Pneumatic Impact Wrenches (1 Viewer)

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So the wife wants to get me an Impact Wrench for X-mas. I'm always borrowing my neighbors and it is so useful. I have a Toyota Mechanic friend that swears by Ingersoll, but I have no idea what model to get or what to look for. I've been thinking about the Harbor Freight deal just to at least try out as I don't need it that often. Here's the specs.

Drive: 1/2'' square
Bolt capacity: 5/8''
Maximum torque: 250 ft. lbs.
Air requirements: 5 CFM @ 90 PSI
Maximum speed: 7000 RPM
Air inlet: 1/4'' NPT
Hose size: 3/8''
Weight: 7 lbs.
$14.99

Most of the "pricier" options tote greater torque values and such. Just don't know what is important to look for, what you can go without because of occasional use, and what do you have to have. Thanks
 
I have the high dollar Ingersol for when it is needed and the chinese chicago for throwing around and loaning to friends. Most of the time the raggedy throw down does the job just fine and as cheap as it is I wouldn't be out much if broken by a borrower.
 
You can have the best impact in the world but if you don't have enough air to run it it won't do you any good. so buy at you compressor capacity.

I wish I had more air, I only have continuous 90 psi, want 175 for breaking those bolts loose.

I do have the Ingersol with the intention of upgrading the compressor soon.
 
My compressor topps out at 200 on the dial...never taken it near that, but I think I've got enough. :flipoff2:

Which model Ingersoll does everyone use?
 
I've got decent compressor capacity, at cont. 135. However, I use a cheapo Northern Tool Impact. It works pretty well, be sure to use good, large air hose, I tried mine initially with that cheap yellow coiled stuff and it barely worked, upgraded to the good 1/2 stuff on a reel and now it cranks at least twice as well.
 
So I put them to the test last night.

Borrowed Snap-on, "Top-o-the-line" Husky from HD, and an IR T135 Ti from Sears.

Price ranges were Free-$99-$250, and had the compressor up to about 110 PSI

Not one of them could remove the strut bolts on the front of my wifes car. I had to get out the breaker bar and bounce my fat ass on it to get it to budge. I actually split my 1/2' 17 trying to get it off if that gives you any idea.

So I'm a bitg confused...the IR toted 700 ft/lbs of torque! Does that corelate exactly to what you would get on a torque wrench? Or is it different?

Anyway, at the same time that I don't need one THAT often, I want it to work for most every job I need it for. I had originally thought 700 lbs of torque would be overkill, guess not.
 
Read a little further, I bet it says 700 foot-pounds at a certain pressure and flow rate, and I bet you were not meeting one or both of those requirements.
 
You really need to read in each manufactures specifications as to the system requirements to meet the rated output of a certian pnuematic tool. There is not a "standard" that they all test by, each maker has thier own standard/test procedure, which only lends to vaugeness when trying to use these stats for descision making

I have a couple Mac tools/ Ingersol 1/2" impacts, and they have worked for years without any problem, and hooked up to a good air source, will break just about anything loose. I have not ever been impressed with the Snap-on impacts, they make a lot of noise and do not do anything, alot like all those street racing four cylinder noise makers. But it is possible that I had a couple new junk impacts too..who knows.

Breaking a socket...been there.

Should be using some heat..the flame wrench is your friend!

Good luck!

-Steve
 
Cruisin~

You would lose that bet. I read the manual, and I don't use the cute pig tail you were referring to earlier. Straight 1/2 inch line at 95 psi =600 ft/lbs, I had it up to 110 PSI and still nothing.

Poser~

Any more details or sites to read about those industry "STANDARDS". Next time might just try thinking outside the box and going BTU instead of PSI. Thanks
 
Well, I have 3 impact wrenches.

IR Thunder Gun
IR 231
and some fawked brand 3/8" model

The IR231 stays in the garage as the constant back up all the time. The 3/8" is only for tight areas and for working on low torque things so I can't goose it by accident (top real torque is about 70). I wasn't sure I was digging the Thunder Gun at first. Then, when the dealer was putting on my supercharger (good move since the warranty covered the new engine), he couldn't get the crank bolt out with his. Couldn't fit a 3/4" and had broke several big Snap-on breaker bars he'd borrowed using a long pipe. I finally got the Thunder Gun out of the back, told him to try it, and the bolt flew right out. :cheers: Told him to keep it as a tip (he treats me right and covers things he doesn't have to) and got another. Saw him the other day. Told me that most mechanics in his shop now have the Thunder Gun as he thinks it's hands down the best out there. Small enough to fit where the 3/4's can't, yet strong enough to get the job done. I keep this one in my truck all the time, as if I need it on the trail, I don't want to be let down.

I run the IR 2450L5 compressor (60gal @ 175 psi), with pure 1/2". Once you have this stuff, you will be amazed at how often you end up using it. Spend a few bucks now and get something that will last you for a LONG time. :D
 
I use a IR at home left over from when I wrenched for a living and CPs at school. Every once in a while i have to bring the IR in, but usually we can bust a tough bolt loose with a breaker bar. We no longer use the torque sticks and the CPs to tighten lug nuts down. They have proven to be unreliable. too many cars came back with loose lug nuts. Everything is torqued by hand now.
I also have an IR 3/8 and a CP 3/8 and 1/4. The IR can be dangerous as it will snap a small bolt, but can often outperform other 1/2 drives with a lot less wrist fatigue.
I did break the anvil in the IR, probably from a fall. IR sent me a new on for a pretty reasonable price and now it's like new again.
 
I am a cheap a$$ and got a Chicago electric 1/2" drive.

it works just fine for me!
 
It may be to late to chime in but... In 1/2", I have a fairly decent craftsmen. I use it at work all the time, works well. In 3/4" I have an IR. If I'm bustin big bolts, I want to make sure its going to work. What ever you get, make sure you oil it often.
BTW, if you want to spend some big coin, I have a 1/2" Cooper tools, Gardner/Denver air impact that is supposed to be the cats ass. Too nice for me to use, I'm going to have to sell it.
 
Anyone have the $89 62 piece set at Pep Boys. It has a wrench, hammer, grinder, socket and other items. Thinking of buying it to install a lift kit.

Ken
 
I don't like cheap no-name brand tools. Sometimes they are ok, but others they don't last worth sheeat.
I've got my dads tools from when he was 16. Most are Craftsman, and I still use every day, some of them are cheap jap tools and if I keep them they only get used for pounding and pressing, the chrome is gone and they are rusting and cheap.
Craftsmen, Stanley, and ACE brand tools are more than good enough for me, so thats what I buy.
 
Sounds like those tools are worth a lot more than just any quality tool. Unfortunatly for me, my Dad can't change a light bulb. My Mom was the one who fixed things. I still have her Hammer and I wouldn't trade it for a new one.

Ken
 

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