear coat is more forgiving for newbies. You can put the base coat on in pretty thin coats and still get it to atomize and flow out well... and then you can just use a lot of coats of clear to give yourself a margin for error on wet sanding/cutting/buffing if you end up with a lot of orange peel.

It all would've been fine for me if I had just not gotten much orange peel in the first place though.

Anyway, for my re-spray job, I'm seriously considering switching to some kind of PPG base/clear but using the same color code. Still thinking it through- I have probably another 50 hours of scuff sanding left, during which I'll have plenty of time to ponder life. :)
 
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Ah man that’s rough. But when you finish it will be beautiful!
Mines currently all white (kinda boring) and I dream of painting it this blue. Some day…
 
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Ah man that’s rough. But when you finish it will be beautiful!
Mines currently all white (kinda boring) and I dream of painting it this blue. Some day…
My advice: if your current paint is fine, don't touch it. Repainting a car is a freaking ton of work (assuming you do it properly). Or sell your rig and buy one that is the color you like. haha.
 

jim land

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Well... sort of. I had a major setback and I'm still a bit raw. I did all of the body work and paint on the remaining panels. They came out grat in general, but did have some orange peel. I finally thought I was done painting, but unfortunately during the wet sanding stage (sanding out the orange peel), I blew through the paint in a number of spots.

Normally not a big deal, but I ran out of blue paint from the same batch, and Wesco's attempts to mix the same paint with the same paint code results in kind of a poor match. The hood, doors, and hard top sides are adjacent to some part of the tub, which means respraying them with a newly mixed batch will not result in a good color match.

So... it's a gigantic kick in the nuts. I have to scuff sand the exterior sides of all panels, including the tub pictured in this thread, and respray it. So yeah, that's a few hundred hours of extra work I had not planned. It's pretty sad.



This happen to me , the top and doors are no match with the tub (on sunny day) , i plan to repaint one day, but with some flattener , no buffing , more like an old paint (patina)

Screenshot_20220630_185851_com.android.gallery3d.jpg
 
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Yeah, the orange peel I was getting was way worse than an OEM job. I'm fine with some orange peel for sure. But mine damn near looked like an actual orange. Lol
 

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