Plug change

Joined
Dec 29, 2003
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Louisville, KY
For sh-its and giggles, I got a quote from my dealer to change out the plugs on my 100-----375.00 dollars!.

They state plugs run 160 and the rest is labor.

So, to you fellows that have changed out your plugs, why is it so labor intensive AND any procedures that you would recommend.

Thx.
 

Cruiser_Nerd

That 25 Guy.
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Removing that plastic doohicky from the top was a challenge. :flipoff2:

Seriously, I don't remember anything too awful hard or special about it. Make sure you have a spark plug socket that grips the plug so you can lower it in place. I usually put a little dielectric grease on the inside of the boot to make sure it doesn't bake on. OEM plugs.
 

Cruiser_Nerd

That 25 Guy.
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Joke......the silver plastic useless engine cover.....four bolts and it's gone........I believe.
 
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OK. I am with you. I thought you meant a plug cover or something.

How does the dealer get off with 2.5 hours of labor then?
 

marques

 
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Jan 14, 2005
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I can see how some dealer might charge $20 ea. for the fancy iridium plugs, but you should be able to find them for <$10 ea. It's not rocket science, but with the coil-on-plug setup, it takes a little longer than the more traditional distributor setup. Only 4 little nuts hold the top engine cover on, and from that point it's just a matter of removing each coil from over the plug, replacing the plug, and putting the coil back on. You should be done in about an hour if you take your time. Be carefull you don't let dirt or anything else fall into the plug holes. It might also be a good time to replace the PCV valve. You might need some little extensions and maybe some universal joint in addition to your plug socket, but again, it's not rocket science.
 

spressomon

glutton
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Did mine about 2-months ago...took all of an hour counting removal of the plastic engine cover and a heat shield on the DS of engine, plug install and reinstall of cover and shield. You will need 3/8" drive with a couple different extensions including, if I remember properly, a flex joint that will need to be used on 2 of the back plugs.

Looks like we are all in the wrong business eh...I'd love to do something as easy as change plugs in an LC for $300+ an hour?

FYI: Although others here might disagree I replaced my OEM plugs (at 70k...don't know if PO replaced them but doubt it based upon what they looked like) with Bosch 2-prong...and for what it's worth it starts better/quicker and has better power during acceleration...and plugs are only $4 each!
 
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Bosch 2 prong? Do you know the plug number?

From what I have gathered and read over the years, the main advantage of Iridium/Plat plugs is longevity due to resilience in the core, grounding tip and electrode.

The stock LC plugs are meant to last to 120k-I can attest to that and I am sure others can. But whether or not a new Iridium is better than a new Bosch? I doubt it-at least I doubt we can feel it/gain that much of a gas efficiency difference.
 

spressomon

glutton
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Juke,

They are Bosch Platinum 2 #4301. After I got this LC, with 69K on it, earlier this year I noticed it took longer than I thought it should to start. I pulled the plugs and found the iridium tips were a little worn looking and the ceramic insulators were somewhat more discolored than I thought they should have been given what I have read here about how long the OEM plugs are supposed to last. So I figured for about $30 what the heck. Well all I can say is the Bosch plugs work great...instant starting, better MPG and better power under load and less $$$ too. I have put about 4K on them so far with no change...
 

ff347

 
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spresso,
thanks for the plug #'s and the input! I was thinking before the usual summer vacation that i would do that. i have asked other people and the consensus is the same as yours. on a side note, i purchased my last truck from a 24 yr old bmw mechanic. he said that he could do most jobs in half the time they billed on and judging by the house he was building i think i believe him. where else is that allowed and legal, i think they have us all by the short and curlies! so i guess you by the manual and knock it out yourself!
 
Joined
Jan 10, 2005
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Jukelemon said:
Is the PCV readily accessible when the cover is off?
Yes, and be sure to pickup a new grommet for the PCV valve; it is sold separately. My old grommet came out in 2-3 pieces.
 
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Mar 17, 2005
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I also changed my plugs to the 2 prong bosch plugs, and they seem to work well. I did notice a drop in top end pull, but not that big of a deal since its my wifes car. Plugs are easy enough to DIY
 
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PCV Valve

I'm having a difficult time locating the PCV valve on my 100 series. Can someone post a snapshot with an arrow :confused: ??

And, yes, I removed the plastic cover :D

Thanks!
 

hoser

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I just grabbed this picture off the net. IIRC, the PCV is located in this vicinity. If you choose to replace the PCV grommet, I used a bent metal hanger (bent into a tight hook) and a small screwdriver--don't let the grommet fall in!
pcv.jpg
 

rph74

 
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Dec 24, 2003
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Springfield,MO
I used Bosch Platinums almost 25k ago. No problems here. Well worth the money savings. The only difference is that you have to change the plugs after 60k rather than 120k on the Iridiums. But since Bosch's cost less than half of the iridiums it's worth it. I believe I only paid like $2.xx each on mine.
 

hoser

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Well, it may be less than half the cost but it is also double the labor. Make mine Iridium, please. :)
 
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