Please help for a newbie. (1 Viewer)

[matt60/80]

You may want to check the intake manifold for carbon build up.

 

[Dragos80]

Did anybody mention window stickers yet?




What's your budget?
A cool $5000 would get you a supercharger (second hand).
If that's still not enough power dig a little deeper in your pocket and pull that $25K brick sitting there for a V8.

If you can't do that, drive backwards, it will give you such a rush you will think it actually drives very fast.

 

[Rifleman]

Just wait till you start climbing up a 7% grade, on a two lane road above 8000 feet, pulling a full camp trailer. That's the perfect time to explain to your wife why you need to spend all that money on a shiny new supercharger.

 

[ppc]

I would have the catalytic converter checked to make sure it is not blocked. On a stock truck you should be able to do better than 25 MPH unless you are loaded up with a bunch of really fat chicks and their luggage.

 

[flintknapper]

IF everything is working as it is supposed to be, you shouldn't be relegated to 25 mph even on the steepest roads.

I think some time spent 'checking' components and base-lining your Cruiser is in order.

I'd start with doing (or having done) a compression check of each cylinder. This will tell you whether or not you should even proceed.

Assuming good compression, I'd next... be certain I was getting good spark (I.E. new plug wires, Plugs, Cap & Rotor).

Then turn your attention to your fuel system. Check fuel pressure. If necessary, replace fuel filter, pump sock, check to see that all of your injectors are operating and that you have no leaks. The condition of your injectors can not be assessed short of removing them and having them flow tested, but you can check to see that all are receiving proper voltage and are 'cycling'.

Last, (but very important)....check your exhaust system. A compromised (restricted) exhaust system will definitely affect performance. I would check the Catalytic Converters for break down (plugged up) and look for heavy dents in the exhaust pipes or a restricted muffler.

Use premium fuel or an octane booster when you expect to be at higher elevations with steep inclines, you're going to be pushing your engine, no way around that. Don't be afraid to downshift and put your foot in it...a bit. Running it at 3500-4000 rpm for short periods is not going to hurt it.

Don't expect to 'accelerate' up steep hills, but you should be able to start up hills at a reasonable speed and 'maintain' that speed. The straight six in these rigs is a good and durable engine, but it is after all...a whopping 275 cu. in. so give your Cruiser a little 'wink' and enjoy the trip. You'll get there.

 

[2 E L O]

Trade your 80 in for a 100???

Part of the nostalgia of the 80 is that it’s gutless. Learn to love it!

 

[hj 60]

Smaller tires make a big difference for my hj60 gear pattern, maybe you can drive another model or go to a meeting and let others trash yours, if you are just v8 jeep talking get out

from sea level back up again with the boat and family, 1st gear was almost not enough.

5000 km without trouble and this road up almost made me use 4x4 low on rear axle: خرائط Google‏

 

[Gabriel 71]

50 shot of nitrous on the hills. That will pep the ole girl up. And prematurely speed up the death if the 1fz. Win win

 

[2fpower]

Supercharger solved my thirst for power.

 

[zona]

For starters, it sounds like you need to do a full tune-up, just to know where you stand. I don't know how steep these roads are, but you should be able to pull more than 25mph on all but the steepest paved CA roads.

I've seen this advice several places on 'mud. The manual specifically says to avoid high RPMs in 1st and 2nd gears for extended periods. I believe this is because the torque converter won't lock-up and could be damaged due to heat...?

I like the point--I've never read the manual--most 80 series owners run different types of oil, tires, etc., than the manual.

Some days I'll be in 1st and 2nd for several minutes or hours on a trail, this could be extended periods of time.

I travel from 1200' to 6000' for three years now a few times a month; I always drop it into 2nd gear on the long upward 5 degree + hills. Sometimes it's for 30 seconds sometimes it's for 4 or five minutes. Again, the most amount of RPM's are created when the rig is between 3800 and 4400rpms, so you're going to be fine even if you get to 4600.

I would do a tune up, and change some hoses on any new used vehicle...along with flush the blinker fluid.

Zona

 

[Tools R Us]

Just wait till you start climbing up a 7% grade, on a two lane road above 8000 feet, pulling a full camp trailer. That's the perfect time to explain to your wife why you need to spend all that money on a shiny new Sequoia.

FIFY

 

[zona]

How about anything to do with the exhaust to help get more power? So far the I have done the other things mentioned except for the timing advance. That’s what’s up next for me.

First things first young man...find the closest gerbil race track...break into any one of the dozen 100 series there...after almost passing out from Old Spice...open the glove box, behind the vanilla bean lotion, in front of the Pottery Barn gift card, against the grey-out hair remover, you will find the Mazda Miata faux leather gloves. Grab one.

I put a 2.5" exhaust to replace the 2" exhaust. This definitely gave me more horsepower because I paid for it and don't want to believe I wasted money.

Moreover, if someone questions my horsepower I go into 100 series owner theatrics mode and slap them with a Mazda Miata faux leather driving glove I stole from a 100 series owner in Scottsdale and challenge them to a duel for questioning the additional 20hp I've espoused. Luckily no one has died but I've used the hell out of that glove.


Zona

 

[LS1FJ40]

First things first young man...find the closest gerbil race track...break into any one of the dozen 100 series there...after almost passing out from Old Spice...open the glove box, behind the vanilla bean lotion, in front of the Pottery Barn gift card, against the grey-out hair remover, you will find the Mazda Miata faux leather gloves. Grab one.

I put a 2.5" exhaust to replace the 2" exhaust. This definitely gave me more horsepower because I paid for it and don't want to believe I wasted money.

Moreover, if someone questions my horsepower I go into 100 series owner theatrics mode and slap them with a Mazda Miata faux leather driving glove I stole from a 100 series owner in Scottsdale and challenge them to a duel for questioning the additional 20hp I've espoused. Luckily no one has died but I've used the hell out of that glove.


Zona

I’m dying...

Let me translate: No. There is no discernible HP gain from headers or anything exhaust related. Other than making sure your cats are clean and O2 sensors working properly and no leaks.

Everything you can possibly think of doing has been done. There is no magic $20 super HP gain.

I drove my worn out 93 to California and back, through the mountains of Utah, Wyoming, Nevada, andCalifornia. I drove it how others have stated in this thread. I was fully loaded down and had an ice fishing shack on my roof rack (equivalent in weight and size to a RTT). I had no problems going 45-50 up the steepest inclines.

Listen to the people on here. Be deliberate and methodical in your maintenance. And enjoy it for the glutinous pig that it is. You won’t win any 0-60 races but you will get there.

 

[Tools R Us]

...
I've seen this advice several places on 'mud. The manual specifically says to avoid high RPMs in 1st and 2nd gears for extended periods. I believe this is because the torque converter won't lock-up and could be damaged due to heat...?

Define "extended periods", is that hours, days? The torque converter unlocks when the throttle input is is significant, so is not going to be locked when climbing grades. With a delicate rig like your explaining, probably best to never travel in sand, likely to be in 1st and 2nd gears with big throttle input for "extended periods". Better to upgrade to that new Sequoia?

In no "abuse" condition have I ever noted transmission temp that I would be concerned about. The 1fz makes the most power at 4000ish rpm, when power is needed, use the shifter to find the proper gear to get there, or ride in the slow lane, better yet, only drive downhill.

 

[LS1FJ40]

Define "extended periods", is that hours, days? The torque converter unlocks when the throttle input is is significant, so is not going to be locked when climbing grades. With a delicate rig like your explaining, probably best to never travel in sand, likely to be in 1st and 2nd gears with big throttle input for "extended periods". Better to upgrade to that new Sequoia?

In no "abuse" condition have I ever noted transmission temp that I would be concerned about. The 1fz makes the most power at 4000ish rpm, when power is needed, use the shifter to find the proper gear to get there, or ride in the slow lane.

It’s a little unnerving driving at the 4000rpm mark the first few times. It doesn’t seem “right”. But you get over it and realize that people like @Tools R Us know what they are talking about. And it makes driving your 1FZ much more enjoyable.

 

[skhochay]

a paradoxical question you have : I have 3 LC 80,100,200 my 200 is 380hp and I am sill asking if I can get more hp.
so it is never enough nature of a human progress and greediness , 80 have plenty hp to take you skiing and get you back home . I had the same question too, until I install TRD SC and still not enough. - just greedy for power.

 

[gummycarbs]

Define "extended periods" ... With a delicate rig like your explaining,

Take it up with Toyota, not with me.

 

[Ghostrider I]

You want speed and performance? You have to downgrade to a Grand Cherokee R/T, or whatever that thing is called.

 

[ZackR]

Still waiting to hear which road you are maxed out at 25mph. 80 series cruisers are not fast but should be able to pull more than 25mph on all but the steepest grade.

 

[Ghostrider I]

Dump a can of Sea Foam in a near empty tank....lower the better. Next, replace plugs, wires, all filters. In addition, run Sea Foam through the plenum. After that is all said and done, fill the tank with 92 octane or better. Drive the rig gently until it gets to operating temperature, then drive the snot out of it on the highway.