PM List

[Driley]

I am finally ordering the FSM this week and placing an order to cdan. Here is what I have done so far on 1994 LC w/185,000 miles:

-New Tires (Nokian Vativvas 265/75R16)
-CEL Code 71 (Checked EGR Modulator-Full Of Carbon-Cleaned But still code 71)
-Replaced Front Brake Pads & Bleed System
-Oil Change (Shell Rotella Syn 5w-40)
-Replace AC/Fan-Alt Belts
-Green Coolant From PO / Inspected All Hoses - All Look Fine Even PHH
-Checked Air Filter - Looked New
-Checked Front & Rear Diffs (Rear fluid looks good - front is black DS knuckle greasy)

Here is what I know I need to do:

-Tune Up (Cap / Rotor / Plugs)
-EGR (Start with modulator and move on from there)
-Front Axle Service (Will do when weather improves-Probably just drain diff and refill/possibly put more grease in knuckle-still searching for grease fitting/fill port-someone already informed me that there is not a fitting, just a hole or cover that is removed)
-Transmission Fluid Change (Probably Just Drain/Drop Pan/Refill with every oil change for a while)
-Shocks & Springs (I have read all I could find and will probably go with OEM shocks and OME springs-no lift)
-Replace rear quarter panel fender flare (removed by garage door opening -cruiserparts.net has them for ~$100.00 primed)

I hate to ask, but just want to know what items should I order from cdan to get through this list. The rig is running pretty good right now but just want to do as much as I can before I am forced to.

Thanks for any advice (I am reading old posts daily to gather info on all stated items above).

Riley

 

[Romer]

I
I hate to ask, but just want to know what items should I order from cdan to get through this list. The rig is running pretty good right now but just want to do as much as I can before I am forced to.
Riley

Parts for the following

- Tune Up (Cap / Rotor / Plugs)
-EGR (Start with modulator and move on from there)
-Front Axle Service (Will do when weather improves-Probably just drain diff and refill/possibly put more grease in knuckle-still searching for grease fitting/fill port-someone already informed me that there is not a fitting, just a hole or cover that is removed)

Also, might want to do the front rotors while you are doing the front axle.

Add:
PCV valve
Fuel Filter - Change when removing Starter to do contacts
Thermostat and O ring - Buy it and have on the shelf. Cheap and when you need it, you need it now
Buy a few extra OEM Oil Filters
Spark Plug Wires (since your doing the cap and rotor)
Rear axle rebuild kit. Much easier than the front. No Birfs and can do the rear axle in 2-3 hours
Starter Contacts


When you have the starter and Fuel filter out would be a great time to do the PHH, unless you plan on doing a Headgasket. At least get in there and look at it.

 

[Driley]

Thanks Ken! The PHH looked healthy 2 weeks ago. Is there a fuel filter under the vehicle (halfway between tank and engine) or is it near the PHH? I will have the FSM before I start on any of this so I will probably find my own answers.

Thanks again!

Riley

 

[Romer]

The starter, PHH and Fuel Filter are all in the same general area. Your FSM will come in very handy.

 

[reffug]

And so will a whole lot of patience.

 

[topend yobbo]

And money

 

[Driley]

Finally getting around to this...

I know that I asked this weeks ago, but have been dealing with other vehicles. I think I am finally ready to get started on some PM. Here is what I have done so far:

-Oil & Filter changed (Rotella Synth & OEM filter) ~ 5,000 miles ago
-Drive belts changed ~ 5,000 miles ago
-Replaced front brake pads & flushed brake fluid ~ 3,000 miles ago.
-Changed pcv valve, grommet ("Standard" brand - will replace with OEM a.s.a.p.) ~ 300 miles ago

-I have had a CEL since purchasing the LC a year ago (code 71). The modulator had some carbon build up. Cleaned it out but code came back on.

-I am going to change the oil & filter / drain & refill the transmission fluid / drain & refill the front differential fluid (any recommendation on diff fluid?) / pump some moly-graphite grease into the birfields (I really want to rebuild the front axle, but want to get the tune up stuff done before the snow starts).

-My list to cdan so far:

-OEM PCV & Hoses
-Distributor cap & rotor
-Spark plugs
-Fuel filter
-Started contacts
-Thermostat & O ring
-Ignition wires
-Air filter
-Oil filters
-Upper & lower radiator hoses
-EGR modulator (I have a green cap - original & dirty)
-PHH & clamps (original looks good, but will probably change it when I am in there)

Any additional items to add to the list?

Thanks,

Riley

Here are some engine photos (I plan to clean the engine while I am PMing).

edit: I have the FSM

 

[GeoRoss]

-I have had a CEL since purchasing the LC a year ago (code 71). The modulator had some carbon build up. Cleaned it out but code came back on.edit: I have the FSM

Try cleaning off the temp sensor which is on the EGR valve with steel wool. Also check that all the vacuum line ports in the throttle body are clear and that all the hoses and vacuum lines are clear.

If the CEL comes back, then start checking the modulator, VSV and EGR valve for good working order as per the FSM.

Ross

(former sufferer of the 71 code, 5000 miles and looking good )

 

[Driley]

Temp sensor location

I do not have the FSM here at work. Where is the temp sensor for the egr located?

I forgot to mention my LC has 192,000 miles currently.

 

[Sno bored]

I just picked up many of the same parts from Cruiserdan a couple of months ago, but I didn't use the OEM PHH. One of the guys on Mud has the PHH kit. Better quality hoses, and better clamps.

 

[Driley]

PHH

Found the link: http://www.1fzfephh.com/

Thanks,

Riley

 

[Driley]

EGR temp sensor location?

 

[GeoRoss]

EGR temp sensor location?

It is bolted to the EGR valve. The EGR valve is bolted to the throttle body.

Ross