Points problems (1 Viewer)

[fj40z]

‘69 with original F engine desmogged with a Weber 32/36 that ran good until I let it sit for a year and a half. Got it running a couple weeks ago and would idle good but as soon as throttle was applied it would stumble out. If you pumped the pedal repeatedly you could get it to rev out but as soon as steady pedal was applied it cuts out. Thinking it was a carb issue I pulled the carb and cleaned it, checked the diaphragm on the accelerator pump and it looked good but made no difference. Started thinking it may he points and condenser after searching on here. Pulled the dizzy cap and noticed the rotor tip was worn so I replaced it and the cap, made no difference. I replaced the condenser first and admittedly this is my first time messing with points so the different style of condenser through me off a little bit with some searching here I got it to fire it up, idled great but same stumbling under steady pedal. After more searching and reading I decide to jump into the points. Did everything step by step and feel fairly confident I have the points setup correctly but now I don’t have any fire at all. Turns over and over but never runs but after the key is turned off it stumbles and runs a little like it’s dieseling. I think my problem is in the connections of the condenser, coil and points. I feel like I have a cobbled up mess trying to make the newer style condenser work and may have it all way off. Any help is greatly appreciated.

 

[4Cruisers]

Where did you connect the blue wire on the condenser? That condenser is for the '68 and earlier distributors where it was mounted internal to the distributor. On the earlier distributors the blue wire screws to the breaker plate, at the location where the braided wire on your distributor attaches. Here's a photo of one of the earlier distributors:

Try securing the ring terminal on the blue wire under the screw that attaches the distributor cap clip, the one on the same side of the distributor.

 

[Dizzy]

What do you mean by cleaning the carb? Did you dip it?

 

[pbgbottle]

Sounded more like the carb was probably gummed up inside did you take it all apart when you cleaned it ?

 

[65swb45]

Your distributor is probably quite warn (a pun for @hyhpe ) and standard point gap setting is too wide for coil to saturate. Try a point gap of 0.010” and see what happens. If it fires, check dwell. If dwell is below 35 degrees, I recommend replacing the distributor.

 

[hyhpe]

Your distributor is probably quite warn (a pun for @hyhpe ) and standard point gap setting is too wide for coil to saturate. Try a point gap of 0.010” and see what happens. If it fires, check dwell. If dwell is below 35 degrees, I recommend replacing the distributor.

You so Phunny.

 

[bmoonhajjar]

Your distributor is probably quite warn (a pun for @hyhpe ) and standard point gap setting is too wide for coil to saturate. Try a point gap of 0.010” and see what happens. If it fires, check dwell. If dwell is below 35 degrees, I recommend replacing the distributor.

Hey, that was my joke.

 

[fj40z]

Where did you connect the blue wire on the condenser? That condenser is for the '68 and earlier distributors where it was mounted internal to the distributor. On the earlier distributors the blue wire screws to the breaker plate, at the location where the braided wire on your distributor attaches. Here's a photo of one of the earlier distributors:

View attachment 2294694

Try securing the ring terminal on the blue wire under the screw that attaches the distributor cap clip, the one on the same side of the distributor.

Thank you for that picture and input, it helped out immensely. I mounted up the condenser that way and it made no difference. I then narrowed the gap as @65swb45 mentioned and it immediately fired, idled decent but not smooth. As soon as I touched the gas it started stumbling and then faded out. I’ve tried several more times and cannot get any more spark out of it again. Could possibly be flooded but it always starts fairly easily despite poor performance while running. Really getting frustrated with trying to pinpoint what’s going on, thanks for all the input everyone.

@Dizzy and @pbgbottle I took the carb apart, flushed all orifices and jets with aerosol carb cleaner then dipped it in the can for about 20 minutes then flushed out with the aerosol carb cleaner again.

 

[Blue77FJ40]

If you can get a ultrasonic cleaner for the carb it will work wonders. I got mine at Harbor Freight for about $70. It's the same exact unit that Lymon sells for brass shell cleaning:

2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner

Amazing deals on this 2.5 Liter Ultrasonic Cleaner at Harbor Freight. Quality tools & low prices.

www.harborfreight.com

I used it on my Harley carb and had to keep changing the carb's position to get all areas cleaned, as the tank is smaller than the carb. You'd have to do the same thing for the '40 carb, but it will clean it. Wait till you watch the ports start spewing gunk. Best to use the heating element on the ultrasonic cleaner.

The only caveat with this cleaner is that you will initially have to apply sealant/rtv around the top rim of the tank to avoid water intrusion into the unit's insides. I've have mine about 6 years with no problems. I found the sealant tip on some review before I bought it.

 

[Dizzy]

I had a Weber rest for a year, and there was varnish from the gas turning to tar. It flaked off and seemed to not be soluble in gasoline. I tried a 32/36 on my 2F and it definitely needs tricking-out if you are going to get the idle anywhere close - it needed tricking out on my 2.4L in my pickup. However, you said that it worked before.

This one from HF actually worked for me, confirming that my new OEM distributor had the proper dwell angle, and that I was about 600 + rpm at idle, although it got bad reviews (I figure that the average consumer was a below average technician and the only reviewers are those who were frustrated, but I could be wrong). It could be a good gamble for your tuning, and, for checking battery voltage to the tenths or hundrenths, ect.

 

[fj40z]

Thought I would update this as I FINALLY figured out what was going on with the points. The lockdown screw only had a flat washer under it. The few times it would fire after adjusting the points it would idle great for a minute or so then slowly die down to the point it couldn’t have been idling more than 200 rpms. The vibration while running would loosen the screw and the gap would slowly close. Put a new lock washer on this evening, fired right up and ran MUCH better. Thanks for all the input!